Today, I embarked on a journey to explore the vibrant and lush Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi. Rising with the sun at 4:45 am, I embraced the promise of an exciting day in Bukittinggi. Swiftly changing into fresh attire, I fired up my laptop, connecting with a friend in Holland via a stable Skype connection. Our engaging 30-minute conversation left me invigorated, but soon after, an unexpected bout of illness struck, prompting frequent visits to the restroom. After a brief period of recovery, I opted to catch up on some much-needed rest.
By 9 am, my appetite beckoned for breakfast. Opting for a departure from the usual Eastern fare, I indulged in a classic pairing of toast and jam. Resolute in ensuring my stomach wouldn’t cast a shadow on today’s plans, as tomorrow marked my departure from Bukittinggi, I ventured out of the hotel around 11 am. Within moments, I reached Hello Guesthouse to securely stow away my backpack.
Benteng Fort de Kock
Freed from obligations, I turned my attention to the historic Benteng de Kock fortress. As I strolled away from my hostel, a group of enthusiastic schoolgirls approached me with questions, eager for my autograph and name on a piece of paper. The impromptu fanfare continued, with multiple snapshots taken. After the fourth group of children, I decided to capture a moment by taking a picture of them as well.
As I strolled around the fortress, I couldn’t help but notice the curious gazes from passersby. Undeterred, I pressed on. Attempting to leverage my student card for a discount at the entrance, I faced disappointment—they didn’t honor it. Despite the 10000 IDR fee, I pushed through, hoping my student status would count for something. Inside the fortress-cum-zoo, my path led me up a hill, passing by cages containing forlorn birds. Their subpar conditions tugged at my empathy. Reaching the summit, the fortress, though somewhat weathered, didn’t quite match the grandeur I had envisioned.
The Padri Wars
Enter the historical realm of Fort de Kock, rooted in the Padri wars—a clash between the Padri, proponents of an Islamic purist movement seeking to extend the reach of the Qur’an and Sharia across Sumatra, and the Adats, representing Minangkabau communities in the Padang region. Spanning from 1803 to 1837, the Adats sought Dutch assistance in 1821 against the Padris, offering to cede sovereignty in return. Responding to this plea, Fort de Kock was erected in 1825 atop a lofty hill, overseeing the region. This strategic stronghold gave rise to a settlement, eventually evolving into the vibrant city known as Bukittinggi. The war concluded in 1837 with the defeat of the Padris, solidifying Dutch influence in Indonesia.
Bukit Tinggi Park & Zoo
Opting for the opposite side of the hill, across the main road in Bukittinggi, I strolled over the picturesque bridge/gate, capturing its charm in a photograph. To my delight, the bridge doubled as an incredible vantage point, offering breathtaking views of Bukittinggi—made even more spectacular by the perfect weather. Bukittinggi is encircled by a trio of majestic volcanoes: Mount Merapi, soaring at 2885 meters, and the twin peaks of Mount Singgalang (2877 meters) and Mount Tandikat (2438 meters). Peering into the distance, I spotted Mount Singgalang, one of the three volcanoes encircling the city.
Crossing the bridge led me straight into the expansive section of the zoo. As I explored, I couldn’t ignore the curious gazes of many onlookers—more interested in me than the animals. The sight saddened me, especially considering the dilapidated living conditions these creatures endured. Having once interned at Artis, a zoo in Amsterdam, during my teenage years, the stark negligence here was painfully apparent. The image of the chained elephant, in particular, tugged at my heartstrings.
After a 40-minute exploration of the zoo, capturing moments with the animals, a fountain (for my friend in the Netherlands who has a fondness for fountains), and a distant Minangkabau building, I wrapped up my visit. Post-zoo adventure, I opted to stroll back to my hostel, with the next item on my agenda being the acquisition of a moped to delve into the scenic surroundings of Bukittinggi.
Relaxing
The hostel owner’s mother informed me that they were currently out of mopeds (she checked with the rental company on my behalf). Undeterred, I decided to venture out and find one on my own. The quest proved more challenging than I anticipated, consuming nearly two hours of my time. I inquired at hotels and cafes, but every encounter proved fruitless. At one point, a hotel owner offered to rent me her bike, but I declined. Her request for my passport as a deposit triggered a cautionary memory from Maguire, who shared a distressing tale about individuals in Bukit Lawang. They had rented a moped, handed over their passports as collateral, only to discover later that the moped owner had stolen the vehicle and denied any wrongdoing. The situation left them helpless, as the thief held their passports, despite clear evidence captured on security cameras.
Cafe Benteng de Kock
Choosing to abandon my moped quest, I opted for relaxation at a cafe conveniently located down the street from my hostel. The spot, named Cafe Benteng de Kock after the Dutch fortress I explored earlier, provided a cozy refuge. I indulged in some delectable fare, tapped away on my laptop to compile blog reports, and took the opportunity to browse the internet for further planning. A significant alteration to my travel schedule emerged, prompted by the flooding in Jakarta. Deciding to bypass Jakarta entirely, I charted a course for a direct flight to Yogyakarta instead.
Remaining at the restaurant until 4 pm, I then ventured to explore the panoramic views at Taman Panorama, conveniently just a 5-minute stroll from my hostel. En route, I encountered a friendly Indonesian couple, engaging in a lively chat from across the street, exchanging warm greetings with a vibrant energy. This locale brimmed with sociable and amiable individuals, creating an atmosphere I truly relished. Eventually, I captured a picture of this delightful encounter.
Sumatra’s hidden gem: Sianok Canyon
Strolling downhill across the street, the breathtaking outlook eluded me until I paid the entrance fee and passed through the main gate. Astonished, I ascended with wide-eyed wonder, greeted by an unexpected and immense surprise. The panoramic view of Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi left me in awe. Once more, that distinctive emotion surged within me—the sheer delight of encountering nature’s beauty unexpectedly.
Meandering along the boulevard adorned with beautiful paintings, the desire to purchase one as a souvenir tugged at me. However, the reality of another five months of travel restrained my impulse. Eventually, I arrived at a petite outlook tower. It was here that I encountered Fadhil, an Indonesian traveler spending a few days in Bukittinggi while visiting his sister with a friend. Against the backdrop of the majestic volcanoes Gunung Marapi and Gunung Singgalang, Fadhil graciously captured photographs of me. Nestled between these two peaks, Bukittinggi also shares proximity with Gunung Sago, although our view was limited to Marapi and Singgalang. Engaging in conversation, Fadhil, his girlfriend, and I decided to explore the Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi together.
The Japanese tunnel
The Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi boasts various attractions, among them the noteworthy Great Wall of Koto Kadang. Fadhil shared the intriguing tale of the Great Wall of Koto Kadang, a structure reminiscent of the Chinese Wall, albeit on a smaller scale. Fortunately, luck was on my side— the completion of the Great Wall of Koto Kadang had only transpired the previous year.
As we strolled down the road toward the valley, a sudden discovery caught my eye—the Japanese tunnel, also known as Lobang Jepang in Indonesia, dating back to the Second World War. Constructed with forced labor, this tunnel stretched over 400 meters in length and measured 2 meters in width. Intrigued, we decided to explore its depths before swiftly continuing our journey toward the Great Wall of Koto Kadang.
The Great Wall of Koto Kadang
Persisting in our journey, we ascended the Koto Kadang stairs, reaching the pinnacle where a quaint village nestled amidst lush trees welcomed us. En route, Fadhil taught me some Indonesian words, although I struggled to commit them to memory.
At the summit, we reveled in yet another breathtaking view of the Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi. This spot held a special place in my heart. Spending a delightful 30 minutes at Koto Kadang village, we eventually made the decision to return. I explained to Fadhil that I needed to secure a ticket for tomorrow, necessitating my departure. Both he and his girlfriend accompanied me back to the hostel. Fadhil hoped to find accommodation for his friend but, unfortunately, no rooms were available. A helpful individual at the hostel then guided me to the travel shop where I could make arrangements for my next journey.
The Hospitality Never Ends
Arriving at the travel agency right as dusk settled, I found the shop employee in the process of closing up. Confirming that it was Ayu Transport, I expressed my intention to book a trip. With a welcoming smile, he opened the doors and invited me to take a seat.
Thankfully, I made it just in time. The person opening the door was slender and appeared quite young. Although he didn’t speak English, we managed to communicate effectively using written notes, a map, and a myriad of gestures. Eventually, I was informed that I needed to be there the following morning at 8 am. The interaction through sign language and drawings turned out to be a surprisingly amusing and peculiar experience. It brought back memories of my initial day in Banda Aceh when I attempted to inquire about my hotel’s closing time.
Subsequently, I needed to return to Jalan Yani, and the gentleman took it upon himself to ensure my safety. Treating me with an unexpected level of care, he held my hand like a guardian, guiding me across the street. With a raised hand, he motioned for cars to slow down and safely led me to the minivan, just 200 meters down the road. Despite finding the situation somewhat amusing, I appreciated the remarkable kindness of the people in Bukittinggi, which continued to pleasantly surprise me.
Conversations at Cafe Bentang de Kock
Content with the day’s adventures at the Sianok Canyon in Bukittinggi, I returned to my hostel. At Cafe Bentang de Kock, a delightful spot with delectable food, pleasant music, and excellent service, I continued to unwind. Engaging in conversation with the owner, I learned that the cafe had recently opened. He shared his aspirations to transform it into a hub for live acoustic music. Enthusiastically, I expressed my thoughts about the cafe, disclosing my next destination. Upon his request, I provided my email address, and he promised to send me information about the place the next morning. Grateful, I bid him farewell and made my way back to the hostel around 10:45 pm, promptly heading to bed.
