Today’s plan was to explore a hidden paradise destination: Pulau Weh or Sabang Island. Woke up early, had breakfast at the hotel—a plate with cold rice mixed with unidentified meat. The breakfast was enjoyable but exceptionally spicy. The cab driver arrived at 8:30 am.
Famous at Port Ulee Lheue
In just 15 minutes, he took me to the Ulee Lheue port, where many people stared and smiled at me as I exited the car. I initially thought yesterday’s encounters of people smiling at me and wanting to shake my hand were isolated incidents, but today proved otherwise. As I approached the queue near the ticket booth, the man inside signaled for me to skip the line and come directly to the front. I genuinely felt like a celebrity, with every local now gathered around me.
At the booth, I bought a ticket, ensuring I paid the standard price like everyone else. Having heard stories, I was cautious about potential scams. I paid 75,000 IDR, approximately €4.70, for the express ferry, as the cheaper seats (priced at 60,000 IDR) were already sold out.
As I wrote my name on the ticket, a crowd of curious onlookers gathered, peeking over my shoulder to see what I was writing. In unison, about twenty people attempted to pronounce my name: ‘Martinnn,’ they exclaimed. I chuckled and pronounced it in the Dutch way. One man inquired about my origin, and I replied with “Belanda,” the Indonesian word for the Netherlands.
The Cab Driver
As I approached the boat, two Indonesian men intercepted me for a conversation. One of them was a highly charismatic taxi driver. He expressed his eagerness to pick me up from the port and offered transport upon my return to Banda Aceh. Despite my skepticism about the feasibility with my backpack, the man believed in miracles. He shared his phone details with me, and I graciously accepted.
I didn’t intend to hire a moped-taxi upon my return to the port in Banda Aceh. As I waited for the ferry, I attracted numerous curious glances. A man approached me and requested to take a photo together. I agreed, marking my first picture with a local, yet it foreshadowed many more to come during my stay in Indonesia.
The ferry journey to Pulau Weh took 45 minutes, during which they screened “The Avengers.” I had already watched the movie. Many Indonesians were fixated on the screen, but the 2-hour duration was too lengthy for the crossing. I chuckled when I realized the movie was fast-forwarded to all the action scenes. Quite ridiculous.
Arrival at Sabang island
Upon reaching Balohan port in Pulau Weh, I opted for a becak taxi. Another young guy hopped on the back of the becak taxi, while I sat in the cart. Since I hadn’t booked accommodation for the day, I decided to head to Ibioh and search for a hostel or bungalow there. Ibioh is a locality where many locals reside. I came across positive online reviews for O’Ong’s Inn, so I decided to explore it.
The young guy who shared the taxi with me was Danny, a 20-year-old Indonesian from Solo (East Java), studying communication sciences. While Danny’s goal for Pulau Weh was to see the zero-kilometer monument, I later discovered he had no knowledge of the island’s beautiful waters and beaches, just as I was unaware of the monument. We had a chat during the ride to Ibioh beach, and eventually, we decided to split the cost of a bungalow. After a 40-minute journey, we reached Ibioh, situated in the northwest of Pulau Weh.
Ibioh Beach
Ibioh presented itself as a tiny village, with houses and bungalows lining the small bay. When Danny and I inquired at O’ong’s, the only available room was a subpar, dodgy accommodation priced at 30,000 IDR per night. It turned out to be a small wooden room with a musty bed.
I aimed for a better accommodation, so we proceeded to Ibioh Inn. Although the standard room there wasn’t satisfactory, I persuaded Danny to opt for a superior one, even though it was pricier. We moved our backpacks from O’ong’s to the reception at Ibioh Inn, where we had to wait an hour for our room to be prepared. Despite the wait, our time at the reception was anything but boring, as we lounged in the sun and took pictures.
By 1 pm, our room was prepared, prompting us to inspect it. While it was tidy and acceptable, I personally felt it didn’t justify the expense. Electricity would only be accessible starting at 4 pm, and the wifi remained non-functional. Despite these drawbacks, the balcony’s view and the presence of a hammock were appealing.
Moped Rental
Situated just 300 meters from Ibioh Beach, our lodging provided a convenient base. Once we had organized our belongings, Danny and I returned to the main beach with the intention of securing a moped. Our plan was to visit the zero kilometer monument, as Danny had to depart from Pulau Weh the following day.
Unfortunately, the moped rental shop was on the verge of closing. Ultimately, we opted against renting, deeming it not worthwhile for the limited remaining rental time. I assured Danny that we could arrange it early the next morning. Having Danny as a companion proved advantageous as I gained valuable insights into Indonesia, and he served as an excellent interpreter. Returning to the reception, I enjoyed a late lunch, engaging in conversation and relaxation until well past twilight.
My photos are pale in comparison to the glistening moonlight on the water. It was truly an incredible experience, though unfortunately, my camera couldn’t capture it perfectly.
Dinner at Yulia’s place
Danny and I decided to have dinner at Yulia’s place, located just 50 meters away from Ibioh Inn. I opted for a delightful serving of chicken curry, which had a mild spice level. The dish was delicious, and I was pleased to find some carrots on my plate.
I teased Danny about the waitress, suggesting he should marry her so I could visit them on Pulau Weh for free in the future. However, Danny preferred a girl with a headscarf as he is Muslim. After some more conversation, we headed back to the bungalow. Tomorrow morning, we planned to go to the moped shop early since our check-out time was 11 am, and we still wanted to visit the zero kilometer monument.
