Despite setting my alarm for 9 am, I found myself awake around 7 am, ready to embark on a visit to Pura Gunung Kawi, a temple that awaited exploration. While my room seemed familiar, the distinct feature of being on the fourth floor was an instant reminder of the unforgettable events from the previous evening. After a dramatic encounter with a colossal black spider, I made the decision to switch rooms (yes, you read that correctly, no shame here, and no, I’m not one to shy away – you weren’t there!). Although I once held a tarantula at the age of 18 in the Artis zoo, proving I’m not plagued by arachnophobia, the monstrous and menacing spider on the wall yesterday was an exception. Unfortunately, I have no photographic evidence to document this peculiar encounter.
Sleeping In
Armed with my camera, I began the day by capturing the stunning view I now enjoyed, all courtesy of an unexpected encounter with a spider! To add to the surprises, I discovered that I now had a functional refrigerator.
I went back to bed, feeling a bit drowsy, knowing that my alarm was set for 9 am. However, I ended up oversleeping, and it was around 10:30 am when I was awakened by some noise. Housekeeping had arrived, knocking loudly on my door, calling out ‘Mr. Splinter!’ In a hurry, I grabbed some clothes, opened the door, and apologized. They assured me they would return later. After a refreshing shower and teeth brushing, I pondered how to shape the rest of my day.
I strolled outside the hotel building, capturing moments of the resort with my camera. This place held a special significance for me due to its remarkable price-to-quality ratio and the welcoming staff. A particular highlight was a conversation I had with one of the employees the previous evening, a young man named Nura. Despite appearing much younger, Nura was actually 18 years old, and we shared a playful exchange about his youthful looks. He mentioned he had three more years of training before completing his graduation at this establishment.
Before 3 pm, I had to arrange for a new moped as my current rental from the resort was due to expire. Unfortunately, the resort’s moped was too costly at 70k IDR per day, and even when considering a multi-day rental, they couldn’t offer a more affordable rate. Luckily, the man who handled my laundry yesterday had recommended a nearby rental shop close to my hotel. I planned to visit the shop in the afternoon.
A New Plan
Last night, I carefully crafted a plan for today, but it unraveled when I overslept. Now, compelled to adjust my itinerary, I opted for a visit to something nearby. Pura Gunung Kawi caught my attention with favorable online reviews and the promise of natural surroundings around the temple, which intrigued me.
The journey from the resort to the temple proved straightforward, as it was situated northeast of Ubud and just a 20-minute ride by moped. My orientation skills were sharp, having explored Gianyar yesterday and studied the map. Familiarity with the area heightened my appreciation for it, providing a sense of direction and confidence in navigating. Additionally, the locals seemed to appreciate the Balinese words I had picked up from Ena during my time in Lovina.
Utilizing phrases like ‘matur suksumo’ to express gratitude and ‘Om Swastyastu‘ for well wishes, I experienced genuine smiles and joyful waves from the kind people I met. This sincerity endeared me to the locals, a stark contrast to the artificial interactions in places like Kuta or Lovina. While I understand that Bali’s residents need to make a living, I couldn’t stand the artificial ten-minute small talks that inevitably led to offers for mopeds or tours.
Towards Pura Gunung Kawi
Within 20 minutes, I reached the parking lot of Pura Gunung Kawi temple. I handed the parking attendant 2000 IDR, and suddenly, a woman rushed over, handing me a sarong. She seized my arm, pulling me towards her shop with undeniable vigor. She was anything but shy, incredibly assertive. I attempted to resist her pull, but my resistance only fueled her persistence.
Finally, I found myself ensnared in one of those tourist traps. The persistent woman insisted on selling me various items, including a t-shirt, a sarong, and a ribbon for the sarong, all totaling 350,000 IDR. Firmly expressing my disinterest, she began haggling with me, asking for my offer. Despite not needing any of the items, I suggested 30,000 IDR. She countered with 200,000 IDR, still too expensive in my eyes. Eventually, we settled on 100,000 IDR. The woman seemed disappointed and sad, sharing that there weren’t many tourists around Pura Gunung Kawi these days. Moved by pity, I reluctantly made the purchase, feeling like I didn’t need this hassle.
I expressed gratitude for the t-shirt, sarong, and ribbon, relieved that I now had my own sarong and wouldn’t need to rent one at other temples. As I continued, I encountered numerous tourist shops attempting to draw me in. Politely declining in the Balinese language, I confidently moved past them. Later, I bought a coke zero for 10,000 IDR and descended a long stairway, greeted by a breathtaking view ahead of me.
The rice fields presented a captivating sight, vibrant and gleaming with lush greenery, instantly endearing me to this place. Descending further, I reached the entrance gate of Pura Gunung Kawi. Opting to explore the right side first, I encountered a few tourists, roughly around 10. It felt surreal—almost deserted! In certain areas of the temple, I found myself alone, relishing the solitude. I grasped the significance of building a temple in such a serene location. The tranquil murmur of the nearby river added to the calming ambiance. Occasionally, I paused, sat down, and immersed myself in the study of the intricate sculptures.
Rock Carved Shrines
The Pakerisan river gracefully divided the temple grounds, with intricately carved shrines adorning both sides of its banks. Immersed in the natural beauty, I marveled at the solitude, unable to fathom having Pura Gunung Kawi all to myself. This historical site, dating back to the 11th century, is a temple and funerary complex featuring ten remarkable 7-meter tall shrines, intricately cut into the rock faces. These shrines serve as a tribute to the ruling family of Bali from that era. What captivated me most was the seamless integration of the temple with the lush green jungle surroundings, accentuated by the presence of the Pakerisan river, creating a stunning green oasis.
Amidst tiny waterfalls, lush rice fields, swaying palm trees, and the soft hum of insects, this place exuded a magical and spiritual aura. It baffled me that there were so few tourists here, but I secretly relished the solitude. The experience was reminiscent of strolling through an abandoned set of an Indiana Jones movie. Intrigued, I retraced my steps and ventured towards the last unexplored section of the premises, a road to the left just after the bridge. It turned out to be another delightful discovery.
After ascending the stairs, I examined the shrines. Currently undergoing renovation, the temple held a captivating aura. Descending the stairs, I spotted some locals near a hut. Intrigued, I bought Indonesian lychees from them for 2000 IDR and joined them. Engaging in brief small talk with one who spoke some English, I enjoyed the lychees before bidding farewell. In total, my visit to the temple lasted over an hour.
Always Purchase From the Locals
I swiftly returned to Ubud. Yesterday’s attempt to locate the rental shop proved futile, but today I succeeded. Despite the locals’ lack of knowledge about the company, I drove down the same street and finally spotted the shop! It was a small shack with two mopeds for rent in front of it. Parking my scooter, I approached the shop, and a man eagerly greeted me. Expressing my desire to rent a moped for four days, I negotiated a rate of 40,000 IDR per day, much to his delight.
The man expressed his gratitude and apologized for his English, which he considered not that good. I reassured him that his kindness and hospitality meant more to me than language proficiency. Inside, his wife greeted me and introduced herself. She, too, apologized for her English, but I assured them there was no need to apologize. I emphasized that I should be the one learning Bahasa Indonesia. Their son joined us, and in just five minutes, we completed the paperwork. They agreed to deliver the scooter to Suly Resort & Spa at 4 pm. I conveyed my thanks and wished them luck in Balinese. I felt pleased with my decision to support these local entrepreneurs, sensing that the income was significant for them.
Unveiling Balconies
I rode to the laundry shop to check on my clothes. The woman searched for my laundry, but it wasn’t ready yet. I assured her it was fine, and I would return another day. Expressing my gratitude, I left. Back at the resort, I parked the moped and handed the key to the reception. With an hour to spare, I headed to the hotel building and took the elevator to the 4th floor.
As I walked to the end of the hall, I discovered a balcony, unbeknownst to me. Captivated by the view, I decided to take a photograph. Afterward, I entered my room and took some final pictures. My affection for Ubud, its people, this resort, and its staff deepened. Life felt exceptionally good here.
Ubud Town Center
In the afternoon, I planned to visit the post office to mail some postcards. The moped was delivered at 4:45 pm, with the guy offering apologies, which was fine with me. Heading towards the center of Ubud, I intended to reach the post office. Unfortunately, I arrived a bit late, around 5 pm. Initially, I couldn’t locate the post office, so seeking guidance, I approached two locals outside a supermarket. They pointed out it was just 15 meters away. I parked my moped in front of the supermarket, next to the helpful locals. Retrieving the postcards from the moped locker, I walked to the post office, only to find it closed.
A Key Misstep
I returned to my moped and noticed my key was not inside my pocket. A jolt of fear surged through my body. “Please don’t let this be true,” I thought to myself. Everything was going fine on this world journey up until now. The man who had provided directions earlier started a lecture, and it became evident that he had my key. “In Denpasar, your moped would be stolen by now; you must be careful, my friend,” he cautioned.
Acknowledging my lapse in judgment for leaving the key in the locker, I realized this brief moment could have had serious consequences. I vowed to be more cautious, even though I had budgeted for emergencies. “If someone stole this moped, you would have to pay 10 million because you don’t have insurance,” the man remarked. He was right. Expressing gratitude, I thanked him multiple times, retrieved my key, and wished him and his friend good luck.
Today, I pondered my regrettable oversight repeatedly, resolving that this would be the last instance of forgetting a key. Back at the hotel, I dedicated time to working on some articles. By 8 pm, I enjoyed a dinner of chicken with pasta and grilled vegetables, accompanied by a delightful lime juice. Later in the evening, I ventured to the center of Ubud to purchase a snack and a large bottle of cola zero for my refrigerator. Engaging in further article writing and casual chats with friends via Facebook, I eventually retired to bed around 2 am.
