Today marks the long-awaited day when I embark on the renowned shark dive in Fiji. My alarm roused me at 7:50 am, prompting me to begin my day. After a quick teeth-brushing session, I headed to the dive shop, conveniently located just 30 meters from the dormitory. While I had hoped for an available spot, my plan was to head back to bed if it wasn’t possible. Luckily, fortune favored me—some divers were absent, and I secured a spot to join them.
Breakfast Before the Dive
Having pre-ordered my breakfast at the restaurant and informed them of my upcoming dive, I swiftly received some toast with jam. In just 5 minutes, I finished my breakfast and returned to the shop. There, I collected a wetsuit, mask, and fins. The crew had efficiently loaded all the necessary gear onto the boat, and nearly everyone was prepared to set sail. Among the group were an Australian couple, another pair, the gentleman I had spotted in the lounge area the day before, and, of course, the crew.
Oceanus Resort was situated beside a small river that flowed into the Coral Sea. As we embarked on the boat, I took the opportunity to inquire about scuba diving procedures. It had been a while since I obtained my PADI certification, and I wanted to ensure I was familiar with all the signals. Since our group had an odd number of people, I joined a trio of buddies. In diving, a buddy assists you underwater and with your gear above. I approached one of my buddies, Steve, and asked if he could capture some pictures and a brief video of me using his GoPro. While I initially considered renting one from the dive shop, I wasn’t certain about availability, as mentioned by Jacob in the Yasawas. Surprisingly, Steve declined any payment for his assistance, even though I was willing to offer 50 dollars for the favor.
A Daring Debut
“Is this your first official dive?” inquired the Australian woman. “Indeed, I earned my license in Bali three months ago,” I replied. Laughter erupted from both the lady and the group. “Quite daring to go for a shark dive in Fiji right after obtaining your PADI license,” she remarked. Joining in their amusement, I acknowledged the audacity of the choice. My initial plan was to dive in the Great Barrier Reef, but unforeseen issues with car hire in Cairns thwarted those plans. While it remained on my bucket list, I contemplated saving the experience for another chapter in my life.
After a 20-minute boat ride, we reached our dive spot. I requested Steve to keep an eye on me. Unlike Bali, I didn’t have a snorkel, but it wasn’t a concern. Following the lead of some others, I jumped into the water and descended. It took a moment to readjust. While diving with the group, I felt an intense pressure on my ears, more severe than anything I had encountered before. In Bali, I found the nose-clearing technique challenging, always relying on the swallow technique for better results. As I submerged, two crew members noticed my struggle and added more weight, assuming buoyancy issues. Despite their misconception, my buoyancy was fine. After clearing my ears, I descended further, joining the others already captivated by the underwater spectacle.
Dancing Fish and Sharks in the Deep
Large schools of diverse fish swarmed in every direction during our shark dive in Fiji, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. It was astonishing. Initially, I assumed the sharks would intimidate and disperse them, but Steve later informed me that the fish were also there for the feeding. The crew had submerged two containers filled with food, and, like everyone else, I patiently waited behind the designated rope line, observing the underwater show.
Approximately five bull sharks gracefully navigated the waters. Despite their close proximity, they appeared somewhat apprehensive. The dive shop owner clarified that, surprisingly, the sharks were more afraid of us. While naturally curious, they perceived us as potential predators and were wary of the bubbles we produced. Another species of shark, possibly the nurse shark, exhibited a keen interest. Unlike the bull sharks, they didn’t always swim amidst the large school of fish but occasionally trailed behind us, following the rope.
A Thrilling Encounter Beyond the Cage
I never felt in danger; it was evident that the bull sharks were more wary of us. They approached the crew members fearlessly, even eating from their hands. Certain crew members ventured into the midst of the fish swarm, with some sharks daringly coming very close. A quick, gentle slap on the shark’s side by the crew member, and the shark would swiftly dart away. I was thoroughly captivated by the experience; it was truly amazing. While Australia offers cage dives with sharks, this unencumbered interaction in Fiji was undoubtedly much cooler!
Steve captured some stunning photos during our shark dive in Fiji, including a couple featuring me (first two above). Being the first to return to the boat as my tank approached empty, I signaled Steve about my oxygen levels. He, in turn, signaled one of the crew members. Following their direction, I made a safety stop at the rope, a crucial practice to allow nitrogen to exit the body post-dive. After approximately 3 minutes, I ascended. Upon returning to the ship, I experienced some discomfort in my ears, particularly the right one, leading to temporary hearing impairment.
Spirited Legacy of Steve Irwin
After 10 minutes, everyone else joined us on the boat, signaling a break. Initially thinking we’d only have one dive, I was pleasantly surprised to learn there was another session planned. However, we had to wait an hour for the nitrogen to leave our bodies before the second dive. During the break, the shop owner shared an amusing story about Steve Irwin, who had also dived at the location. Despite being advised not to follow the bull sharks too closely and just observe, as soon as they submerged, Steve Irwin got excited and started following them, prompting a good-natured chuckle from everyone. The dive shop owner gestured for him to return and simply observe. It was a testament to Steve Irwin’s vibrant personality, described as just like he was on camera—always enthusiastic and brimming with energy.
Sharks at the Shark Dive
He provided insights into the species we encountered—Nurse sharks, Lemon sharks, and Bull sharks. According to him, the same group of Bull sharks frequented the area consistently. Occasionally, a Tiger shark might make an appearance for the feeding, causing the Bull sharks to keep their distance. Despite their considerable size, the idea of a Tiger shark was mind-boggling to me. Unfortunately, the Great White sharks were absent, as they prefer temperate waters, unlike the warmer ones around Fiji. Addressing concerns, the dive shop owner emphasized that no diver had ever been fatally attacked by sharks underwater. While there were instances of fatalities on the surface, underwater encounters posed minimal risks.
Our Second Dive to the Sharks
The second shark dive in Fiji was equally thrilling, featuring an increased number of sharks drawn by the lingering scent of the previous feeding. I reveled in the experience, especially since this time there was no safety rope—just some coral formations to grasp onto. We found ourselves at a depth of around 15 meters, in contrast to the previous dive’s 25 meters, explaining the ear discomfort I had experienced, amusingly. Technically, my diving license allowed me to go up to 18 meters, and deep water dives weren’t even permitted.
After the feeding session concluded, we explored the area, discovering a fascinating shipwreck adorned with coral. Following that, I adhered to the safety stop at the rope before resurfacing. Feeling a bit fatigued from the dives, I found myself in need of a bathroom break akin to a pregnant woman. Twenty minutes later, we returned to the shop. The entire experience was truly remarkable, and I deemed the 325 FJD expenditure entirely worthwhile. Notably, a portion of the funds contributed to supporting local villagers, discouraging fishing in the protected marine area.
Dorm Antics and Dive Talks
I returned to the dorm and took a shower, expecting a bit more warmth for the 35 FJD I paid for accommodation. To my surprise, the water was cold. Shortly after my chilly shower, the couple entered the dorm. With a smile, I remarked, “You guys were just in time; the bathroom door can’t be locked. Otherwise, you would’ve caught an unintentional glimpse of me, not a pleasant sight.” Introductions followed, and they identified themselves as Kevin and Laura from Canada. Engaging in conversation, they inquired about my dive, and I shared all the details. Unsure about whether they should go on the dive, I encouraged them to speak with Steve. Given that it was my first real dive, I explained I couldn’t compare it with others. Steve, having extensive diving experience worldwide, had just completed five shark dives in a row, making him a reliable source for their decision-making.
In the afternoon, I settled into the lounge area beside the pool, engrossed in my book. Later, I transitioned to my laptop, gearing up to upload some fresh content to my website. Kevin and Laura eventually joined me, equipped with beers and snacks. Their dinner invitation was warmly received, and I happily agreed. Opting for a later dinner, I nibbled on some chocolate in the meantime. Steve also joined our gathering, presenting me with the incredible videos and pictures from the shark dive in Fiji. They were truly remarkable, and I was grateful for the chance to meet Steve. As we all enjoyed the company, Steve treated us to additional videos, including footage of a massive tiger shark that had been spotted two days prior. The wish for its appearance today lingered, but then again, the presence of bull sharks, with their sheer numbers, held its own unique allure.
Dinner at Oceanus
Kevin and Laura preferred dining at the restaurant rather than venturing into the city, a choice I readily embraced. However, I found myself in a bit of a cash crunch. To resolve this, I approached the restaurant and inquired if they could put my meal on a tab, to which they agreed. Come evening, around 8 pm, we gathered at the lounge area. I opted for a delectable beef burrito with french fries.
As we enjoyed our meals, our conversation delved into accents, touching on the nuances of English accents and the distinctive Canadian twang. I found it amusing how Kevin playfully teased Laura by intentionally pronouncing words like ‘Aboot’ for ‘about’ and ‘Tamarrow’ for ‘tomorrow.’ Inspired by this banter, I decided to embrace the challenge and try my hand at mimicking the Canadian accent the following day.
I thoroughly enjoyed the company of these individuals. Originally planning to leave this afternoon, I found myself extending my stay, largely influenced by the delightful interactions with Kevin and Laura.
More New People
Later in the day, I had the pleasure of meeting another couple from the UK, Chris and Sarah, who happened to be medical students. Having recently completed a three-week internship in Vanua Levu, the second-largest island in Fiji, they shared that the experience was markedly different from the main island, with locals exuding more warmth and smiles. It resonated with my experiences in Indonesia, and I eagerly shared my observations with them. Interestingly, Sarah was born in Banda Aceh and expressed her desire to visit there someday. I handed them my website card, encouraging them to explore more about it at their leisure.
At approximately 11 pm, we collectively decided to call it a night. Steve was scheduled to depart the following morning, while Kevin and Laura were gearing up for their shark dive. As for Chris and Sarah, their plans leaned toward Suva, although they hadn’t finalized their decision yet.
The next day, I planned to depart Pacific Harbour and drive back in the direction of Nadi, approximately an hour away. The exact time of my departure was yet to be determined.
