Today, my plan was to ferry back to Banda Aceh, perhaps making it in time for a visit to the Raya Baiturrahman Mosque. I stirred around 5:45 am, snug in my spacious king-size bed. I couldn’t help but think about how much I would miss this resort. Freddies Santai Sumurtiga had surpassed my expectations—it truly lived up to the glowing online reviews.
Departure
Following my morning shower, I organized my backpack. I found myself among the few early risers enjoying breakfast in the restaurant (they offered an early breakfast for those departing to Banda Aceh). The attentive staff at Freddy’s assisted me in arranging the taxi and securing the boat ticket. Traveling to Banda Aceh in this hassle-free manner made me feel at ease—I didn’t have to manage a single thing. The ferry departed from Balohan port at 8 am, and an hour later, we docked at the Banda Aceh port.
Upon disembarking from the ferry, a swarm of ten taxi drivers flocked towards me. I declined those on mopeds and negotiated a fare with drivers of larger vehicles. In the end, I opted for a becak to Hotel Medan from the port, paying approximately 30,000 IDR. The becak driver, who went by the name Little John, was a petite and charismatic man with a wealth of stories about Indonesia and the tourists who visit. He proudly declared himself as the sole taxi driver with onboard WiFi.
Living on the Edge
Personally, I found the WiFi offer a bit excessive and not entirely trustworthy—I wasn’t willing to risk using my laptop or mobile phone during the bumpy ride in the somewhat rickety becak. Uncertain about the roads in Banda Aceh, we passed by my previous hotel, realizing it was situated on one of the main roads. Eventually, we reached the heart of Banda Aceh, where my new comfortable abode awaited at Hotel Medan. Unable to secure a reservation for Hotel Medan at Freddies, I decided to take a chance. This marked the first day of my journey where I ventured without a booking, fortunately finding available rooms. I first inspected a standard room, which seemed ideal both in terms of comfort and price. As a downpour began outside, I settled in and spent a relaxing time in my room.
In the afternoon, the rain subsided, prompting me to leave the Medan hotel. I wandered around the area, exploring various shops. Although everyone smiled, I was still adjusting to the attention. It’s a bit unnerving to browse through stores when everyone’s gaze is fixed on you. Numerous taxi drivers on the street inquired if I needed a becak, but I politely declined their offers. Continuing my leisurely stroll, I eventually caught sight of the Raya Baiturrahman Mosque by the river. I decided to visit it later, but first, I needed to return to the hotel to plan some things online.
Hotel Medan
Hotel Medan exceeded my expectations! It aligned with my budget, and the room featured amenities like warm water, a Western-style toilet, and a modern shower. However, I felt a bit uneasy about the safety of my credit cards, money, and passport, as there was no safe in the room. Choosing to trust the hotel’s cleaning staff, I placed my valuables in the desk drawer, concealing them under a stack of magazines already present.
The Raya Baiturrahman Mosque
Half an hour later, I exited my room and returned to the Raya Baiturrahman Mosque. Remarkably, it stands as one of the few structures in Banda Aceh that withstood the devastation of the 2004 Boxing Day tsunami. The initial section of the mosque was constructed by the Dutch in 1881 as a gesture of reconciliation, following the destruction of the original Raya Baiturrahman Mosque during the Aceh Wars. Subsequently, Banda Aceh renovated and extended the mosque, adding supplementary wings in the years that followed.
Upon reaching the mosque, I initially thought I needed to change clothes, but the man assured me I could enter as I was. The individuals in the courtyard greeted me with smiles and politeness. One man inquired about my origin, and upon learning I was from the Netherlands, he became excited and invited me to follow him. Though a bit nervous, I complied. He led me to a stone with an inscription, detailing the Dutch involvement in the construction of the Raya Baiturrahman Mosque.
I spent about 20 minutes exploring the area around the mosque before returning to my hotel. In my room, boredom set in, primarily because I wasn’t familiar with the city or even the neighborhood surrounding the hotel. At 5 pm, a belated idea crossed my mind—something I should have done upon arrival: ask for a map at the reception. Despite my initial skepticism, they indeed had one! I was handed a large, whimsical tourist map featuring all the highlights of Banda Aceh.
Kerkhof Peucut (cemetery)
The Kerkhof, a Dutch cemetery in Banda Aceh, was a 30-minute walk from my hotel, and I was keen to explore it. Situated beside the Aceh Tsunami Museum, which was closed today, I opted to forgo a becak ride this time, desiring to experience the city, its streets, and shops on my own. Upon reaching the cemetery, I struggled to locate the entrance. As dusk settled in, I eventually found it, only to realize that the cemetery was closed. I snapped a photo through the fence and decided to return the next day.
Dinner at a Restaurant
I hailed a becak driver in that neighborhood to return to the hotel since it was a 20-minute walk away. Back at the Medan hotel, I inquired about a good place to eat. The person at the front desk marked some recommended locations on the map I provided. Within fifteen minutes, I found myself at a cozy local restaurant, just a five-minute stroll from the hotel.
As expected, upon entering the restaurant, numerous locals paused from their meals to glance at me. The attention was amusing, giving me a fleeting sense of celebrity. That evening, I sampled various types of food, and while I couldn’t identify everything I ate, it all tasted delicious. The experience made me feel like a celebrity, with numerous stares and smiles, even from the waiters serving me.
Later that evening, I tuned in to watch a movie on television (The Day After Tomorrow). Suddenly, the channel got changed or deleted (I don’t know why), prompting me to decide to call it a night and go to sleep.
