Today’s escapade would guide me to Fox Glacier. Rising with the sun at the Boundary Creek Campsite, a cozy spot nestled 30 kilometers north of the serene Lake Wanaka, I relished in a night of rejuvenating sleep. The campsite, a hidden gem, was blissfully free of the usual morning hustle.
Waking Up to the Serenity
Venturing towards the toilet block, I was pleasantly surprised to find it not only clean but boasting the luxury of flushing toilets – a camper’s dream. Now, I’ve endured seven months working on a neurology ward, facing odors that could make a skunk blush. Yet, the open-air toilets I’ve encountered take ‘unpleasant’ to a whole new level. It’s as if time stands still in there, with the pee and poo forming a dubious alliance that lasts for months. But let’s not get bogged down in the aromatic details. Back to the main event!
Greeted by the morning sun, I sprang into action, camera in hand, capturing the beauty of the surrounding landscape. Once satisfied with my impromptu photoshoot, I geared up and resumed my northward journey.
Roadside Woes: Cracks in the Wheel Hubs
The road stretched ahead, winding through scenic vistas, but my excitement was momentarily punctured by a glaring issue: big cracks in my wheel hubs. Determined to tackle this unexpected hiccup, I craved the sweet embrace of phone signal. My trusty mobile was about to become my lifeline as I embarked on a digital quest to Google the mysteries of tire troubles. The cracks had me scratching my head, uncertain of the road ahead. Time to consult the oracle of the internet!
Arriving at Makarora, a quaint town just a stone’s throw—okay, maybe a ten-kilometer throw—from the campsite, my hopes for a phone signal were swiftly crushed. Cue the frustrated sigh. Undeterred, I pressed on, my next beacon of civilization, Haast, beckoning from a distant 60 kilometers.
Wanaka, my signal sanctuary, was now a distant memory, and I was venturing into the wild west coast of New Zealand. Forget bustling metropolises; here, towns were more like cozy pit stops. Today’s mission? Fox Glacier, with the promise of icy adventures and hopefully, a solution to my wheel hub woes. Let the rugged journey continue.
On the road, I hit a snag – road works. The workers signaled a fifteen-minute pause, so there I was, biding my time. Just as I got back on the road, the rain decided to join the party. Ah, classic weather in these parts! Crossing to the other side of the Southern Alps, I was now in the land of abundant rainfall. But hey, that’s why I ventured here – the west coast promised some serious natural wonders!
Makarora to Haast: A Scenic Drive Amid Challenges
The journey from Makarora to Haast unfolded on a canvas of beauty, a scenic drive through the captivating Mount Aspiring National Park. The rainforest, already a sight to behold, gained an extra touch of magic as the raindrops danced around. And rain? Oh boy, it poured like it had a mission.
As I meandered through the lush landscape, the rivers, normally serene, now roared with a formidable energy. Witnessing them in their full, majestic flow was both awe-inspiring and a tad intimidating. Mother Nature was putting on a show, transporting colossal amounts of water, and I had a front-row seat. Talk about the power of the elements.
Arriving at Haast, my hopes for a miraculous signal resurrection were dashed once more – thanks, mobile provider! Despite my best efforts – the classic phone restart and a few rounds of network searching – the signal remained elusive. Frustrated but determined, I opted to hit the road and continue my journey to Fox Glacier. Roughly an hour and a half of scenic drive lay ahead, and hopefully, better connectivity awaited at my next stop. Onward to the glacier quest!
As I traversed the route, numerous single-lane bridges demanded my attention. Attempting to capture the essence of one, I snapped a few pictures, though I must admit they didn’t quite capture the bridge’s charm.
A Scenic Stop at Knights Point
Thirty minutes into my drive, a sign beckoned with the promise of scenic views at ‘Knights Point.’ Intrigued, I decided to heed the call and pulled over. Despite the less-than-ideal weather – a symphony of clouds, clouds, and more clouds – the beauty of the west coast unfolded before me. The scenery was delightful. I grabbed a Coke, kicked back, and took a brief break, soaking in the moment.
Occasionally treated to picturesque glimpses of the coastline, my journey was sprinkled with moments of awe. As time passed, the mountains made a triumphant return to the scene, signaling that Fox Glacier was drawing near.
The Hitchhiker’s Tale
En route, I encountered a hitchhiker in need of a lift to Fox Glacier. Feeling charitable, I offered him a ride for the final 10 kilometers. After dropping him off in town, I continued on my way. Reflecting on my impromptu act of kindness, I couldn’t help but cringe a bit. Turns out, the guy had spent the last four days in the forest hunting hare, and the lingering scent was, well, less than pleasant. I hate to be blunt, but honesty wins – I just hoped my car stayed clean for the return journey. As luck would have it, everything stayed surprisingly spick and span.
Fox Glacier, a petite town, boasted essentials like a gas station, a pint-sized grocery store, tour companies, and various places to stay.
Charging Up at a Cozy Café
I parked my car in a public lot and made a pit stop at the nearby restroom. Returning to my car, I grabbed my laptop. With lunchtime approaching, I decided to treat myself and recharge both myself and my device. Spotting a fancy café, I approached a girl with a charming Spanish accent – probably a working backpacker. Politely, I inquired if I could plug in while enjoying my meal. She graciously confirmed, and there I was, stationed for about two hours, juicing up my laptop and jotting down some thoughts.
I opted for the chicken wraps, and let me tell you, they were a culinary delight. Ah, the joys of dining out – made even sweeter by the fact that it comfortably fit into my daily budget. The bill tallied up to around 25 dollars, a small price for such a satisfying experience.
A Glimpse of the Glacier: The Illusion of a Ranger
After wrapping up at the restaurant, it was high time for a rendezvous with the glacier. I retraced my route for a brief 2-kilometer drive on the highway before taking a left turn. Just a short 4 kilometers from there, and I’d be standing in awe of the glacier. The sight of the river, fed by melting ice, was nothing short of spectacular and amped up my excitement. While I’d caught a glimpse of the glacier from Lake Tekapo before from the sky, today marked the day I’d witness its majesty up close and personal.
As I neared the car park, the landscape unfolded before me, a stark reminder that years ago, the glacier occupied this very stretch of the valley. Adjacent to the car park, a small lake adorned with crystal-clear blue water caught my eye. The beauty was too irresistible, prompting me to snap a quick photo from the comfort of my car.
Parking and drawn by the allure of the river’s edge, I couldn’t resist exploring. Excited to gauge the journey to the glacier, I strolled toward the sign, initially convinced a ranger awaited my inquiries. Cue the facepalm moment – it was just a cleverly deceptive picture, so convincing from a distance.
The trail proved to be a breeze, a mere 30-minute stroll to the glacier. I tackled it in my trusty sneakers, a decision I’d soon regret. The shoes, already two years old, were leaking. Mental note: a new pair of sneakers is definitely on the shopping list in the coming days.
The journey toward the glacier outlook was peppered with intriguing sights. Just 50 meters in, a warning sign flashed about the perils of falling rocks. The next 100 meters demanded continuous motion – no stopping allowed. Undeterred, I couldn’t resist capturing the rocky staircase to my left in a few photos. The thought crossed my mind that witnessing a cascade of falling rocks would be quite the adventurous spectacle. Call it wishful thinking during the walk!
The Challenge of Sneakers and the Final Glacier Outlook
Crossing three petite rivers added a delightful touch to the trek, and to my relief, my shoes stayed bone dry. In the event of heavy rainfall, those rivers could turn into robust waterways, but luck was on my side that day.
The final stretch of the walk involved a bit of a climb, but the effort was inconsequential compared to the reward. The outlook offered a captivating scene, with the glacier stealing the show. Completing the walk, I couldn’t help but bask in satisfaction. Standing before this colossal piece of ice, I felt delightfully insignificant in its imposing presence.
Gauging the Glacier’s Size Over Time
Judging the size of the glacier in these pictures is a bit tricky since there’s no point of reference like a person. Trust me, though, it was colossal. The entire valley left me in awe. While revisiting and enhancing this blog, I couldn’t help but notice the significant retreat of the glacier. It’s fascinating to compare the photo I took on May 5th, 2014, with the one captured in the video below (the glacier lookout is right beneath it). Witnessing the sudden retreat is quite a revelation!
I consider myself fortunate to have witnessed this natural wonder. Regrettably, since March 2019, the route to the outlook has been shut down due to recurrent flooding and landslides. The current alternative is the southern cycle path, offering a 2-hour journey for a splendid view of Fox Glacier.
Fifteen minutes spent at the glacier outlook, and I descended to explore the lower vantage point. It wasn’t as awe-inspiring, but it did offer a clearer view of the river. Returning to the car park, I seized the opportunity to capture some final shots of the surrounding nature – picturesque small rivers, cascading waterfalls, and moss-covered rocks lined my path.
Choosing a Campsite: Wikicamps to the Rescue
Returning to the car park, I hit the road again. Capturing two final snapshots of the stunningly clear blue lake, I marveled at its beauty. Just in the nick of time, I hopped back into the car as a drizzle began.
Heading back to town, I pondered my next move. With darkness closing in, finding a place to sleep became a priority. However, planning for tomorrow’s visit to Franz Josef Glacier ruled out a budget-friendly DOC (department of conservationcampsite – the closest one was 11 kilometers north of Franz Josef. But driving back the next day wasn’t ideal, considering Franz Josef was already 25 kilometers from Fox Glacier. Decisions, decisions.
Opting for a campsite in Fox Glacier, I found one listed at 20 dollars through my Wikicamps app. It was a breeze to locate. En route, I swung by the local store to grab some snacks before reaching the campsite.
Evening Chores: Laundry, Laptop Charging, and Literary Escapes
Upon parking on the grass, the lady at the reception advised me to use a powered site, conveniently paved. I was about to inquire if that was permissible, envisioning dry-shoe trips to the restroom. As luck would have it, just as I settled into my car, the weather took a turn for the worse. Rain poured down intensely, almost like a tempest. Fortunately, the temperature held up; I always crank up the heater about 10 minutes before parking, turning my car into a makeshift sauna – talk about perks!
At approximately 10 pm, I tackled the laundry while simultaneously giving my laptop a power boost. Engaging in a little multitasking, I delved into my book, Game of Thrones, effectively passing the time.
Following that, I indulged in a few more episodes of a series before calling it a night around 1 am. The rain persisted, lending a soothing background to my evening. In anticipation of tomorrow’s forecast predicting heavy rainfall, I made necessary preparations.
