Today marked my journey to the Yasawa Islands, with the ultimate destination being Nacula Island. I stirred from sleep at 6:20 am, promptly packing my belongings and tending to my morning routine, including teeth brushing. By 6:40 am, I had completed the check-out process. Although the stay had been pleasant, it was time to set sail for the Yasawa Islands—an archipelago renowned for its pristine white beaches and crystal-clear waters. Having pre-arranged the excursion, I awaited my 7 am pick-up. Unfortunately, the rush left no time for breakfast, a realization that dawned on me despite knowing I wouldn’t reach my accommodation until 1 pm.
Snacktime Serendipity
As planned, the bus rolled up and scooped me into its vibrant embrace. Anticipating the need to flaunt my reservation, I was pleasantly surprised when it proved unnecessary. In the blink of an eye, I felt immersed in the essence of Indonesia. Seated comfortably, we embarked on a journey to explore other enchanting resorts around the airport. The scenery was breathtaking.
Upon reaching the Mercure Hotel, a fellow backpacker hopped off the bus, eager to grab some snacks from a quaint shop. Seizing the opportunity, I secured my bag and approached the driver, seeking permission to indulge in a snack run myself. With time on our side, I treated myself to some delicious cookies, ensuring I wouldn’t have to endure hunger until 1 pm.
Arrival at Port Denarau
At around 8 am, the bus gracefully pulled into Port Denarau. Our initial task was to drop off our luggage at the port, followed by a journey to the check-in desk. Patiently, I bided my time for approximately 15 minutes before it was finally my turn. Despite lacking a physical voucher, I confidently presented my email reservation. The excitement brewed within me as I had booked an enticing trip, brimming with a plethora of exciting activities for the upcoming days.
Departure from port Denarau
Blessed with gorgeous weather, I was well aware that a sunburn was on the horizon. Ironically, my $20 (NZD) sunscreen rested snugly in my backpack, now en route to the ferry. Oh well, c’est la vie. Armed with my vouchers, I strolled towards the ferry, the Yasawa Flyer. Passengers were bustling with anticipation as they boarded. Once on board, I swiftly ascended the stairs, claiming one of the prime spots beside two German girls. The entire deck boasted excellent photo opportunities with stunning views all around.
The moment I settled onto the bench, an immediate wave of relaxation washed over me. The Tokatoka Resort had truly been a haven for the past two days. Lounging by the pool with my book and enjoying rejuvenating sleep in a plush king-size bed added to the bliss. Waiting for the ferry departure, I immersed myself in my book, capturing the serene moments. Once we set sail for the Yasawa Islands, I eagerly snapped pictures, facing the rear of the boat while effortlessly capturing the picturesque scenes on both sides.
To the left unfolded a lush mangrove, while to the right, a charming levee adorned with palm trees and villas. The port bustled with yachts, though none set sail. In the distance, a luxurious cruise ship painted a scene of opulence.
The Yasawa Archipellago
The ferry set sail from the port at around 8:30 am, and I found myself in anticipation for the approximately 4.5-hour journey to my destination—the northernmost and consequently most secluded island of the Yasawa Islands: Nacula Island. My excitement peaked because this area is known as the Blue Lagoon region, boasting stunning blue waters and serving as the filming location for the movie The Blue Lagoon. Admittedly, I wasn’t familiar with the film or its star, Brooke Shields, but the allure of the place added to my eagerness.
Interestingly, another movie, Cast Away, was filmed on Monuriki Island part of the Mamanuca Islands. This movie, I had seen and, being already enamored with Fiji, I was keen on watching. A friend once mentioned a Jim Carrey movie, The Truman Show, where the main character aspired to travel to Fiji. Throughout the film, I hoped he’d make it there, but the plot took an unexpected turn. But let’s get back to the main topic.
The ferry made multiple stops along the way, prompting me to occasionally capture moments through photographs. However, my primary focus remained on my book. Unfortunately, the German girls seated next to me proved quite bothersome. I wished I couldn’t understand their conversation, as their lively chatter about Sydney and Australia in general disrupted my reading. The girls had just met, and their discussion remained rather superficial and elementary.
South Sea Island and Vomo Island
After 30 minutes, we arrived at South Sea Island, a destination that marked the culmination of my Yasawa Islands itinerary. The ferry paused, and small boats approached to pick up passengers and luggage. The process was seamless—accommodation names echoed twice, and travel times were conveniently printed on the vouchers. Only the most absent-minded would manage to forget their stop amidst such clarity. Following that, we reached Vomo Island, as depicted in pictures 2, 3, and 4 below. A petite yet charming island.
Kuata Island
Continuing our journey to the Yasawa Islands, we made a stop at Kuata Island, which I consider the most captivating Y-shaped island, thanks to its rugged cliffs showcased in the sixth photo below. I couldn’t help but envision the breathtaking beauty of hiking along this island!
Wayasewa Island
Across from the Yasawa Flyer ferry, I spotted the Wayalailai Ecohaven accommodation, set against a colossal rock on the hill above, on the southern side of Wayasewa Island. Managed by locals, this budget-friendly resort promises an authentic experience. While I’ve embraced some budget stays during my journey, I opted for a balance, avoiding the absolute cheapest accommodations.
Waya Island
In a matter of moments, we cruised by Wayasewa and reached Waya Island, where we dropped off the next set of travelers at Waya Island Resort. En route, we glided past the towering rocky ridge on the southwestern side of Waya Island—an awe-inspiring sight!
As the Yasawa Flyer sailed past the ridge, its grandeur was truly striking. This mountain stands as the highest point in the entire Yasawa Islands. Gazing from the Yasawa Flyer toward the mountain in the water made me feel insignificantly small, sparking my imagination about the breathtaking view from its summit. The panoramic sight of the archipelago from that vantage point must be truly extraordinary.
Paradise Cove Resort at Naukacuvu Island
Shortly after Waya Island, we visited Narara-, Naukacuvu-, Nanuya Balavu- and Drawaqa Island. For Naukacuvu Island I could not leave Paradise Cove Resort unmentioned (first picture below). The incredible amount of shimmering green palmtrees around the accomodation and up the hill behind the resort was an incredible spectacle to notice. The name of the accommodation truly lived up to its name.
Across Paradise Cove Resort lied a bunch of good-looking burres on the island of Nanuya Balavu. I think also part of Paradise Cove Resort. Apart from that there wasn’t much to see on that side. I pictured the personnel of Paradise Cove Resort singing a welcome song for the arrival of its new guests, a tradition that happened all across the Yasawa Islands. Shortly after the Yasawa Flyer departed, making me a bit depressed seeing those beautiful green lush palmtrees fade in the distance.
Nanuya Balavu
Among the Yasawa Islands, Nanuya Balavu, home to Manta Ray Resort, was the sole island that didn’t leave a profound impression on me. However, its crystal-clear waters were a mesmerizing shade of blue. I couldn’t help but marvel at a small rowboat; it seemed to effortlessly glide through the clear azure waters, almost as if it were soaring rather than sailing.
Nanuya Lailai Island
Before my departure, the last stop was Nanuya Island Resort on Nanuya Lailai Island. The traditional tree-top bures looked quite appealing. If only I could have booked a stay there as well. Unfortunately, budget constraints and recent expenses at Tokatoka Resort had already taken a toll on my wallet a few days ago.
Time flew by, and I delved deep into my Game of Thrones book, making substantial progress. Just ten minutes after arriving at Nanuya Lailai Island, we set sail for the captivating Blue Lagoon Region in the northern part of the Yasawa Islands—it was now 1:30 pm. The water was a breathtaking spectacle, with magical hues of different blues creating a captivating scene.
This marked the final destination for the ferry. It was now set to head back to Viti Levu, specifically to Port Denarau. The initial 15 minutes were spent waiting for cargo to be loaded, during which I found myself captivated by the astonishing clarity of the water.
The boat departed promptly, embarking on a swift 10-minute journey to Oarsman’s Bay Lodge. As we approached the shore, the staff commenced a melodic Fijian song, culminating in a vibrant “Bula” that echoed loudly. In unison, we responded with our own hearty “Bula” before the boat anchored, allowing us to disembark.
Navigating Surprises: Arrival, Payments, and Roommate Shuffle
The lobby of Oarsman’s Bay Lodge exuded a pleasant ambiance, and the bures flanking it on both sides added to the aesthetic. Warmly welcomed by the staff, we each received a refreshing coconut, its cool water a delightful treat. Seated at a table, our host, Anna, provided a comprehensive overview. She requested our vouchers and clarified that lunch was not part of the package. I found myself making a payment of around 80 dollars for the food, an additional expense as it wasn’t included.
A bit of confusion ensued when a solo traveler, much like myself, was initially placed in a bure with a German guy who was accompanied by his girlfriend. The girlfriend promptly informed Anna they were a couple. Anna, in response, rearranged the arrangements and directed the couple to follow her colleague. With five months of travel experience under my belt, I sensed this wasn’t the typical organizational protocol for accommodations—I could tell something was amiss.
Unexpected Dormitory Stay
Now, it was just me and the other solo traveler, Jacob, from Denmark. Anna informed us that all the bures were occupied, and we were to sleep in a dormitory undergoing renovation. Though I maintained a smile, I couldn’t help feeling frustrated. Everyone else was assigned one of those charming houses, and here we were stuck with a less-than-ideal dormitory. I nodded politely as Anna showed us the run-down dormitory; it certainly needed some serious renovation.
While it wasn’t the worst place I’d slept in, it was more a matter of principle. Upstairs, noticing Jacob hadn’t addressed the situation, I took the initiative. “Anna, there must be something in return for this, right?” I inquired. Confused, Anna asked for clarification. “Come on, everyone else gets a nice little bungalow, and we end up with a dormitory,” I pointed out. “Didn’t you book the dormitory?” she questioned. “Yes, but so did the others, and they’re placed in a cozy house while we’re not,” I argued, somewhat uncertain. After some discussion, Anna acknowledged our concerns and assured us of a discount on the meal payment.
Beachside Bliss: Sun, Sand, and Serenity
After Anna left the dorm, I had a conversation with Jacob and assured him that I would address the situation. I’m fine with staying in a dorm, but not when others are given a bure. I planned to discuss the financial aspect later, but for now, it was time to unwind and relax.
I set my belongings down, ensuring my bags were securely closed. Heading towards the beach in front of Oarsman’s, the scenery was truly enchanting. Regrettably, all the hammocks to my right were occupied, so I continued past them. After about 50 meters, I laid down my towel and reclined. Despite my arms and neck already being sunburned, I applied sunscreen and savored the tranquil atmosphere. With no breeze, the temperature held steady at a comfortable 25 degrees—neither too hot nor too cold. Eventually, I couldn’t resist the allure of the water and took a refreshing dip. The shoreline was perfect; you could wade in for 20 meters and still have the water only reach your knees. After my aquatic adventure, I indulged in some childlike fun, building sand castles on the deserted beach. With no one in sight, I reveled in the moment, thoroughly enjoying the solitude.
By 7 pm, dinner was on the agenda. Just prior to the meal, I changed my clothes in the less-than-ideal restroom. Today, I had no intention of showering, given that the dormitory’s shower was either still under renovation or simply too unappealing for my taste. I decided to wait until tomorrow when I could use the shower in the smaller bure.
Culinary Adventures and Nocturnal Encounters in Fijian Paradise
In the evening, we savored a traditional Fijian meal, expertly prepared by wrapping it in banana leaves and a sack, placing it over a fire, and burying it under dirt. The process was explained to us, and we eagerly participated in the excavation of the cooked delicacies. The key indicator was the color of the banana leaves – when they turned gray, it signified that the food was ready; if they remained green, a bit more patience was required.
The meal was presented 30 minutes later in a buffet style. To be frank, it was satisfactory. The spread included chicken, lamb, and fish, accompanied by sweet potatoes, yams, salad, and clams. Trying yams for the first time, I noted an unusual smoky flavor. Overall, the food met expectations, although I had hoped for a more exceptional culinary experience.
In the evening, I made good use of my mosquito net due to the prevalent flies. I found comfort and protection under its cover and spent some time reading. I retired to bed around 10 pm. At approximately 2 am, the local Fijians entered our dorm, as they were also staying there.
