Today was filled with a multitude of activities in and around Hilo. Due to the uncomfortable night, I woke up earlier than planned. By 4:40 am, I departed from the campsite and headed back towards the visitor center, a 15-minute drive from there to the Kilauea crater. Although the weather wasn’t rainy, a persistent drizzle persisted. However, what truly frustrated me was the poor visibility caused by thick clouds obscuring the scenery.
The Kilauea Crater
Upon reaching the crater, I attempted to capture some photos, but unfortunately, they all turned out blurry. The combination of fog and low light proved too challenging for my camera to handle. After snapping a few shots, I returned to the car. Unsurprisingly, there was nobody else at the outlook—it was still too early for visitors to arrive.
After having some bananas and drinking water, I took a moment to brush my teeth. Returning to the car, I decided to read a chapter of my book. Feeling quite tired, I attempted to sleep once more, and to my relief, I managed to doze off for another hour. When I woke up, the car park at the Jaggal Museum, where the outlook was situated, remained deserted.
I headed back towards the visitor center, but upon reaching the Jaggal Museum, I found the road closed due to dangerous sulfur fumes posing a risk to visitors.
Luck in the Drizzle
There was another lookout point that caught my interest, prompting me to quickly park and dash towards the fenced area. As I approached, I noticed the clouds beginning to dissipate, and I could feel the temperature rising as the sun peeked through.
Shortly after, I was treated to a spectacular rainbow. “Guess the drizzling wasn’t pointless after all,” I mused. As the rainbow gradually disappeared, I knew it was time to depart. I drove back towards the entrance and made the decision to head to Hilo immediately. Although I had some reservations about the weather there, considering it’s known as the area with the highest rainfall on the island.
America-sized Warehouses in Hilo
After an hour and a half, I reached Hilo. My first stop was at the grocery store, where I noticed a large chain of warehouses, including a Target store. Surprisingly, the stores were massive, exceeding my expectations for a small town like Hilo. Despite the island’s population of just 185,000 scattered across it, Hilo and Kailua-Kona were the largest towns. Yet, the sheer size of the warehouses caught me off guard.
As I stepped into Safeway, I found myself in awe. The store was surprisingly quiet, with only a few shoppers milling about. Wandering through the ten expansive aisles, I felt overwhelmed by the array of choices. Eventually, I settled on some candy and two donuts. The pizza section particularly caught my attention—it stretched along one long aisle, and I couldn’t resist snapping three photos of the refrigerators (two of which are displayed above). Safeway offered an abundance of indulgent treats, from hamburgers to ice cream and chips. It was a fascinating experience to observe these quintessentially American offerings; something entirely new to me, having not encountered it during my travels in New Zealand or Australia. Notably, the size of the pizzas dwarfed those back home, adding to the sense of novelty.
A Walk-In Booking at Hilo Tropical Gardens
After experiencing that amusing culture shock, I stepped outside and searched for a hostel on Google. Surprisingly, I found none listed on hostelworld.com. Deciding against the top-rated option due to negative reviews on TripAdvisor, I opted for Hilo Tropical Gardens instead. The allure of this hostel lay in its small botanical garden, which piqued my interest.
The GPS functioned flawlessly, guiding me straight to the hostel within 15 minutes. Located near Hilo Airport, I parked the car and entered the hostel. Inside, I was greeted by a white man with dreadlocks (a sight that struck me as unusual, though no offense intended). He took the time to thoroughly explain everything about the hostel, and I patiently listened to the standard procedures. With some spare time on my hands, I spent an hour in the main relaxation area, browsing and planning my next steps. The man assured me multiple times that he would prepare a bed for me as soon as the current guest checked out. Each time, I reassured him that he could take his time, as I planned to return in the evening anyway.
After an hour, I departed and used Google to find a Subway nearby, where I grabbed a bite to eat. Sticking to my routine, I opted for the Chicken Teriyaki sandwich once again.
A Perfect Waterfall
Following my meal, I headed towards Rainbow Falls, situated in Hilo. It was just a 10-minute drive from Subway. Upon parking, I made my way to the overlook. The sight of the rushing water filled the air with a delightful cacophony that I thoroughly enjoyed.
To the left of the waterfall, there was a small trail beckoning me. Climbing the stairs, I followed the path up to the river. While pleasant, the scenery didn’t strike me as more impressive than the countless other rivers I had encountered on my global journey. Nonetheless, I snapped some photos before retracing my steps back to the car park. There, I took the opportunity to capture images of a stunning red bird, a Northern cardinal. The island boasted an impressive array of colorful avian species, and I always made a point to photograph them whenever I could. While such images rarely appear on my website, today I’m delighted to share a few.
A Scenic Drive South
After that quick stop, I faced two options: either visit the Akaka Waterfalls or explore another activity. Opting to save the waterfalls for tomorrow, as they conveniently lay along my route to the northern part of the island, I consulted my travel guide for alternative options. Ultimately, I decided to venture south in search of some intriguing attractions.
The hour-long drive didn’t pose any inconvenience for me; in fact, I relished the opportunity to navigate the roads and peculiarities of driving in these countries. (Although, I must admit, Hawaii’s traffic rules seemed a bit more relaxed compared to those of other countries—haha.) Along the way, I tuned in to a radio station called ‘The Wave,’ which played a mix of hit music that I found quite enjoyable. Unfortunately, my music CDs from Australia had become scratched and rendered unusable.
Approximately 7 miles before reaching my destination, the road transformed into a stunning scenic route. Driving through the lush tropical rainforest was a sight to behold. I hurriedly reached for my camera and captured snapshots (shown in the first two images above) of the final stretch of the forest. The last mile was lined with beautiful palm trees, creating a picturesque scene. Eventually, the road led into a residential area. Following the GPS directions, I arrived at my intended destination: the Kapoho Tide Pools.
Kapoho Tide Pools
The parking lot was comprised of a gravel road, prompting me to drive cautiously to protect the tires. Noticing that the area wasn’t maintained by the government, as indicated by a sign, I made a donation of 5 dollars upon arrival. Over the next 40 minutes, I explored the area, climbing rocks and capturing photographs along the way. The scenery was breathtaking, and I couldn’t help but wish I had brought along a snorkel set to fully experience the beauty of the tide pools.
Regrettably, the eruption of 2018 resulted in the complete coverage of the Kapoho Tide Pools by lava, resulting in the destruction of everything in the area.
I made the decision to continue my journey towards the lava flow near Volcano National Park. Once, a village stood in this area, but it was entirely obliterated by the lava. Both the road leading to Volcano National Park and Crater Road have been closed off due to destruction caused by the lava flow. Although the lava flow is no longer visible, it still courses beneath the surface. According to my travel guide, it’s not those who lost their homes that we should mourn, but rather those who still have homes but are unable to access them. Sadly, insurance companies are refusing to compensate these individuals for their losses.
Ahalanui Beach Park
Before reaching the end of the road, I made a stop after traveling ten miles. There was a particular attraction mentioned in my travel guide that I was eager to see: a natural swimming pool. This unique pool featured water warmed by the volcano, mixed with seawater from the ocean. The temperature ranged between 32 and 35 degrees Celsius, surpassing the typical public swimming pool temperature of 27 degrees Celsius. Observing people swimming and relaxing there was truly a delightful sight.
Unfortunately also due to the 2018 lava flow, this place got destroyed. I feel lucky to have experienced these places around Puna.
Passing Lauhalaland
Fifteen minutes later, I resumed my journey, greeted by breathtaking scenery. Driving through lush rainforest scenery was a treat, while along the coast, I encountered striking lava rocks and numerous picturesque palm trees. It was in this area that I captured what I believe to be my best palm tree photograph yet: a perfect line of evenly sized palm trees. I later found out this place is called Lauhalaland.
Coconut Sale at Uncle Robert’s Awa Bar and Farmers Market
After 30 minutes of driving, I reached the end of the road, where it was fenced off and dotted with small restaurants. I parked my car in the area, noticing the scarcity of tourists—I might have been the only one there at that moment.
As I made my way across the street and descended the stairs to the beach, a man approached me and inquired if I was thirsty. Upon my affirmation, he offered me a coconut, to which I agreed. When he asked for 5 dollars, I chuckled and informed him that seemed steep. “Coconuts are abundant here, they fall naturally,” I quipped. “Alright, how about 4 dollars then?” he countered. Negotiating further, I suggested two dollars, which he eventually accepted. However, his friend interjected, expressing disagreement with the price concession. “Do you know what he goes through to collect these? He climbs the trees to retrieve them,” he asserted, clearly perturbed by his friend’s acceptance of my offer.
I engaged in a conversation with the gentleman about travel. He shared that he had been traveling for three years, exploring destinations worldwide with minimal funds. Utilizing resources like Couchsurfing and engaging in volunteer work enabled him to sustain his journey. He mentioned he was in the process of writing a book detailing his unconventional travel methods. I concurred with his perspective on the importance of embracing travel. After about 10 minutes, our conversation concluded, and I proceeded towards what I believed was the Kaimu Black Sand Beach.
Kaimu Black Sand Beach
The landscape resembled a vast expanse of lava, adorned with hues of red earth that added to its allure. Although I explored the area, my path towards the water was obstructed by numerous signs. Restricted to walking around the roadside area, I discovered that other parts were situated on private property, prohibiting access for visitors like myself.
After a 10-minute walk, I returned to my car and drove back to the hostel, taking a different route. Along the initial stretch of the road, I encountered several hitchhikers, mostly hippies. Despite their presence, I opted not to pick anyone up as they appeared somewhat unkempt, and I preferred to keep my car clean.
Upon my return to the hostel in Hilo, 45 minutes had elapsed. The roads surrounding this area of the island were nearly devoid of traffic, creating a serene atmosphere for my journey.
A Gem at Hilo Tropical Gardens
Aware that I still had some time before sunset, I decided to explore the garden and path leading to the private beach, as suggested by the receptionist. As I wandered through the hostel garden, bustling with campers, I learned that it had been constructed by a Chinese couple who were no longer associated with the property, which was now owned by the hostel. While the garden appeared somewhat neglected, I could envision its former splendor from the stories I heard.
The garden was rather small. After circling around, I found myself back at the lobby without discovering the trail. However, on my second attempt, I managed to locate it, although it was somewhat concealed.
I found myself on a narrow street, endeavoring to navigate my way to the beach. Along the way, I encountered two parked cars adjacent to a yellow fence. As I passed the fence, a sign caught my eye, indicating that I was stepping onto sacred Hawaiian land, urging visitors to respect the environment and refrain from littering. Feeling assured that I was headed in the right direction, I proceeded down the path, experiencing a curious sensation akin to being in a movie scene of The Beach. Walking through the leafy tunnel, I was filled with anticipation, knowing that something truly captivating awaited me at its end.
Regrettably, as I’m updating this in 2024, the hostel is no longer operational. However, the pathway remains accessible from Laehala St in Hilo.
Onekahakaha Beach Park
I arrived just in time to catch the sunset. Strolling over the lava rocks in the eastern part of Onekahakaha Beach Park, I relished the breathtaking view. Some locals were fishing nearby, explaining the parked cars by the fence. The scenery was truly stunning, and I was taken aback by the majestic mountain in the distance. Typically veiled by clouds, the island’s landscape was unexpectedly clear today. Though some clouds lingered, the sight of the distant mountains was a delightful surprise.
As the sun dipped below the horizon, I returned to the hostel. Determined to make the most of the evening, I opted for a refreshing shower. With a backlog of work awaiting me on the blog, I knew I had to seize this opportunity. Reflecting on my time in Auckland, I anticipated the upcoming months of relentless typing during my journey. With an increase in photography and activities, I was fully aware that the workload would be demanding.
Shower and Many Frogs
I squandered time chatting with a colleague from back home, so I ended up taking my shower in darkness. Absorbed in conversation, I held onto my clothes the entire time, unaware of the consequences. Regrettably, during those 20 minutes, I was relentlessly attacked by mosquitoes, sustaining 50 bites on my legs, arms, hands, and feet.
Before I entered the bathroom, a girl at the hostel struck up a conversation with me. Her name was Wendy, hailing from LA. With surprising accuracy, she guessed my origin on her second attempt, leaving me pleasantly surprised. Wendy appeared lovely and friendly, but regrettably, I wouldn’t have the chance to meet her again the following day.
After my shower, I dressed in trousers and a sweater to ward off the mosquitoes. I settled in the main relaxation area, which was only sheltered by a roof. The garden’s peculiar sounds, resembling bird calls, turned out to be the croaks of frogs. At first startled by their presence, I soon grew accustomed to them. Surprisingly, I spotted three frogs hopping about. As I observed further, I realized there were around 20 frogs scattered around, creating a rather amusing sight.
Late Night Conversations
I lingered in the relaxation area from 8 until about 2 am. During that time, I struck up a conversation with a guy who had recently relocated to Hilo and was starting a new job the next day. He was brimming with excitement about his fresh start. As we talked, I shared anecdotes about my journey, and I could sense his admiration. I couldn’t help but express my envy for his new life in Hawaii.
I didn’t make as much progress on the blog as I had initially intended. Instead, I found myself engrossed in conversations with friends back home and acquaintances from Indonesia. Around 2 am, I finally conceded defeat and called it a night, heading off to bed.
