At around 9 am, I roused from my slumber to the relentless drumming of rain, a less-than-ideal wake-up call. Today I would make my way to Franz Josef. An unappealing prospect of getting soaked awaited me 50 meters away at the toilet block. So, naturally, I opted for the dry luxury of my car, maneuvering it skillfully to shield myself from the storm – priorities, right? The temperature had been agreeable the night before, ensuring a cozy sleep, albeit a tad delayed.
Bid Farewell to Fox Glacier
After this strategic car relocation, I chose a new spot, snugly parked near the kitchen building. While a few fellow campers lingered, many were bidding farewell to the campsite. This turn of events left me with the kitchen all to myself. Armed with a book, laptop, and some provisions, I ensured my laptop was securely tethered to the charger before embarking on my breakfast adventure.
Two slices of bread gracefully danced in the toaster, giving me the perfect excuse to take my time. After all, I had to wait for my laptop to power up anyway. Although the standard check-out time loomed at 10 am, I politely inquired with the lady if an additional 30 minutes of reprieve would be acceptable. Lucky for me, it was a quiet period at the campsite, sparing me any time constraints during this season. I was genuinely pleased with the camping area; the toilets and showers boasted impeccable cleanliness. To my surprise, they even provided towels in the toilets for hand-drying – a touch of luxury I appreciated.
Journey to Franz Josef
Around 10:30 am, I bid farewell to Fox Glacier, setting my course for Franz Josef Glacier, a mere 25 kilometers away – a distance I considered a brief drive. However, as the weather took a turn for the worse, I found myself contemplating the purpose of my visit to Franz Josef Glacier. The prospect of getting wet dissuaded me from venturing to the lookout.
The roads were submerged, and the rivers I traversed were robustly carrying substantial amounts of water. Crossing those rivers on this particular day was an exhilarating experience, providing a firsthand view of their dynamic power. I relished every moment of it, attempting to capture the essence in photographs, although, regrettably, the pictures didn’t do justice to the awe-inspiring spectacle.
Upon reaching Franz Josef, I parked the car and kicked off my visit with a grocery run. By 11 am, with the day stretched out ahead of me, the sky was overcast but thankfully dry. Yet, the uncertainty of potential rain dissuaded me from venturing to the glacier. Opting for a plan B, I explored other attractions in the area.
Exploring Franz Josef: Wildlife Zoo and More
One option was a wildlife zoo, though the steep $30 entrance fee gave me pause. Turning to bookme.co.nz, a site renowned for hefty discounts, luck was on my side. The wildlife zoo experience was available for a more budget-friendly $15, though not for immediate access. Undeterred, I secured my spot by booking and conveniently paid with my credit card.
As I waited in my car, I engaged in a bit of WhatsApp banter with some colleagues back in the Netherlands. They seemed to be enjoying a night out and were possibly a bit tipsy, given the time difference. After bidding them farewell, I strolled toward the Wild Life Zoo, anticipating the chance to encounter fascinating creatures like kiwi birds.
Stepping into the establishment, I approached the girl at the front desk, laying out my predicament. “I made a booking, but unfortunately overlooked that it’s for tomorrow! I mistakenly thought I booked it for today. Is there any chance of making the arrangement for today?” I played the role of the oblivious tourist. The girl disappeared into the back office, returning with a form in hand. “Are you Martin Splinter?” she inquired. Confirming my identity, I received the green light – I could indeed proceed with the visit today.
From that point forward, I ventured into the park and caught a glimpse of some kiwis in the dim lighting. Regrettably, my flash camera wasn’t permitted inside, limiting me to capturing images solely of the informative signs.
I spent some time in the information area, delving into a wealth of knowledge about glaciers. The content was fascinating and provided insights into today’s weather conditions. I lingered there for about an hour. As I stepped outside, the clock approached 4 pm. While it was still dry, ominous clouds loomed overhead, hinting at the potential for rain.
Glacier Exploration and Unexpected Trails
Opting to check out the glacier, located 2 kilometers before the town, I headed back in the direction of the glaciers. After parking the car, I embarked on the trail leading to the lookout. However, the one-hour duration irked me, and after just five minutes, I retraced my steps toward the car. Thirst and hunger prompted my decision, and as I walked back along the trail, I spotted a small creek to my left.
I snagged a Coke and a snack, strolling back toward the trail. On my way, I noticed another sign pointing to a different track. Intrigued, I decided to investigate. The sign seemed to call out to me – a trail leading to ‘Peter’s Pool.’ It felt like destiny, considering Peter is my second name; I couldn’t resist the allure of exploring it.
The trail promised a 30-minute round trip, and I reserved the right to decide later if I still had the motivation to venture towards the lookout. The journey to ‘Peter’s Pool’ unfolded, as always, with charming scenery – rocks adorned with moss, lush ferns, and delightful birds. These feathered creatures proved to be quite sociable, allowing me to capture some lovely close-up shots.
The lake offered a pleasant scene, and I lingered for approximately 10 minutes. Savoring my drink and the scenic view, my moment of personal tranquility was disrupted by a couple. Frustrated, I opted to walk back; there’s nothing worse than people intruding on these special moments.
Heading to Hokitika
I strolled back towards the car, ultimately deciding to forgo the trail. Spending the next ten minutes scouring the internet, I found a campsite about 10 kilometers from Hokitika, which was approximately 130 kilometers away. Hokitika, the first small town on the west coast with more amenities compared to Haast, Fox Glacier, and Franz Josef, caught my interest. Notably, Greymouth was 20 kilometers beyond Hokitika.
I retraced my route back to the main road, taking a right turn towards the town of Franz Josef Glacier. Crossing the bridge, the rain began to pour, intensifying with each drop. I couldn’t help but appreciate my decision and pondered on the hikers currently braving the rain on their journey towards the lookout.
I headed towards Hokitika and reached the town around 5:30 pm. Despite inadvertently driving past the campsite, a minor hiccup in my journey, it didn’t bother me much. I found myself enjoying the charm of Hokitika.
Charm of Hokitika
Hokitika proved to be a charming little town, with its distinctive buildings evoking the ambiance of an old American Western desert town. The spacious layout added to the unique vibe. The clock tower, reminiscent of Bukittinggi Clock Tower, stood proudly in the center of a roundabout, unlike the market square in Bukittinggi. While the town seemed like a delightful place to explore, the relentless rain and a pressing need for a restroom urged me to keep moving. Determined to find a public toilet, I eventually located one. Parking as close as possible, I sprinted 5 meters to the toilets, getting slightly damp in the process. After a quick pit stop, I continued my journey, capturing a few snapshots—one of the museum and two of the expansive river beside the town.
Nighttime Toilet Adventures
In the end, I opted for some chips and a hamburger, planning to savor my meal at the campsite. After driving back 10 kilometers, I took a left turn towards the camp, paid the 6 dollars, and secured a spot.
However, I found myself uneasy about this particular campsite, primarily due to the toilets, which emanated a creepy vibe with red Nazi graffiti signs scattered around. The unsettling experience led me to visit the toilet four times that night, each instance sending shivers down my spine. I resolved to capture some pictures in the morning, in broad daylight, these toilets are not that eerie. Interestingly, I had previously thought I encountered the scariest free camping rest area near Cromwell, but this one seemed to take the prize. It’s worth noting that the car rest areas overall seem more intimidating than those in Australia, perhaps due to the remote feeling at these car parks or the absence of sound and people.
