Today, my destination is the enchanting Sawa-I-Lau cave nestled in the Yasawa Archipelago—a captivating underwater cavern. Rising at the crack of dawn, 7:45 am marked the countdown to breakfast, just 15 minutes away. Swiftly, I made a pit stop at the bathroom and slipped into my swim trunks in eager anticipation of the day’s adventure post-meal. However, my tranquility was disrupted by the lively banter of Fijian voices in the dorm around 6 am. One audacious soul even dared to engage in a phone call, their voices refusing to heed the calls for hushed tones, a truly irksome morning disturbance.
A Rough Start
Breakfast left much to be desired, failing to appease my appetite. However, I eagerly looked forward to tomorrow’s island, anticipating a more satisfying culinary experience. Today, though, promised a better night’s sleep in a quieter haven. A quick browse through recent TripAdvisor reviews revealed a trend of negativity, and I resolved to share my own thoughts upon my return to the main island.
Arrival at the Caves
Following a captivating 45-minute sail, we reached the enchanting Sawa-I-Lau cave. The surroundings were a visual feast — cliffs, pristine blue waters, swaying palm trees, and untouched beaches. As we landed, locals adorned with necklaces and various tourist trinkets greeted us. Our guide shared insights about the mesmerizing caves and kindly suggested purchasing souvenirs, emphasizing that it was a crucial means for the village to sustain itself.
Into the Abyss: Exploring the Hidden Depths of the Adjacent Cavern
The Sawa-I-Lau cave, brimming with water, offered a refreshing experience, though I had anticipated an even more exhilarating adventure. After a 15-minute swim in the main cave, it was time to embark on a dive toward an adjacent, pitch-black cavern. The short dive, requiring a three-second breath-hold, led to a mysterious world only accessible underwater. Guided by two helpful Fijian men and their illuminating lights, the journey was surprisingly easy and secure. Emerging from the depths, the darkness momentarily disoriented me, but the presence of driftwood provided a reassuring anchor in the deep, obsidian cave.
Once the group assembled in the adjacent cave, we collectively swam towards the cavern’s end. There, a glimmer of light awaited us, emanating from a diminutive hole in the ceiling—a narrow tunnel. The guides shared insights, revealing that the current moment marked low tide. As the tide ascended, the water level would gradually climb, eventually reaching the cavern’s ceiling.
After a thrilling 15-minute adventure, we circled back to the main Sawa-I-Lau cave, indulging in more leisurely swimming and relaxation. Our Fijian companions showcased their acrobatic prowess, scaling the cavern walls to reach lofty heights before taking daring plunges. Despite the spectacle, a pang of regret hit me for not having my camera, mindful of the impending wet boat trip. In this blog post, the travel blogger Jyo Shankar skillfully captured stunning images of the cave.
Return Journey to Oarsman’s Bay Lodge
Our entire sojourn within the Sawa-I-Lau cave spanned an hour—an enjoyable experience, yet I couldn’t shake the feeling that my expectations had aimed even higher. The trip seemed to have been hyped up in descriptions. Returning on the motorboat, the familiar splash of water in the front was inevitable. Once more, luck was on my side, securing the best seat to stay dry. I had learned my lesson back in Bali. After a 45-minute journey, we disembarked at Oarsman’s Bay Lodge.
Lunch Lamentations and Prewatered Woes
While the Italian couple strolled toward the beach, Jacob and I headed to the lobby, where a scene of everyone enjoying lunch unfolded. Unfortunately, the meal was a letdown – a perplexing combination of salad and pork meat. My culinary expectations were far from satisfied.
Opting for convenience, I bought a few sodas and handed Anna, our host, $20, specifying it was for four cokes. In hindsight, it seemed like a simple solution at the time—eliminating the need to grab my wallet each time. Little did I know, this decision would come back to haunt me the next day, but that’s a tale for another time.
A Blissful Afternoon in Protest: Dodging Massages and Battling Bland Snacks
In the afternoon I would have 30 minute massage, but I really didn’t feel for it at all. I knew it would be a crappy cheap massage, not a professional one. Instead I just lied in my hammock, reading my book, drinking cokes and enjoyed the view. The weather was perfect and I really made progress with my book. After an hour I asked Anna if I could order any snacks, like french fries. I should’ve known better, they gave me a platter of lunch again, which I already disliked in the first place. I ate it, better something than nothing.
In the late afternoon I decided to make some pictures from my hammock, just for the blog. There’s not much to write about, there’s more complaining, I just felt not being treated the right way in this accommodation. The sunset was quite nice.
Culinary Chronicles, Gossipy Whispers, and Midnight Musings
I found solace in the pleasant company around. The German couple, Elina and Robin, proved to be genuinely amiable, with Elina sharing my sentiments about the food. We occasionally conversed in Dutch, exchanging thoughts on the quality and quantity of the meals. Having encountered numerous delightful and dreadful dishes over the past five months, this culinary experience was remarkably mediocre considering the amount I was paying. Ironically, even the meals I had in the heart of the jungle for two days surpassed these in flavor and satisfaction.
Come evening, I shared the TripAdvisor reviews with Andrea and Valeria, the Italian couple, as well as Elina and Robin, the German couple. The feedback was notably negative, courtesy of a Fijian traveler who claimed there was gossip about the guests. Acknowledging the likelihood of some truth in the report, as such occurrences tend to happen universally, I reflected on similar experiences in Indonesia. I distinctly remember encounters such as the girl which gossiped I met during my bus ride to Lovina Beach.
By 10 pm, I found myself back in my room, immersing into blog article writing. An hour later, I indulged in some episodes of “How I Met Your Mother,” and as the clock struck midnight, I called it a night, drifting off to sleep.
