I rose early today, at 4:30 am, with plans to explore the Borobudur and Prambanan temples around Yogyakarta. The previous day, I carefully mapped out my route, realizing that for over an hour, I’d be navigating without the convenience of mobile internet and GPS until I reached the next country. Throughout the two months of my journey, I depended on Google Maps screenshots, my sense of direction, and asking for directions to reach my destinations.
Naturally, the roads were deserted since no one was out at this early hour. I headed first to the Borobudur temples, which were located 60 kilometers north of Yogyakarta. In certain stretches, I rode at an exhilarating speed, thanks to the well-maintained roads and minimal traffic. That distinct sense of freedom returned during this ride. I enjoyed the liberating absence of traffic rules and, of course, the scenic views that come with traveling by moped. While there were moments when I felt secure going at 100 kilometers per hour, most of the time, I maintained an average speed of 70 kilometers per hour.
Price Difference
Upon reaching the parking lot, a man approached me to sell souvenirs, and I thanked him. “Can I see the temple first?” I inquired, jokingly. In front of the entrance, a group of locals wanted to take a picture of me. A bit displeased, I entered the temple premises at 6:30 a.m.
At the ticket booth, I engaged in a discussion about the pricing structure. There were two separate booths: one for domestic tourists and another for international tourists like myself. International visitors were charged 20 USD, while locals paid around 1 USD. This encounter felt like my first experience with discrimination, but is it? The Borobudur temple, funded and protected by UNESCO, holds international heritage status and is situated in Indonesia by coincidence. So, why the disparity in pricing? While I understand that domestic Indonesians may have lower purchasing power compared to international tourists, and the additional revenue is used for temple maintenance, I believe there should be fairer ways to generate extra income from international visitors without resorting to discrimination. This just doesn’t feel right. Enough of the social justice warrior talk.
As I approached the temple, a group of students approached me offering to guide me for free. I engaged in a pleasant conversation with them and expressed my gratitude. However, considering my memorable experience from yesterday, I felt the need for some private time today.
The Borobudur Temple
My early arrival at Borobudur proved to be a wise decision. The surroundings were peaceful, with only a few people strolling around. As the late morning and afternoon approached, the site would inevitably become bustling with tourists, especially those on organized tours. Follow my example: rent a moped, relish the highway adventure, and aim to reach the Borobudur temple as early as feasible to avoid the tourist crowds. This way, you can explore without tripping over fellow visitors.
Borobudur, also known as Barabudur, stands as the largest Buddhist temple globally, constructed in the 9th century. The magnificent structure is attributed to the maritime empire of the Shailendra dynasty, which, alongside its maritime pursuits, thrived on agriculture. Cultivating rice on the Kedu Plain of Central Java, they concurrently erected remarkable edifices such as the Borobudur stupa. Despite these achievements, considerable mysteries linger about the Shailendra dynasty.
I spent a full hour at the temple. Occasionally, I would sit down and simply admire the various carvings on the walls, losing track of time. Unaware of the stories behind these carvings, I found myself surprisingly unconcerned today. Despite my aversion to clichés, there was an undeniable magical aura about this place. Strangely, I felt at ease, with no compulsion to unravel the tales behind each carving. Being at the world’s largest Buddhist temple, surrounded by a mere 30 people, felt surreal. After the hour, I continued my journey to the museum, capturing some snapshots of Gunung Merapi along the way.
At the museum, I purchased ice cream before entering the building. Unfortunately, photography was not permitted inside. After spending 30 minutes exploring the museum, I exited and headed back to the parking lot. Continuing my journey back to Yogyakarta, I stopped for breakfast upon arrival.
The Prambanan Temple
After having breakfast, I proceeded towards the Prambanan temple, situated 10 kilometers east of Yogyakarta, along the main road leading to Solo, a town I planned to visit in a few days. Similar to the Borobudur temple, there was a practice of tourist discrimination at Prambanan, and the person at the ticket counter refused to acknowledge my ISIC youth card. He insisted on an official student pass. Frustrated, I expressed my dissatisfaction, prompting him to eventually grant me a modest discount. I ended up paying 150,000 IDR instead of the regular 220,000 IDR, though the standard student price was around 110,000 IDR.
I found the park I entered to be more beautiful than the grounds of the Borobudur temple. Although both Borobudur and Prambanan are impressive, I unexpectedly favored Prambanan. Furthermore, at that time, I wasn’t aware of Sewu; if I had known, I would certainly have explored that temple too!
Prambanan or Rara Jonggrang was constructed during the same period as the Borobudur temple. This Hindu temple is dedicated to the Trimurti, the triple deity of supreme divinity in Hinduism. Comprising 240 temples, Prambanan stands as the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia. It is believed that the Sanjaya dynasty built the temple to emphasize their resurgence in the region and as a response to the Buddhist temples of Borobudur and Sewu. The Sanjaya dynasty played a proactive role in promoting Hinduism in ancient Java.
Student Guides
At the entrance gate of the Prambanan temple, I encountered two students offering to guide me. Eventually, I had to complete their form with some personal information (name, country of origin). The student duo shared intriguing details about the Gods and Hindu rituals. There were three primary temples dedicated to the Gods (Brahma, the creator; Vishnu, the preserver; and Shiva, the destroyer). Each God had their associated animals, each with its own temple (a bull for Shiva, a sacred swan for Brahma, and an eagle for Vishnu). The tallest temple at Prambanan, standing at 50 meters, remains a mystery in terms of how it was constructed in ancient times. During my visit, Prambanan temple was undergoing renovation due to significant damage caused by an earthquake in 2006.
Amusing incident as I posed in front of the candi. A brave Indonesian tourist approached me and asked for a picture. Naturally, once one sheep leaps over the ditch, the rest will follow. Consequently, I ended up in photos with ten different local tourists. I believe it might be due to my height, since there were other foreign tourists present as well.
Prambanan’s Museum
Following my temple visit, I explored the museum. This time, photography was permitted, adding to my enjoyment. I spent around 30 minutes there before departing.
I spent a total of an hour and thirty minutes at the site. Following my visits to Borobudur and Prambanan, I made my way back to Yogyakarta. The highway was notably more congested on the return journey. I adeptly navigated through the traffic, honing my overtaking skills. I found the experience of maneuvering through the bustling traffic quite enjoyable. The road was filled with bicycles, mopeds, cars, vans, buses, and trucks. Interestingly, some bicycles, mopeds, or locals with mobile stands were moving against the flow of traffic. Honking served as a courteous signal, indicating, “I’m overtaking you,” rather than the more aggressive tone found in Western countries. Additionally, I observed that, during the early morning, motorbikes didn’t stop for red traffic lights unless there was already someone waiting (I adhered to the red light, and all the motorbikes behind me also came to a stop).
Fort Vredeburg Museum
I reached Tropis Homestay at approximately 1 pm. Following a brief period of rest in my room, a much-needed reprieve after exploring Borobudur and Prambanan, I decided to tour the Dutch fort within the city. Despite its proximity, it had just closed upon my arrival. Notably, everything tends to close early here, around 4 pm.
Alternatively, I went back to the hotel, a journey that lasted 20 minutes due to congested traffic. I remained at the hotel for the remainder of the day, indulging in relaxation and exploring various online content. Later, I visited a travel agency to gather information, leading me to revise my travel plans. Although I initially intended to depart the following day, I ultimately chose to extend my stay in Yogyakarta for an additional night.
