Today, Phillip and I had plans to explore Alcatraz Island. Later in the afternoon, we intended to embark on a road trip to Marin Headlands, crossing over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. The alarm blared, jolting me awake. It wasn’t mine; it belonged to Phillip. Chuckling, I nudged him, realizing his slumber was undisturbed by the noisy alarm. After rousing him, I quickly freshened up, brushing my teeth. Within 15 minutes, we were in the car, ready to embark on our early morning adventure. As the clock struck 4:50 am, we arrived near the pier, eager to see if a line had already formed.
The Early-Bird Alcatraz Tickets
We opted for a non-secured car park near the pier, paying $12 for the convenience. Aware of the chilly morning ahead, I layered up with all the warm clothing I had. Sporting my thermal upper body garment, a sweater, and a vest, I felt prepared. Luckily, I had my Geelong scarf, a gift from Liam in Melbourne, which provided additional warmth.
Upon reaching the dock, we encountered a mother and her child from Connecticut. Mary, the mother, was accompanied by her teenager, Sam, who looked to be around 15 years old. Like us, they were here for the early-bird Alcatraz tickets. I suggested that we should probably wait at the ticket stand rather than the boarding gate, a decision I confirmed with a cleaning staff member nearby. As we waited, we engaged in conversation. Mary shared that she had traveled to Europe when she was younger, mentioning a trip to Switzerland. Our conversation flowed, and before we knew it, time had slipped away.
After an hour of waiting, the queue began to take shape. By 7:30 am, when the booth would open, we were already confident that we had secured our tickets. The anticipation of finally visiting Alcatraz was palpable and comforting.
We didn’t mind paying the $30 for the tickets; it was a small price to pay considering the alternative would have been missing out on experiencing Alcatraz, which would have been a disappointment. After all, no trip to San Francisco would be complete without visiting the iconic Alcatraz. Memories of movies like “The Rock” and childhood video games like “Red Alert 2” flooded back as we reminisced about the famous island.
Morning Coffee at Starbucks
After securing our tickets, we all decided to head to Starbucks for a quick refreshment. Remembering our trip to Safeway yesterday, where Phillip and I stocked up on supplies, including some Coca-Cola, I was content with what I had. Since we had to wait until 8:20 anyway, we strolled towards a nearby Starbucks, with Phillip leading the way just two blocks from the Alcatraz Cruises location. Mary and her son tagged along, and we continued our conversations along the walk. Ten minutes later, we arrived at Starbucks, situated in a mall or business center. A charming fountain adorned the front of the building, prompting me to capture it in a photo, as per the request of a friend back home who has a penchant for fountains.
At Starbucks, Phillip treated me to my first-ever Starbucks coffee. Opting for a latte macchiato, I found it quite enjoyable, although I didn’t manage to finish it. By the time we returned to the docks, it had cooled considerably. Passing it over to Phillip, he gladly finished it off.
A Sail to the Iconic Island of Alcatraz
We boarded the boat around 8:40 am. Despite the crowd, we were fortunate to snag some comfortable seats towards the rear on the top deck.
The temperature was gradually rising, much to our relief. Despite the wind, I was grateful for dressing appropriately for the conditions on Alcatraz. We were fortunate to have clear, sunny weather, which always made for more impressive photos. The small ferry gave us nice picture opportunities. I did my best to make the most of it. The boat was rocking heavily, therefore it was difficult to make some cool pictures.
As we approached Alcatraz island, the iconic Golden Gate Bridge loomed in the distance, but it was too far for my camera to capture. I couldn’t help but contemplate how inmates must have felt as the island drew nearer. The sense of confinement must have been overwhelming. Despite the historical significance of Alcatraz as a prison, I found myself feeling relaxed and surprisingly positive in the moment. It struck me as ironic how, during my global journey experiencing freedom, I was now en route to a place synonymous with incarceration. Whenever the word “prison” came up, Alcatraz was the first thing that came to mind.
Arrival at Alcatraz Island
Upon arrival at Alcatraz Island, we were instructed to gather closer to the speaker for some introductory remarks. We received a warm welcome to Alcatraz along with some essential information. It was explained that the audio tour was situated within the prison complex, located up the hill. Phillip and I wasted no time and headed straight there, bidding farewell to Mary and Sam with the likelihood of crossing paths later. Certain details within the prison seemed particularly ominous, such as the aged lamps and the rusted hues on the pipes and walls. I couldn’t help but imagine how much more eerie the atmosphere would be during the night tour!
Alcatraz Main Cell House
Upon reaching the shower area, we were handed our audio players for the tour. Intrigued by the availability of Dutch language, I opted for it, expecting a unique experience. However, after just 10 minutes of listening to the Dutch narration, I found myself regretting my choice, as the single voice attempted to portray multiple inmate personas. Meanwhile, Phillip, influenced by my decision, opted for the German version.
Ascending the stairs, we reached the prison cells, where the crowd seemed to thin out occasionally, granting me the opportunity for some clear snapshots. Amidst the crowd, we learned about the notorious inmates, including the infamous Birdman. Surprisingly, I discovered that Al Capone had once been incarcerated here. The cramped cells painted a stark picture of confinement, devoid of any semblance of freedom. Interestingly, prisoners could earn privileges like access to the library, providing a small reprieve from the harsh reality of prison life.
On New Year’s Eve, the inmates were starkly reminded of the world beyond their confines. From the bay, the laughter and chatter of revelers aboard yachts drifted to their ears, mingling with the strains of music and the jubilant cheers heralding the stroke of midnight.
At the end of each prison block, there loomed a gun alley, as depicted in the first picture of the third row above, situated on the left side of the alley. Here, armed guards with rifles maintained a vigilant patrol. However, those guards stationed within the cell blocks were not armed. The keys to the prison were kept secured in a room beyond the gun alley. When required, a guard on duty within the cell blocks would receive the keys from a guard stationed in the gun alley, passed through with the aid of an iron stick.
Attempted Escapes
There have been numerous escape attempts on Alcatraz, although most ended in failure. However, one attempt stands out as a true success story. Frank Morris, along with two accomplices, managed to escape through the ventilation shafts. Using their raincoats, they fashioned a makeshift boat. Although pieces of their improvised vessel were discovered in the bay by the FBI, their bodies were never recovered. While some speculate that they perished, others believe they may have successfully evaded capture. Interestingly, I later came across a Mythbusters episode demonstrating the plausibility of this escape method. Frank Morris was reputed to be a brilliant mind, boasting an IQ of 137. Some even suggest that he meticulously planned his escape from the very day he set foot on Alcatraz.
Isolation Cells
Another aspect of the prison complex comprised the isolation cells, which differed in size and furnishings compared to standard cells. However, inmates spent prolonged periods here without the privilege of conversation. Their only respite was an hour of exercise per week. For those demonstrating extreme misconduct, they faced confinement in dark isolation cells, stripped of their clothing. Once sealed, these cells plunged into complete darkness, with no external light penetrating inside. The inmates were provided with a simple hole in the ground for their restroom needs, earning these cells the ominous nickname “the hole.”
Alcatraz Prisoner’s Courtyard
As the tour progressed, we ventured outside the prison building. Phillip and I paused our audio guide to capture some breathtaking shots of San Francisco. The view was truly remarkable, albeit accompanied by brisk winds on the island. We seized the opportunity to take photos of each other, and Mary kindly offered to snap a picture of us together.
Resuming our audio tour, we learned about the unique challenges posed by Alcatraz’s location. Situated on an island, the prison presented formidable obstacles to escape. The frigid water temperature surrounding the island posed a significant risk; even a short swim could quickly lead to hypothermia and death within 15 minutes. Additionally, the powerful currents in the bay made swimming to safety nearly impossible, often trapping escapees or pulling them further into the Pacific Ocean.
Alcatraz’s Spaghetti Riot
After a brief interval, we proceeded to the kitchen and dining area of the prison. This section was deemed the most perilous as it accommodated all the inmates, numbering around 300, during meals, complete with utensils. Though guards were present during dining hours, the primary security measure was the installation of tear gas canisters suspended from the ceiling.
They recounted an intriguing tale known as the “Spaghetti Riot.” Initially, the cuisine at Alcatraz was of high quality, featuring fresh ingredients prepared by a skilled cook. However, with the arrival of a new warden, the food policy shifted toward a plethora of pasta dishes. One day, an inmate made a jesting remark that if they were served spaghetti again the following day, he would incite a food fight. True to his word, when spaghetti was served yet again, the inmate initiated the chaos by hurling spaghetti, sparking a riot.
One of the senior guards swiftly devised a solution: he fired shots at the windows, instantly halting the commotion among the inmates. Then, he signaled to his colleague to blow softly on his whistle, a customary indication that mealtime was concluded and all prisoners were to return to their cells. Remarkably, the inmates complied without resistance, recognizing the seriousness of the situation, especially with the presence of both cutlery and tear gas canisters hanging ominously above the guards.
Our Return to San Francisco
We remained on the island until 11:45, catching the next boat back to San Francisco’s pier right on schedule. Hungry from our tour, we opted for burgers at Juicy Burger, located somewhere in the city. After parking the car in a nearby garage, we strolled a few blocks to reach the restaurant. The place was bustling with activity, filled with locals enjoying their meals. Phillip assured me that the burgers here were truly exceptional.
We placed our orders and decided to dine at the bar. The burgers proved to be satisfying, evoking memories of the Fergburger experience I had in New Zealand. However, shortly after finishing my meal, I started feeling unwell, experiencing some stomach discomfort. Sensing exhaustion creeping in, we made our way back to the hostel, with Phillip also feeling fatigued.
Upon returning to the hostel dorm, we ran into Kenton from San Diego once more. While Phillip unwound with his phone in the afternoon, I decided to catch a quick nap, which ended up stretching to 2.5 hours. Waking up, I felt disoriented and sluggish, tempted to spend the rest of the afternoon in bed. However, I pushed myself to get up, and within 10 minutes, the fog of drowsiness lifted, and I was eager to dive into our afternoon plans.
Scenic Roads Around San Francisco
Mary recommended a fantastic viewpoint for the San Francisco bridge: the Marin Headlands, situated across the bridge on the right side. Driving over the iconic San Francisco bridge was a thrilling experience, and I couldn’t help but enjoy every moment of it. To enhance the experience, I had curated a new CD specifically for this drive. Phillip and I planned to create a short Facebook video during the journey. As we drove across the bridge, we played “San Francisco” by Scott McKenzie. Unfortunately, the first attempt to capture the moment was thwarted by battery issues, but on our way back, we managed to capture the essence perfectly. I added the video down below, haha.
The second exit after crossing the Golden Gate Bridge took us to the Marin Headlands, where we discovered several stunning viewpoints. We decided to explore two of them. Unfortunately, at the second outlook, my camera abruptly stopped working due to drained batteries. This marked the third time today that I had to replace them, likely because I had opted for cheaper batteries. Frustrated, I cursed under my breath, realizing I had run out of spares. I had underestimated the power consumption of filming, and now we were left without any means to capture the breathtaking scenery.
Battery Quest in Sausalito
Phillip came up with a solution. He mentioned a quaint scenic town nearby called Sausalito (quite a tasty name, indeed). We could head there to pick up some batteries. Phillip also noted that many tour companies visited Sausalito, suggesting it might be worth exploring for its charm and attractions.
So we headed there, retracing our route back to the highway and following the regular road leading to Sausalito. The town boasted picturesque hills and was bustling with tourists, some of whom were cycling around. We initially checked for batteries at a gas station but found them to be too pricey for our liking. Opting for a more budget-friendly option, we returned to a supermarket we had spotted earlier and managed to snag the last two batteries available in the store (phew). Meanwhile, Phillip decided to grab a drink, but after taking a sip outside, he promptly discarded it in the nearby garbage bin. “No wonder he’s so much in debt,” I chuckled to myself. With Phillip’s journey nearing its end as he prepared to return to Germany, he seemed unfazed by financial matters, freely using his credit card for whatever he needed. With its generous limit, it was practically a bottomless well, eliciting a wry smile from me.
World Cup Flags
We made our way back to the lookout points, opting for a different route this time. Phillip suggested driving through the tunnel, a proposition that didn’t particularly interest me, but I was happy to go along with it. After all, I relished the opportunity to drive in this country regardless of the route. While waiting at a traffic light for the single-lane tunnel, we noticed a German flag displayed on the vehicle in front of us. It sparked a realization in Phillip about the ongoing World Cup match involving Germany. Quick to confirm the score, he Googled it and discovered Germany’s impressive 4-0 victory over Portugal. We shared in his excitement for the win. This led us to discuss the idea of adorning our car with window flags. Phillip only had an Australian flag on hand, but we decided to install it later on.
Breathtaking Vistas
After exiting the tunnel, we found ourselves at the familiar roundabout we had encountered before. Opting to explore further, we ascended uphill once again, aiming for the highest vantage point. Along the way, we spotted a one-way road. “Want to check it out?” I proposed to Phillip. Although he seemed hesitant, I had already made up my mind. “Yes, I’m crazy like that. I’m so bad ass,” I declared with a grin.
As soon as we ventured onto that road, we were greeted by breathtaking vistas. The decision to explore paid off instantly, and I felt a rush of excitement. Initially, I hadn’t expected the one-way road to be lengthy, but as we continued, winding our way along its path, I realized it stretched on for a few miles. Yet, the distance didn’t faze me in the least; every moment was filled with wonder and awe. In the first stretch, I eagerly captured the scenery through my window, while Phillip skillfully navigated (with me still controlling the gas pedal with my feet, of course — multitasking at its finest, haha).
Battery Rathbone McIndoe
After a short drive, we reached a what we thought to be a pair of bunkers, that offered commanding views of the western part of San Francisco. Ultimately, it was Battery Rathbone McIndoe that captured our attention. Initially intended for France during World War I, the conflict concluded prematurely, leading to the battery’s installation at its current location. During World War II, it served a crucial role in safeguarding the Golden Gate.
Eager to capture the scenery, we snapped photos of both the panoramic vistas and ourselves. I managed to capture a particularly cool shot of Phillip perched atop one of the bunkers. As we gazed out, we spotted a black sand beach nestled below the slopes, piquing our curiosity with the possibility of a spectacular view of the Golden Gate Bridge. Disappointingly, we discovered there wasn’t a clear path to access it. Nevertheless, from our vantage point, we also enjoyed a splendid view of a distant lighthouse.
Sublime Clifftop Exploration
After fifteen minutes, we resumed our journey along the single-lane one-way road, eventually arriving at the lighthouse parking area. Despite the lighthouse being closed, Phillip informed me that we could still venture up to the cliffs, which promised a breathtaking view. The winds were particularly strong in this area, adding to the dramatic atmosphere.
We completed the trail and turned back when we reached the closed tunnel, realizing that the Point Bonita Lighthouse had shut down for the day, as it was past 5 pm. Nevertheless, we didn’t feel disappointed; it had been an incredible day. On our way back to the car, we were treated to a delightful encounter with some wildlife. I managed to capture a stunning close-up of a bird, and to our surprise, we spotted a deer on the slopes nearby. Remarkably, the deer seemed unbothered by our presence and even approached us. It was an unforgettable experience.
Back to San Francisco
Before departing, we made a stop at the car park restroom. It was one of those eco-toilets where flushing wasn’t an option; instead, everything went into a large hole. While using it, you could see all the waste and toilet paper below, which wasn’t particularly pleasant. However, the real challenge was the overpowering smell. It was so intense that it easily ranked among the top three smelliest toilets I’d ever encountered. I had to hold my nose the entire time I was using it, and I’m pretty sure I set a new personal record for the shortest pee time.
We drove back to San Francisco, taking the one-way road that led us through the scenic backcountry. While the countryside was hilly and picturesque, the views of the bay were truly stunning. Once we were back on the bridge, we filmed a mini movie for Facebook (down below). The song accompanying the video was cool, but I couldn’t help but disagree with some of the lyrics (“in the streets of San Francisco, gentle people with flowers in their hair”). I joked that Scott McKenzie must have been exploring different streets, but then again, it was probably a different scene in the ’60s.
Laundry Adventures and Suspicious Observations
Upon returning to the hostel, I felt utterly exhausted from the day’s adventures. It was quite a whirlwind. Needing to do some laundry, I headed down the street since the hostel didn’t have laundry facilities. Carrying my clothes with me, I walked about 50 meters to the laundromat. I felt relieved to find security present at the laundromat. However, during my short walk, I was approached and begged from twice. By around 8:30 pm, I returned to the dryer only to find the shop closed. Thankfully, a kind girl allowed me to finish my laundry cycle.
In the evening, Phillip alerted me to a guy across the street who seemed to be taking pictures of us. It suddenly made sense of the occasional flashes we had noticed. “Did you see that flash too?” I asked. Phillip confirmed that he did. It was bizarre. Unable to shake off the unease, we decided to close the windows and discreetly observe the man ourselves, using my camera’s 30x zoom lens.
More Eccentric Inhabitants
Phillip suggested grabbing some food, even though I wasn’t particularly hungry at the moment. I promised to eat later when I felt hungry. By around 11 pm, I was ready to head out. Phillip found a nearby restaurant, and we walked two or three blocks to reach it.
As night fell, we found ourselves more exposed to the eccentricities of the city’s inhabitants compared to the daytime. It was a surreal experience. While I hadn’t noticed, Phillip certainly did: “Did you see that? That lady just crouched in front of us and started to pee in the middle of the street,” he exclaimed, clearly astonished. A few minutes later, we witnessed a homeless individual selling a withered bush of weed to another passerby. Continuing on, we passed by several homeless individuals with blankets spread out on the ground displaying various items for sale. I didn’t pay much attention to what they were selling; my priority was getting our food and returning to the hostel. However, I couldn’t help but observe as Phillip offered to assist a homeless man folding his blanket. Phillip’s willingness to help out never ceased to amaze me.
Within just five minutes (yes, all these events unfolded rapidly), we reached the restaurant, only to find it closed. We quickly devised a new plan: grab some fast-food pizza. Phillip recalled a nearby shop, so we set off, walking three blocks until we spotted it. Along the way, we encountered several groups of people, some of which seemed to be gangs, congregating in threes. As we made our way to New York Pizza, one individual approached us, brandishing a visibly worn pair of black earphones. “Hey guys, wanna buy these earphones for 5 dollars?” he asked. Politely declining his offer, we continued on our way.
Concluding with a Last Strange Encounter in the Pizza Shop
Upon arriving at the pizza shop, we placed our orders and waited patiently. While we waited, another customer, a girl, also ordered a pizza. Initially, she appeared cheerful to me. However, my perception swiftly shifted when she began rhythmically bumping her pelvis against the wall adjacent to the counter—not once, but twice—before abruptly exiting the shop. In that moment, I couldn’t help but think, “And there’s another crazy person. What on earth is happening in this city!?”
We waited for about 10-15 minutes for our pizzas. On the way back, nothing eventful occurred, but the experience left a lasting impression on me. Walking through San Francisco at night was quite an eye-opener, and I couldn’t shake the feeling of unease. The internet reviews of the hostel echoed my sentiments about the neighborhood: “A dodgy neighborhood,” “Not safe to walk around here at night,” and “Lots of homeless people around the hostel.” Sadly, these observations rang true.
Upon returning to the hostel, we indulged in our pizzas before retiring to bed late. The following day marked our check-out, thankfully scheduled for 11 am.
