Today, I embark on an adventure along the captivating State Highway 4 in New Zealand, where every twist and turn promises a journey filled with scenic delights. Embracing the morning vibes, I sprang out of bed, indulging in a refreshing shower and a quick tooth-brushing ritual. By 10 am, I bid farewell to the quirky hostel in Palmerston North, setting my sights on the legendary Tongariro National Park—renowned as the breathtaking backdrop for Mordor.
Quaint Beginnings in Palmerston North
The day ahead was tinged with uncertainty, thanks to the ominous rain forecast. However, as I stepped out, the weather seemed to defy expectations, offering a surprisingly pleasant start. New Zealand’s autumn, in my experience, boasts a mild charm, a stark contrast to the dreary clouds and rain typical of falls in the Netherlands.
Prepping for the road, I topped up my fuel in Palmerston North. Armed with Google Maps’ guidance, I embarked on a 200-kilometer journey to National Park, the gateway to Tongariro National Park. The anticipated travel time was 2.5 hours.
As I cruised along the scenic route, picturesque green hills unfolded before me, evoking a sense of déjà vu from the enchanting hobbit landscapes in Lord of the Rings. Little did I know, I would be stepping into that fantastical realm in just a few days.
Half an hour into my journey, I opted for a belated breakfast in the small town of Bulls. I grabbed a chicken teriyaki subway, savoring every bite inside the cozy confines of the store.
Whanganui’s Charming Interlude
An hour later, I reached Whanganui, a charming town that immediately caught my eye. Eager to gather information about the Tongariro National Park, I headed to the I-site building. Its strategic location by the scenic Whanganui River offered a marvelous view! After parking my car, I strolled towards the riverbank, capturing some breathtaking pictures before diving into my quest for information.
The helpful lady at the reception desk provided me with valuable assistance, detailing the renowned Alpine Crossing—a challenging 8-hour trek amid stunning landscapes. Acknowledging my current fitness level, I admitted that even a moderate hike, like the one I experienced yesterday, would leave me fatigued after just an hour these days.
The ladies handed me a map along with some helpful information. Crossing my fingers for favorable weather at Tongariro National Park this afternoon, especially since the forecast predicted rain for the next two days.
Opting not to linger in Whanganui, I pressed on with my journey towards the north, anticipating another 1.5 hours on the road.
Navigating Winding Roads: A Love-Hate Affair
As I progressed, winding roads appeared once more. After nearly two months of driving, I developed a distaste for the twists and turns, finding them cumbersome and slowing me down. I refrained from capturing any photographs on these roads due to the hazards posed by both traffic and the sharp bends.
The unpredictable length of these roads always keeps me guessing. It’s amusing how the initial 10 kilometers through these landscapes thrill me, only for the longing for straight roads to kick in afterward. Eventually, navigating these winding, uphill roads attracts a local tailgater behind me.
After some time, I decided to pull over for a quick snapshot of the picturesque landscape to my left. It was a stunning scene reminiscent of the Shire. However, the sky was gradually filling with white clouds, a sight that didn’t sit well with me.
Picturesque Pause: Capturing the Shire-Like Landscape
About 10 to 15 minutes later, I decided to pull over again, this time for a well-deserved break. Having been on the road for an hour, hunger and thirst were catching up with me. I discovered a scenic lookout and parked for a moment of reprieve. While savoring a delicious ripe banana, I gazed at the majestic Raukawa Falls. To the left of the falls, steep hills were adorned with grazing cows and sheep. If you’re up for a challenge, try counting the dots on the third picture – each one represents a sheep!
Fifteen minutes later, I resumed my journey toward the town of National Park, situated adjacent to Tongariro National Park. Approximately 30-45 minutes later, I reached my destination. The sight of mountains reappearing was truly exhilarating—I absolutely adore it.
Reaching National Park: Mountains Beckon
Navigating through the small town of National Park, I found myself uncertain about my next move. I parked the car beside a quaint establishment that seemed to double as both a restaurant and a train station—although, I must admit, I wasn’t entirely sure. I snapped a quick picture of the train and proceeded with my journey. While there were accommodations in the area, I planned to explore them later. My preference was already leaning towards the YHA hostel; according to Wikicamps, they offered campsites for 15 dollars per night.
Within the national park, there was only one road that noticeably ascended— the route leading to Mount Ngauruhoe and its renowned Whakapapa Ski Area. My sole desire was to witness Mount Doom and explore one of the Lord of the Rings movie locations. Unfortunately, the presence of clouds thwarted my plans.
Clouded Hopes at Whakapapa Ski Area
Undeterred, I drove towards the initial town, Whakapapa, a mere 10 kilometers from National Park. Opting to press on, I headed towards the ski lifts. Upon reaching them after 6 kilometers, I discovered that they weren’t in operation, but that detail didn’t bother me. The movie location was in close proximity, yet obscured by the thick cloud cover. Despite capturing some pictures of the area below the mountain, I returned to National Park disheartened. It seemed Boromir’s cautionary words were indeed justified.
Late-Night Retreat: The Challenge of Car Camping
Upon reaching the hostel, I secured a camping spot (or more accurately, a space for my car) for 15 dollars. The entire evening was spent in their kitchen, immersed in article writing for the blog. Snacking on some candy and sipping drinks, I engaged in conversations with colleagues, shared pictures on Facebook, and conducted internet research. I relished the fact that my SIM card had ample data; I seamlessly transformed my phone into a Wi-Fi hotspot for my laptop, and it worked flawlessly.
At around 2 am, I reluctantly made my way to my car. The rain had been relentless all evening, and I couldn’t help but despise it. I opted not to drive around earlier, a decision I regretted after just an hour. The car interior was freezing cold, fueling my determination to secure a hostel bed for a comfortable night’s sleep tomorrow—lesson learned, haha.
