Today, my destination is the Putangirua Pinnacles, the filming location of the Dimholt Road scene from Lord of the Rings. Yesterday, I arrived here to sleep in my car, ensuring I would be the first and sole adventurer on the trail this morning. And it looks like my plan has worked out perfectly! Around 10 am, I awoke to a delightful day, exactly as forecasted by Google. The sky was clear, bathed in a brilliant blue, and the sun cast its warmth. The car held a comfortable temperature, and the previous night’s chill had subsided. After attending to morning rituals—visiting the toilet and brushing my teeth—I made the decision to embark on my walk.
Morning Expedition and Trail Decision
I fetched a Coke and two nutritious cookies from the car, intending to enjoy them later during my hike. As I approached the hiking trail of the Putangirua Pinnacles, I took a moment to examine the trail sign.
Opting for the outlook track, I estimated a 1.5-hour hike, but it ended up taking me two hours. I misjudged the trail, and the journey turned out to be quite strenuous.
Navigating the trail of the Putangirua Pinnacles, I enjoyed traversing the streambed. After 5 minutes, a decision presented itself: continue with the bushwalk or opt for the streambed stroll. Choosing the latter, I realized it might not have been the wisest choice in sneakers. Fortunately, the small river posed no serious challenge, and the crossings were minimal and easy—I managed to stay completely dry.
In Search of the Elusive Outlook
I continued walking, but there was no indication of an incline. Typically, outlooks are situated at higher points, and after 30 minutes of walking along the streambed, I couldn’t spot one. A steep hill loomed on my right side, resembling the location used for the Dimholt Road scene in Lord of the Rings, although uncertainty lingered. Given the vastness of the area of the Putangirua Pinnacles and my limited time, I sighed, contemplating my next move.
Ascending a pebble-strewn hill, I covered about 100 meters before opting to descend back to the streambed. My intention was simply to catch a glimpse of the outlook and then make my way back to the car. Fifteen minutes later, I discovered the path leading back into the bushes of the Putangirua Pinnacles. Confident that this was the trail to the outlook, I noticed it growing steeper with each step, the road zigzagging its way upward.
Taking numerous brief rests on the steep path, I felt frustrated with my fatigue. The months of traveling by car had evidently taken a toll on my stamina. The hike in Abel Tasman a few days ago felt like a breeze compared to this, mainly because of the minor inclines. The ascent of the Pinnacles brought back memories of the arduous trek up the Kerinci Volcano in Indonesia, although that was truly a next-level strenuous experience compared to the current hike.
Pausing to capture some pictures of the river I had walked along 30 minutes earlier, I reflected on my choice to opt for the bushwalk instead.
Dehydration, Delight, and Decisions
At last, I arrived. The first order of business was cracking open my Coke, as I was quite dehydrated by this point. Regret set in for not having breakfast earlier. The initial batch of cookies vanished in a flash—they were truly delicious. Taking in the view, I also snapped some pictures.
Fifteen minutes later, I opted to head back. Since the trail to the outlook formed a large loop, I chose to return through the bushwalk. Although it was a lengthy path with numerous stairs, the breathtaking views along the way made it all worthwhile!
The Loop Back: Bushwalk and Breathtaking Views
I was pleased with my decision to go with the streambed walk of the Putangirua Pinnacles. While the bush walk would have been more challenging, the views were undoubtedly superior. In the distance, the mountains of the South Island came into view—truly incredible. The weather was fantastic.
Ultimately, I retraced my steps back to my car and contemplated my next move. Opting to recharge my laptop, I set my sights on the library in Featherston, situated 40 kilometers away. Being the first major city along the highway, it boasted a library where I could charge up my device.
Library Pit Stop and Internet Marvels
The library was small, but that suited me just fine. This afternoon, it was pleasantly uncrowded. I was impressed by the internet speed, although it could be because not many people were using it. I dedicated three hours to work and, in the meantime, found a camp spot online. At around 4 pm, I made the decision to drive there, and the journey was estimated to take about 2 hours. My goal was to head as far north as possible. Tomorrow, I planned to explore the Tongariro National Park, the location featured in Lord of the Rings as Mordor.
As dusk settled in, I reached my campsite—or more accurately, a car park with no sign of a toilet. I spent an hour relaxing in the car, catching up on some episodes of How I Met Your Mother. By 7 pm, I concluded that the location seemed rather sketchy. Opting for a change of plans, I searched for the nearest hostel, which turned out to be 20 kilometers away in Palmerston North.
Quirky Hostel Adventures
Upon reaching the destination, I found myself at this quirky hostel, which was essentially a sizable house with dormitories. The place was adorned with signs scattered throughout—reminders to flush the toilet, mop the excess water after a shower, label your food, follow microwave guidelines, and so on. Check-out time was set at 10 am, signaling the need to vacate the premises. It was a delightful and amusing setup, and I found myself laughing a lot that evening. Considering the playful atmosphere, I even contemplated creating my own sign for the toilet, offering instructions for the two buttons commonly found in toilets in Australia and New Zealand—one for a full flush and the other for a half flush. The signs around the hostel had a distinctly childish charm, clearly catering to the party backpacker crowd, and I couldn’t help but find it amusing.
Private Dorm Delight
The hostel lady assigned me to a dorm with another guy, a friendly French fellow. Initially, I had hoped for a dorm to myself, envisioning a tranquil space for focused work. In the evening, while working on articles in the kitchen, the lady inquired about my activities. At 11 pm, she politely requested that I turn off the lights when I retired for the night. I explained that I was writing for my blog and estimated needing at least two more hours, perhaps more, as it could be quite demanding, especially with a substantial amount of content to cover.
To my surprise, she suggested, “You know what, get your belongings from the dorm and use the private one to work.” Grateful for the offer, I moved my belongings to the designated private dorm. Now with my own space, I relished the newfound privacy. Engaging in internet research, chatting with some acquaintances, and making plans, I eventually called it a night around 2 am.
