Today, my plan is to trek through Abel Tasman National Park by taking a water taxi to a beach, where I’ll embark on a walk to another beach for pick-up. I woke up at 8 am thanks to my reliable alarm. After resetting it for 8:30 am, I caught a bit more sleep. Once it signaled the new wake-up time, I promptly brushed my teeth and used the restroom. Exiting the campsite, I headed towards the harbor, conveniently located just 50 meters away. Kaiteriteri was indeed a small village.
Ferry Boarding and Coastal Views
The day began beautifully with bright sunshine, clear blue skies, and scattered clouds. It hinted at being a fantastic day for exploring Abel Tasman National Park on foot. After checking in at the Abel Tasman AquaTaxi office (seen in the second picture above), I noticed that the campsite where I spent the previous night was just to the right of it (as shown in the third picture above).
With about 10 other tourists, I waited on the beach for 15 minutes, anticipating the ferry that would transport us. I couldn’t help but wonder how many of them were embarking on the same trail as I was. The initial two hours would be spent admiring the coastline, and then I would be dropped off in the heart of the park to trek an 11-kilometer trail. The plan was to be picked up at 3:30 pm at Anchorage Beach.
Being the first to board the ferry, I secured the best seat on the left side, ensuring a view of Abel Tasman National Parks coastline. As everyone settled in, I took some pictures of the beach and noticed a familiar figure walking towards the ferry. I couldn’t help but think, ‘Oh no, please don’t tell me she is coming too.’ It turned out to be Birgit (wearing a green coat), the German woman from the Laughing Kiwi hostel whom I had met two days ago. It’s not that she is unpleasant, but I wasn’t in the mood for conversation. Fortunately, she hadn’t booked with our company and was waiting for another ferry on the beach. What a relief, haha.
Cruise Highlights and Island Stopover
The ferry departed promptly, embarking on a scenic cruise before my drop-off at Medlands Bay. From there, my plan was to hike 11 kilometers to Anchorage. Notably, Kaiteriteri marked the most southern point of the boat’s journey, with its northernmost destination being Totaranui, approximately 40 kilometers north of Kaiteriteri.
We sailed past the impressive Split Apple Rock, and, call me a romantic, but its sheer size gave it the appearance of a heart. The exact origin of the cleft remains a mystery, leading to numerous mythological stories surrounding this unique rock formation.
We cruised along the picturesque coastline, enjoying its beauty. The breeze became a bit chilly for me whenever the ferry accelerated, as I only had my vest and not my winter jacket. Anticipating that I would warm up after the initial 30 minutes of walking, I opted not to bring the winter jacket to avoid the inconvenience of its weight. Occasionally, I experienced that familiar ‘goosebump chill,’ but it was manageable. In two hours, I would begin my hike.
Our next destination was an island. Later in the afternoon, when we returned to Kaiteriteri, I planned to capture more pictures of the seals.
We made several stops at beaches of Abel Tasman National Park, and one of them I would explore later: Torrent Bay. There was a small private village there that had existed before the national park was opened.
We sailed past a massive boulder, resembling the size of a villa. Check out the pictures; the cruise was truly spectacular. Reaching the northernmost point of the ferry route, we then turned back. Making one final stop to observe some seals, I’ll skip ahead with a few photos.
Deserted Beauty: Alone at Medlands Bay
As we continued our journey, I disembarked at Medlands Bay. The guide instructed me to reach Anchorage by 3:30 pm for the pickup. With the time at 11:30 am, I strolled along the beach, witnessing the ferry depart. I anticipated other hikers to commence their journey, but to my surprise, I found myself alone. The sight of the ferry sailing away, leaving me on this deserted beach, was simply amazing. I cherished the solitude. It seemed as though I had been abandoned to dwell on a deserted island—an odd sensation, yet one filled with a sense of joy. Embarking on the hiking trail, I captured a final image of the ferry as it disappeared into the distance.
Basking in the solitude, I relished the true paradise feeling. Opting to commence my walk, I faced a choice: I could cross the beach at Torrent Bay, as the tide would be low until 2 pm; alternatively, I could take the high tide track, a 1.5-hour journey, once the tide rose after 2 pm. The beach route promised a swift 30-minute passage.
Commencement of the hike
The stroll to Torrent Bay in Abel Tasman National Park consumed 1.5 hours, leading me through small loops along the hills’ slopes. As I neared rivers, the forest darkened, sunlight struggling to penetrate the thick foliage, causing a 5-degree temperature drop. Despite this, glimpses of stunning beaches through the bushes captivated my attention. A highlight was crossing a swing bridge over a river, offering an amazing experience, complemented by a waterfall to the far right.
After an hour, the lengthy road became monotonous, featuring the same scenery repeatedly. Despite the boredom, the breathtaking views of the beaches kept me engaged. I opted not to explore the beach surrounded by the forest, Frenchman Bay, as I wanted to allocate all my time to the hike. The sight of Torrent Bay, as depicted in the last three pictures above, was truly spectacular. Anchorage beach, shown in the third picture, was located behind a sizable hill. To reach it, my plan was to traverse the now-exposed beach area, seen in the second picture of the last row, owing to the receding low tide.
Torrent Bay Adventure: Low Tide vs. High Tide
I strolled through the village and used one of those dreadful eco toilets at the road’s end. The smell was awful, and the cabin was infested with sandflies. Moving towards the beach I intended to cross, I spotted two fellow backpackers in the distance. They were traversing a small stream with their boots on. Not wanting to get wet or remove my boots, I attempted to find an alternative route around the small rivers.
The first stream posed no problem; I discovered a narrow passage to cross. The next river, however, proved wider and more challenging. While attempting to backtrack, one of my boots suddenly became stuck in the mud. Balancing carefully, I swiftly removed my sock and stepped into the mud. “F***ING HELL,” I exclaimed. Doing what was necessary, I took off my other boot and sock, continuing barefoot.
Navigating rivers, mud, and humorous memories
This incident brought to mind a similar experience with my friend in the Netherlands. While hiking through a natural park, a tidal inlet “het Zwin”, shaped by low and high tides, my friend, reluctant to jump over a small creek, followed our guide’s advice and attempted to cross elsewhere. He ended up about 300 meters away, taking a huge detour around the creek. Losing one of his shoes in the mud in the distance, he had to leap over several other creeks. Our guide, spotting someone in the distance coming from the opposite direction, inquired, “Who’s that young guy in the distance?” “Haha, he’s with us,” my friend and I informed the guide. He returned, covered in scratches from the water plants and completely muddy. Such a humorous moment.
Returning to my story that took place in Abel Tasman National Park, I strolled across the sands, carefully navigating around the sharp sea shells. I was certain I had acquired some minor cuts, nothing too serious. The small rivers were ice-cold, adding a refreshing touch to the walk. It was fascinating to imagine how this section of Torrent Bay would be entirely submerged in water later in the afternoon.
Anchorage Arrival and Leisure
I reached the opposite side of the bay swiftly. It was approximately 1:30 pm when I arrived at Anchorage beach. I ascended a few stairs and descended a short path, taking only about 5 minutes. With two hours to spare, I settled on the beach, armed with my last Coke and some chocolate. I found a spot, read through some brochures from my bag, and regretted not bringing my Game of Thrones book. Nevertheless, I strolled around, explored the campsite, washed my feet, and made a quick visit to the restroom.
Observing the Bay Change and Farewell
At approximately 3 pm, I retraced my steps from Anchorage to Torrent Bay, observing how the water was gradually filling up the bay. While I would have enjoyed staying to witness the transformation, the impending arrival of the water taxi prompted me to head back. I lingered for an additional 10 minutes, and soon enough, I spotted the ferry in the distance. It was time to bid farewell.
Return Journey: Seals and Split Apple Rock
The journey back to Kaiteriteri took a mere 30 minutes. During our return, we made stops at Tonga Island to observe additional seals and took a brief pause at the iconic Split Apple Rock.
Upon reaching Kaiteriteri, I took off my shoes as my feet were aching. Reacquainting myself with the hiking boots, I sensed blisters forming. Once ready to leave Abel Tasman National Park, I drove towards Motueka, bypassing any stops, and continued onward to Nelson. Consulting Wikicamps, I discovered the possibility of overnight parking at the car park adjacent to the I-Site center, solidifying my accommodation plans for the night.
Dinner Delights at Lone Star
Nelson proved to be a charming city. Taking advantage of the 6 pm timing, I parked my car in the city center where parking was free. Strolling through the main street, I explored various establishments, including a pizzeria, a cinema, and several closed stores. After a quick visit to the restroom, I returned to my car to retrieve my laptop bag. My quest for a suitable spot to dine and power up my laptop led me to another street adorned with restaurants. While the small Italian pizzeria lacked power sockets, I continued my search and found a Western-style restaurant named ‘Lone Star.’ Though it exceeded my budget, I decided to treat myself and savor a delightful meal. Lone Star turned out to be a fantastic family restaurant, offering incredible hospitality and a relaxing atmosphere.
Requesting a table equipped with a power socket, I was instructed to wait at the bar by the friendly girl. Upon her return, she guided me to a table. I ordered a drink and awaited information about the specials from her colleague. Jaimy, my delightful waitress, took care of me. Opting for some delicious nachos as a starter and cajun chicken as my main course, I requested a one-hour interval between the two meals. Jaimy kindly informed me that the nachos were quite filling.
Oh, this Mexican feast was absolutely divine! Being a fan of Mexican cuisine, those nachos were a burst of flavor—though admittedly not the healthiest choice, haha. Despite that, I relished every bite and felt thoroughly satisfied. Making significant headway on my articles and conducting some online research, I noticed it was around 7:45 pm when my main course arrived. Let me tell you, that cajun chicken was the most delectable I’ve had in months; I absolutely loved it.
Movie Plans
While scouting for movies at the cinema, I discovered that “Bad Neighbors” was set to start at 8:30 pm. By 8 pm, I had wrapped up my meal, fully charged my laptop—an amazing feat. Settling the bill, I handed over 60 dollars, including a generous 10-dollar tip (yes, I like to think of myself as a nice guy ;)).
I hurried back to my car and stowed my laptop on the back seat. Driving to the I-site car park adjacent to the cinema, I found a sizable line forming. While waiting, I engaged in a brief WhatsApp conversation with my eldest brother. Upon purchasing a ticket, I settled into the theater, and wow, what a fantastic movie! I thoroughly enjoyed it from start to finish. The humor resonated with me, and it made me miss my friends back home; it would have been perfect to watch it with them over a few beers. If you’re a fan of Seth Rogen’s movies, “Bad Neighbors” is definitely a must-watch.
A Night’s Rest
Following the movie, it was 11:30 pm, and I strolled back to my car. Initially, I drove around the city until the engine reached operating temperature and the car’s heater had warmed it up. Subsequently, I parked the car next to the I-site center. Engaging in a few episodes of How I Met Your Mother, I finally retired around 1 am. Despite some noise from people outside around that time, they dispersed shortly afterward. What a day packed with enjoyable activities it had been.
