Today, my plan was to explore the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge, and despite my initial skepticism, the experience proved to be quite enjoyable for the 5 NZD admission fee. I woke up at 9 am, stepped out of the car, and plugged my laptop into the power socket at the hostel. The common area of the hostel, resembling a small barn, was sheltered under plastic panes. Accessibility was convenient for me with a door right beside the car park. This arrangement made reaching the toilets a breeze—just a short 10-meter walk, as opposed to circling the building for 30 meters.
Uploading Challenges
I plugged in my computer, connected to the WiFi, and initiated the upload. With another 4000 files to upload and a less than stellar connection, I anticipated a time-consuming process. A busy day lay ahead, contemplating whether to head straight to Nelson and extend my stay on the northern island or opt for Motueka and dedicate two days to exploring the Abel Tasman National Park. The final decision would come later.
While Filezilla diligently uploaded all my website files, I took the opportunity to enjoy my breakfast and attempted to unwind. Periodically, I had to reconnect to ensure the smooth progress of the upload. By around 10 am, the upload completed, and I decided to let my laptop charge fully, waiting until it reached 95%. It was at this point, around 10.30 am, that the manager approached me, inquiring if I wanted to book another night or depart.
Despite knowing I was supposed to leave by 10 am, I pretended to be unaware, exclaiming, ‘Oh, I didn’t realize it was that late. No worries, I’ll leave right away.’ Secretly, I was relieved; I had been eagerly awaiting this moment for the past 30 minutes, knowing my laptop was adequately charged for the evening ahead. In hindsight, the timing was inconsequential since I was heading to a hostel. Reflecting on my experience later, I realized I should have opted for camping, as the next hostel left much to be desired.
Travel Dilemmas
Departing from the hostel, I navigated my way out of Westport. My first stop involved grabbing some groceries at New World, followed by a leisurely breakfast at Subway. Taking a moment to relax, I braced myself for the long day ahead. The journey to either Nelson or Motueka awaited, covering a distance of 225 kilometers. Still torn between the two destinations, both equidistant from my current location, I weighed the options. Despite Motueka being slightly more north than Nelson, practical considerations led me to choose Nelson, serving as the gateway to Picton—the harbor town where the ferry would depart for the northern island.
Exploring Buller Gorge: A Scenic Break
The roads proved more challenging than anticipated, featuring numerous bends. To my left, the picturesque Buller Gorge river unfolded, prompting me to capture a few moments through photographs. Despite the cloudy weather and occasional drizzle, nothing too bothersome, the journey continued. The sparse presence of other cars added to the charm, allowing me to relish those moments when the road belonged entirely to me.
After enduring 30 minutes of winding roads, I felt the need for a break. I pulled over at Lyell Camping Ground – Buller Gorge to refresh with a drink and stretch my legs. The rest area surprised me with its pleasant ambiance. Intrigued by a small track leading to a cemetery, I decided to explore. However, after just 50 meters, my journey was cut short. A washout blocked the path, and attempting to navigate the trail ahead seemed too risky due to the possibility of slipping. Disappointed, I retraced my steps back to the car.
Upon reflection on this hike, I observe that upon crossing the first bridge, a fence has been installed at the left turn, compelling you to turn right. This redirection leads you along the Old Ghost Road, an extraordinary rediscovery of a long-forgotten gold miners’ trail, celebrated with positive reviews from fellow hikers. You can find more information about the trail here. Reflecting on this as I rewrite this blog in 2024, given more time, I would certainly embark on a day hike along that trail!
I quickly used the restroom before departing. Returning to the main road, I snapped some pictures through the car window, taking advantage of the elevation for a scenic view of the Buller Gorge river.
Buller Gorge Swing Bridge Adventure
I drove another 10 kilometers and reached the sign indicating a ‘swing bridge.’ Having read about it earlier, I decided to investigate. However, my enthusiasm waned when I discovered Buller Gorge Swing Bridge was an amusement park, likely requiring a hefty entrance fee. Anticipating crowds of children and overrated touristy attractions, I entered the building and inquired about the admission cost.
They informed me that the entrance fee for the bridge was 5 NZD. Since I had a long drive ahead, with several planned rest stops, this seemed like the only activity for the day. Reluctantly, I handed the woman 5 dollars, and she provided some information about the park, mentioning a short 15-minute walking trail on the island. I strolled toward the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge, captivated by the breathtaking views. The proximity to the roaring river was truly exhilarating.
The peninsula
I crossed the Buller Gorge Swing Bridge and commenced my hike. Contrary to my expectations of mud, the clever owners had installed a wooden footway. The solitude of the area was enchanting, with no one in sight, allowing me to have the entire peninsula to myself. I took the opportunity to capture some beautiful moments, aided by the cooperative birds in the vicinity.
The loop track took me a total of 30 minutes. Although the weather was cloudy, it remained dry. Along the track, numerous information signs provided insights into the Buller Gorge River and its history. This location had once served as a camp for gold diggers. The impact of the 1929 earthquake in Murchison, a nearby village, was still evident. The displacement of the earth, particularly pronounced in this area, showcased some sections thrust 4.5 meters upward. Signs marked the location of the faultline in the surrounding area.
I retraced my steps toward the bridge, capturing some photos from the lookout near the picnic table. Following that, I headed back toward the bridge.
On the bridge’s midpoint, I savored the moment, capturing some beautiful pictures. Using my camera, I recorded short videos, and later, I shared a 30-second clip on my Facebook page. I thoroughly enjoyed the process.
On the opposite side of the river, the side with the car park, I took a final shot of the bridge. Afterward, I utilized the park’s restroom facilities before resuming my journey. I had approximately 60 kilometers to go, deciding between Motueka or Nelson.
Motueka Bound: A Change of Plans
Upon reaching the junction for Motueka and Nelson, a decision awaited me. While I was eager to explore the Abel Tasman National Park, I was aware that it might consume a couple of days. Initially heading toward Nelson, a sudden change of heart occurred after passing the intersection. Without hesitation, I pulled over, executed a U-turn, and opted to head to Motueka to experience the national park. Encouraged by Johan, a fellow traveler I met in Cameron Highlands, Malaysia, who declared it as his favorite national park in New Zealand, I was determined to embark on this adventure with the financial means to support it.
Motueka’s Agricultural Landscape
The journey toward Motueka unfolded along a picturesque route adorned with stunning autumn hues. My path led me through expanses of both forested areas and farmlands. Despite the scenic views, the specific type of farmland remained a mystery to me, as everywhere I turned, I encountered poles with lines stretching across the landscape.
I later discovered that Motueka is primarily an agricultural area, benefitting from its fertile land. While in the past, tobacco production thrived in this region, nowadays, Motueka is known for its harvests of apples, kiwifruit, and hops.
A persistent tailgater behind me made it difficult to capture more pictures. Frustrated, I missed out on photographing stunning, colorful stretches of trees alongside a picturesque river—scenes that could easily belong in the Lord of the Rings. Eventually, I decided to pull over and snap some pictures of the trees near a farm.
Kiwi Backpackers Experience: A Cozy Stopover
I reached Motueka around 5 pm and completed the check-in process at Kiwi Backpackers, a hostel with favorable online reviews. Opting for a dorm room, I was pleased with my choice. The receptionist instructed me to park my car behind the hostel, where he would meet me. After a brief tour and thorough explanation of the hostel’s facilities, I was pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome. The hostel had a cozy ambiance, but I didn’t engage socially as I needed to focus on my articles. In my room, I shared the space with two older women. One of them, Birgit from Germany, attempted to initiate a conversation, but I responded with brief answers, realizing it was one of the rare moments when I deliberately chose to be socially reserved. I simply wasn’t in the mood for interaction, and I found humor in my intentional social withdrawal.
Overcoming Snoring Woes: A Midnight Solution
At midnight, the two women in the room went to sleep, prompting me to follow suit 30 minutes later. Unfortunately, the woman in the bunk bed above me (not Birgit) turned out to be an enthusiastic snorer, making it a rather challenging night. The relentless snoring became increasingly annoying, and I found myself regretting my choice of staying in a hostel. After enduring 15 minutes of pure agony, I suddenly remembered that I had earphones in my pocket. Quickly inserting the in-ear earphones, I was relieved to hear nothing but silence, averting a potential disaster. Within five minutes, I drifted off to sleep.
