I touched down in Darwin around 3:00 am local time, en route to Cairns in Queensland, Australia. The time difference in Darwin was 1.5 hours ahead of Bali and 8.5 hours ahead of the Dutch time zone. Throughout the flight to Darwin, I enjoyed the comfort of the emergency exit seat. The flight attendant provided me with an immigrant questionnaire, featuring standard inquiries about my purpose in Australia, destination, and activities. I responded to yes-or-no questions such as whether I was a criminal or intended to reside in Australia.
I found myself needing to provide a respondent address on the questionnaire, yet, after two months of travel, I had none. Over time, I had grown confident that things would naturally fall into place, and the need for advanced bookings had diminished, especially in Australia where hostels dotted every street. My initial plan was to visit the car rental shop, collect my car, and set off from Cairns on the same day. Despite being a major backpackers hub, Cairns lacked significant attractions or activities.
Border Security: Australia’s Front Line
Upon disembarking the plane, I proceeded to immigration. “Good day, sir, how are you?” the man inquired. “I’m fine, how are you, sir?” I responded with enthusiasm. The man looked up, seemingly taken aback by my unexpected enthusiasm at this hour. With a slight frown, he requested my passport and questionnaire. “Where will you be staying tonight, Mr. Splinter?” he inquired. Responding, I explained, “Nowhere, sir. I have a domestic flight to Cairns this morning.” He pressed further, “I see, but where will you be staying that day then?” Bewildered by the interrogation, I wondered, “What does it matter? Can’t you see I’m just a backpacker?”
“I don’t know, sir. I’ll figure that out in the morning. I have the entire day to find a hostel, and there are thousands in Cairns. I should be fine,” I responded. The man grew visibly agitated and initiated a lecture: “Did you know that if this were the USA, you could not enter without accommodation?” he asserted, his tone becoming serious and drawing attention from onlookers. He emphasized that I should have provided an accommodation address. Apologetically, I admitted my lack of awareness and adopted a humble demeanor, although I couldn’t hide my dissatisfaction with the governmental interference. Ultimately, the man jotted down ‘Backpackers hostel,’ allowing me to proceed.
Security Surprises and Counter Quirks
Next, there was another security check. Presenting my boarding pass, the woman inquired if I had any alcohol or liquids with me. “No, miss, I don’t have any,” I replied. She appeared astonished and asked again, “Are you sure you don’t have anything?” I chuckled silently, recognizing her surprise, likely assuming someone of my age with a backpack would carry booze.
Subsequently, she directed me to join the line for a specialized 5-meter long scanning device. Her colleague instructed me to place everything on the belt, though I had nothing to declare, and I was allowed to proceed. Finally, I had reached the main entrance of the airport, only to find that I needed to check in my cabin baggage again due to specific rules for international domestic flight transits. During this process, the girl behind the counter displayed a surly and impatient demeanor. “What’s wrong with all these people, is it the time?” I pondered.
I spotted an ATM and decided to withdraw cash. The initial experience of holding a new country’s currency was always special for me, and this marked the first time I would have Australian dollars. However, my first attempt failed repeatedly, leading to frustration and loud cursing. I couldn’t help but think, ‘This is Malaysia all over again.’ Eventually, I resorted to using another card and successfully withdrew 200 AUD (Australian Dollars). The accompanying service fee left me irritated, as in Indonesia, I could withdraw money from almost any bank without incurring an additional charge.
Bomb Check
Subsequently, I proceeded through the security check to clear customs, navigating the process seamlessly. However, I was unexpectedly subjected to an additional check – a bomb check. Nervously, I explained to the lady that my daypack had been to a sulfur mine recently, and the distinct smell might be noticeable. Assuring me it was fine and irrelevant for this test, she clarified that the check only detected radiation. She then scanned me and my small daypack with a peculiar device, entering the module into the computer.
Following the bomb check, I received the all-clear, and she inquired about why I was carrying two laptops. Explaining that I needed to sell my old laptop since I had purchased a new one in Bali, she offered a valuable suggestion: consider selling it at a pawn shop, as they might offer a good price. Grateful for the advice, I couldn’t help but think, ‘See, Maarten, there are friendly people in Australia too!’ After completing the security check, I decided to purchase a coke, even though it was available everywhere for 3 dollars – a bit pricey. Opting for a more budget-friendly choice, I bought one at the small, somewhat sketchy Hungry Jack’s corner, a fast-food establishment.
Isn’t Something Missing
I found myself sitting alone, attempting to locate a power socket for my nearly depleted phone. Despite my efforts, I couldn’t find one, so I settled down with my coke. In that moment, I couldn’t help but long for Indonesia. Every airport there is equipped with electrical outlets, and the warmth and friendliness of the locals were sorely missed.
As I strolled to the toilets, thoughts of Indonesia filled my mind, and scrolling through my photos only deepened my sense of sadness. It took less than 24 hours for me to unexpectedly miss a country so dearly! Admittedly, I had never anticipated growing so fond of Indonesia. Inside Darwin International Airport, the desire to return to Indonesia was palpable. Once I finished my drink, I made my way to the gate for my next flight, hoping there might be a power socket available there.
As I strolled down the hallway, I observed numerous individuals filling out a questionnaire. Upon closer inspection, I learned that it was a requirement for Australians departing their country. My upcoming flight was an international one bound for Hong Kong, with a layover in Cairns (since my flight was domestic, I had to check in my baggage again). I grabbed a questionnaire and proceeded towards the gate.
Encountering Daniel: The Genesis of a Lifelong Friendship
I inquired with a young guy around my age, but he was equally clueless. He mentioned he was also heading to Cairns. Engaging in conversation about the bewildering security checks, we found ourselves waiting in line for the next one together. The situation seemed absurd. Interestingly, Daniel, the guy I had just met, had also undergone the bomb testing earlier, adding a humorous twist to our shared experience. Reflecting on this in 2024, it’s quite amusing to recall how I initially met someone who would become a lifelong friend. Subsequent to our encounter in Australia, I’ve visited Daniel multiple times in Germany, solidifying our bond and turning him into a true friend!
Daniel, a German backpacker, had been exploring Australia for an extended period. Freshly arrived from Perth, he was en route to meet his friend in Cairns for a final road trip along the east coast before heading back to Germany to commence his education. While waiting for boarding with Daniel, he shared valuable insights about Australia. Little did I realize at that moment that he would evolve into a lifelong international friend.
Daniel shared numerous incredible tips with me! He insisted I join him at the best hostel in Cairns, and his infectious enthusiasm quickly convinced me to follow his advice. I informed him about my seat at the emergency exit in the airplane and suggested he join me there. Later on, he successfully orchestrated a seat switch with my co-passenger just before boarding.
A Comedic Encounter
During our conversation, a senior man seated nearby joined in, displaying a great sense of humor and cracking jokes. Eventually, he playfully pointed out a large (heavily obese) woman in the queue in front of the terminal, turning to Daniel and teasing, ‘Isn’t that your girlfriend walking over there? Shouldn’t you be with her?’ Confused, Daniel clarified that she wasn’t, and we burst into laughter. This man certainly had some guts!
Our flight experienced a minor delay, but it was manageable. I chatted with Daniel for a bit, and eventually, I took a brief power nap on my foldable table. To my surprise, Daniel later informed me that I had snored quite loudly, audible to the entire plane. We landed in Cairns around 10 am. The airport interior reminded me of a hospital. Once again, we went through an immigration check and handed over our boarding passes.
As we waited for our baggage at the belt, I was about to capture a picture of a dog sniffing the bags when Daniel halted me. He advised against it, recounting how he had been sternly instructed to delete a similar picture in the past. Australia, he emphasized, had strict rules. ‘Rules are everywhere,’ I thought. In that moment, a flashback to Malaysia occurred, and I recalled Alex and Liam enlightening me about the regulations in Australia. Alex had mentioned that if the canals in Amsterdam were in Australia, the government would likely demarcate each and every single canal with fences, deeming them too unsafe for the public.
Arrival in Cairns
Having pre-arranged my transportation through Jetstar’s website, I was all set. After the flight, both Daniel and I headed to the counter to check in, and he also purchased a ticket with the company. The journey to the hostel took us only 20 minutes, and the road to Cairns already filled me with excitement. In that moment, I was elated, but little did I know that my mood would take a drastic turn a few hours later.
Daniel praised the hostel as the best, but as he listed the facilities, my concerns grew. The Wi-Fi came at a cost – 7 AUD for a full day, followed by 2 AUD per day in the subsequent days. The accommodation itself was reasonably priced at 16 AUD per night, but an additional 20 AUD deposit was required for the key. Furthermore, to use cutlery and a plate for personal meals, a 10 AUD deposit was mandated. While the expenses were manageable, the process proved to be a cumbersome and irritating ordeal. After each meal, I had to wait for the dishes to dry before returning the plate and cutlery to the reception.
The Asylum hostel was colossal, the largest I’ve experienced so far. The premises housed two massive buildings with numerous 4-bed dorms. Upon entering, the abundance of Western backpackers, including surfer boys and intimidating individuals, caught my attention. After settling into my 4-bed dorm, Daniel went to meet his friend Jonas. I later joined them, and Daniel introduced me to Jonas, who, like Daniel, hailed from Germany, and they had been friends for several years during high school.
Wicked Campers in Cairns
Daniel and Jonas offered to give me a tour, starting with a visit to Wicked Campers car rental. Subsequently, they planned to take me to Cairns Central, the local mall. I had previously made reservations at Wicked Campers for a car equipped with a roof tent, conveniently located near our hostel. Daniel, familiar with the area, guided us on a short 5-minute walk from the hostel to Wicked Campers. During our stroll, I had the chance to observe Cairns. It became apparent that I needed to reacclimate to the Western atmosphere. Similar to the USA, the neighborhood was laid out in organized blocks. What particularly stood out was the ample space – wide sidewalks and expansive roads.
The manager at Wicked Campers warmly greeted us, displaying friendliness and hospitality. He provided me with a four-pack of Red Bull, and both Daniel and Jonas received their share. After completing some paperwork, the shift in my mood occurred when I had to pay the security deposit using my credit card.
Security Deposit Setback
An error occurred, and the payment couldn’t be accepted due to reaching the credit limit on my card. I was aware that my bank imposed a 1000 euro limit on my credit card, but I had secured another credit card, Skrill, specifically for this situation, and I was confident its limit was sufficient. As of 2024, I have the option to increase the withdrawal limit of my credit card by adding funds to it. Unfortunately, this wasn’t a feature available at the time. In a direct discussion with a bank representative, I was informed that such an increase wasn’t possible. It seemed that very few things were achievable with this bank. Disappointing service from Rabobank.
Yet, I was frustrated once again as this hiccup threatened to disrupt my plan to leave Cairns that day with the rental car. Originally booked as a station wagon, I now had to forego sleeping in the car and opt for the hostel, incurring additional expenses.
A Common Pitfall
After numerous attempts, I conceded and realized I had no alternative. My efforts to contact the credit card company were fruitless as their office was based in the UK, and their phone lines operated only from 9 am to 5 pm. Considering the time zones, it was currently 2 am in the UK. I had to wait until at least 7 pm to make the necessary phone call. I informed the Wicked Campers manager that I would return the following day. He responded with kindness and sincerity, allowing me to use their Wi-Fi and power for my phone while waiting. He mentioned that this issue was a common occurrence for almost all travelers.
The security deposit required was 3000 AUD. This amount would be forfeited in the event of an accident or crash, but it would be refunded if the car was returned undamaged. Fortunately, I returned the car safely, even though I didn’t drop it off at Wicked Campers’ facility in Cairns. After leaving Wicked Campers, we headed to Cairns’ main mall, Cairns Central. Despite feeling somewhat down because things didn’t go as planned, I concealed my emotions from Daniel and Jonas to maintain a positive atmosphere. Daniel excitedly shared insights into Australian stores, highlighting Coles supermarket as the go-to place for groceries. Intrigued, we ventured inside for a look.
Cairns Central Shopping Centre
The Coles Supermarket was significantly larger than the supermarkets in the Netherlands. Describing its corporate identity as red is a vast understatement. As we passed the fruit section, memories of Indonesia flooded back, especially when I spotted mangosteen and rambutan. I couldn’t help but wish they were available back home. Throughout the day, thoughts of Indonesia surfaced regularly—whether I was using a western toilet, noticing high prices for items, or observing Asian people in the mall. These fleeting moments constantly drew comparisons between the two countries, casting a negative influence on my mood. Despite this, I dedicated my energy to concealing my emotions from Daniel and Jonas.
Eventually, we indulged in frozen Cokes from Hungry Jack’s, and Daniel and I devoured a substantial Subway sandwich due to our intense hunger. I hadn’t eaten since 11 o’clock the previous night, and Daniel had abstained from food since 6 o’clock. He was quite resilient, haha. Subsequently, we explored an electronics store, reminiscent of Halmi in Padang. Moving on, we stepped into an office products shop, where Daniel and Jonas procured an inexpensive cable for the car. In total, our outing from the hostel spanned an hour.
Cairns Esplanade Lagoon
Upon returning to the hostel, I promptly sent an email to the credit card company, anticipating a response within 24 hours via email. Later in the afternoon, I revisited the mall to grab another soda and take some pictures on my own. It was high time to explore Cairns. Surprisingly, the weather turned out to be better than expected. Contrary to what I read back home about Cairns experiencing rain 95% of the time, today’s weather was quite pleasant.
While at the mall, I engaged in some window shopping, grabbed a frozen coke at Hungry Jack’s, and strolled around. In the back of my mind, I was already formulating a backup plan just in case the credit card company did not respond or any other unfortunate event unfolded. Although I had ensured my card balance was sufficient back in Bali, I attempted to connect to the mall’s Wi-Fi at the food court, fully aware that the connection might be subpar.
Once more, Indonesia crossed my mind, prompting laughter at the sheer frequency with which it happened—perhaps the 300th time that day. It amused me to realize the depth of my fondness for that country. Post-mall exploration, I opted to visit the Esplanade lagoon, a conveniently short 5-minute walk from the mall and easy to locate with the help of a map from the hostel. The route was straightforward: exit the main entrance of the mall and proceed straight ahead. After covering a few blocks, I reached the lagoon.
A Public Nap
After hearing Daniel speak highly of it, I anticipated something akin to a lake. To my delight, I discovered a beautiful outdoor swimming pool that exceeded my expectations. The scenic view of the Great Barrier Reef and Coral Sea in the pool’s vicinity captivated me. My only regret was not bringing my swimming trunks. I strolled to the pool, laying down on the concrete fence. The tide had receded, leaving the small cove in front of the boulevard exposed.
The weather was splendid, with the perfect temperature and a gentle ocean breeze creating a wonderful atmosphere. I reclined, closed my eyes, and immediately felt a deep sense of relaxation. Soon, drowsiness crept in, prompting me to stand up after ten minutes. I concluded that it wasn’t a safe spot to doze off, considering the potential discomfort of falling from the ledge onto the rocks in the ocean (as seen in the upper right picture).
Strolling along the promenade, I discovered a bench and decided to lay down for a rest. The sensation was delightful, and within 10 minutes, I drifted into a peaceful slumber. It was unusual for me to fall asleep so swiftly, but this spot exuded a reassuring sense of security. Observing numerous people taking naps, I realized it was a common practice. After about an hour, I woke up feeling refreshed, and my mood had notably improved. Now, I felt optimistic about tomorrow, considering this delay as a minor hiccup in my itinerary. Rising to my feet, I captured some photos of the statues and headed back to the hostel, now in the late afternoon.
An Evening at the Asylum hostel
For dinner, I enjoyed pasta with green pesto in the company of Daniel and Jonas. Although we had planned to split the costs, they insisted on covering my share. Gratefully, I thanked them for their kindness. Eager to contribute, I offered to help with the dishes, but once again, they refused my assistance. I couldn’t help but feel thankful for meeting these two German guys. However, the circumstance meant I had to remain in Cairns instead of accompanying them on their journey.
I bought Wi-Fi access at the reception and delved into internet research. At 7 pm, I attempted a Skype call, as Skype offered a more economical rate at 0.04 cents per minute compared to the mobile phone’s 1.30 euros per minute Unfortunately, the poor Wi-Ficonnection hindered my efforts. Daniel advised me to retry around 10 pm when fewer people might be using the lobby’s Wi-Fi.
Last Call to the Credit Card Company
At 10 pm, I made another attempt. However, as the staff informed me that the reception was closing, I pleaded for ten more minutes, citing the importance of the call I needed to make. They agreed to this brief extension. After waiting in a queue for 3 minutes, just as I was on the verge of hanging up, the service employee answered. Fortunately, the connection remained stable as I explained my situation. To my relief, she assured me that everything would be resolved, allowing me to make a payment of up to 3000 euros within the next 24 hours.
That would be more than sufficient, as I needed to pay around 2500 euros. Excited by the news, I shared it with Daniel when we met. Knowing that he and Jonas were leaving the next morning, I bid them farewell, just in case I missed them in the morning rush. Deciding to visit the company early around 8:30 am the next day to attempt the payment, I continued to relax before heading to bed around midnight. The creaky and noisy beds likely disturbed my roommates as I climbed into my bunk in the four-person dorm. I set my alarm for 8:30 am.
