Today, the majestic Sekumpul Waterfall awaited me in blissful solitude. But before diving into the cascading beauty, let me unveil the title of today’s blog post—an exclusive dedication to my dear friends back home who doubted Bali’s allure due to flight durations or perceived lack of attractions. This one’s for you, my lovely friends winky face.
Roused by an insistent knock on my door, I groggily realized I had overslept. “Mr. Maarten, are you ready?” the voice called. “Just a minute, I’ll be at the beach,” I responded. Missing another meeting marked my second lapse, and I couldn’t help but envision the potential gossip circulating among the Hotel Suma staff regarding my reputation as a perennial latecomer. The dolphin trip, arranged the previous day while waiting for Ena, came at a cost of 80,000 IDR and promised a two-hour adventure. Despite the 5:30 am start time, my alarm failed to stir me from sleep.
A Splash of Water
In haste, I dressed, skipping my sandals due to time constraints and opting for sneakers. Rushing to the beach, my guide instructed me to wait, a bit frustrating as I could have retrieved my sandals. After a 10-minute delay, he escorted me to his compact fishing boat. By then, a multitude of other boats (approximately 50 in total) had already departed from the beach.
We departed as some of the last passengers, sharing the boat with a couple from China. I asked the man if it was alright to place my shoes in the back to keep them dry, to which he reassured me. Initially seated in the front, I soon regretted my choice as, after ten minutes, the man accelerated to catch up with the other boats. Consequently, water splashed onto my face intermittently, forcing me to hold my camera aloft to shield it from getting wet. It was at that moment I began regretting my decision to book this tour.
The Ridiculous Hunt for Dolphins
After an hour, we eventually caught up with the rest of the boats, considerably west of Lovina Beach. Finally, some action unfolded as we spotted a pod of dolphins. In a flash, all fifty boats revved their engines and eagerly pursued the marine spectacle. It felt more like a dolphin hunt than a leisurely dolphin tour—absolutely crazy, haha!
The dolphins played a game of hide-and-seek, diving underwater and resurfacing elsewhere. Catching a glimpse required luck, but fortunately, we got close twice. After 15 minutes, the dolphin pursuit concluded, and we headed back to Lovina Beach. Soggy and uncomfortable in my soaked pants, I found relief as our tour guide sailed back at a slower pace, eliminating the splashing. Closing my eyes, I basked in the sun that had risen. Eventually, I snapped some pictures of Lovina Beach from the boat.
Upon our return to the beach, I disembarked and spotted my shoes floating in a puddle of water at the boat’s end. This irked me, as the guy had assured they wouldn’t get wet. “These aren’t dry shoes, my friend,” I exclaimed. “Yes, they are wet; water came in the boat,” he nonchalantly responded. Frustrated by the ignorance, I paid him 80,000 IDR and departed. Trudging back to the hotel in my soaked shoes, I left them outside my cottage door, hoping the sun would expedite the drying process. Opting for my sandals in the following days, I knew it would take ages for the shoes to fully dry. I hoped for a drier experience at Sekumpul Waterfall this afternoon
Relaxing at Hotel Suma
Back at the hotel, I ordered breakfast, and a delightful girl named Luh served me. Sharing my adventure, she playfully teased, “You saw more boats than dolphins, didn’t you?” I chuckled; she was spot on. Later, Rosie and Susie mentioned spotting me in the sea of boats. Curious about their expenses, they revealed paying 40,000 IDR per person. Learning that the Chinese couple in my boat had paid 200,000 IDR per person, I resignedly accepted the 80,000 IDR scam. Unfamiliar with local prices, I acknowledged that scams in Bali were not uncommon. Fortunately, my previous experiences in Sumatra and Java had equipped me with a better understanding of reasonable rates, especially for renting mopeds.
Following breakfast, a guy approached me with the key to my rented moped, a deal I had secured the previous day. Securing a moped rental is fairly straightforward here—just state your price and stand firm. Yesterday, I had set my rate at 50,000 IDR per 24 hours, but the individuals at the main road refused, insisting on at least 100,000 IDR. Undeterred, I simply walked away, confident in the abundance of alternatives. Thankfully, it wasn’t like Malang, where acquiring a moped appeared downright absurd. Ultimately, I successfully arranged one through a waiter at the restaurant adjacent to Hotel Suma.
Exploring Bali: Waterfall Adventures
Later in the morning, I unwound by the swimming pool, engaging in delightful conversations with Rosie and Susie. They shared their plans of heading to the mountains for a few days, prompting me to bid them farewell as they checked out. Around noon, I decided to venture out from Hotel Suma and explore Bali. A colleague from the Amsterdam hospital had furnished me with a wealth of information about the island, including details about a hidden waterfall, the Sekumpul Waterfall. Described as remote and off the beaten path, it sounded like a slice of paradise. In the end, the Sekumpul Waterfall lived up to the hype, revealing their beauty in an unspoiled setting.
Ena provided straightforward directions, making the route quite easy to follow. A simple left turn onto the main road, then a scenic coastal drive for 30 minutes before taking a right turn and continuing for another half hour to the Sekumpul Waterfall. The weather, unfortunately, was overcast—a personal dislike of mine.
Along the journey, I made a brief stop at a pharmacy to purchase some essential medicines, including hydrocortisone cream and plasters. It occurred to me that I needed a considerable amount of plasters, a revelation I found rather crazy. If only I had realized at home that I would need this many plasters—quite surprising. Occasionally, my eczema would flare up, particularly on my elbows, presenting a mild yet bothersome inconvenience. However, the silver lining of this journey was the apparent cure of my eczema on my hands, a transformation I attribute to the humidity of the Asian climate.
The Queen of Fruit
After an hour’s journey, I reached the Sekumpul Waterfall and parked my moped in a local’s designated private area. The gentleman there displayed great hospitality, even providing me with a complimentary umbrella. Inquiring about some light refreshments and the duration of the hike, I was pleasantly overwhelmed as the man generously presented me with an abundance of fruit. Two substantial bunches of Indonesian lychees and a yet-to-be-identified local Balinese delicacy, which I later discovered to be mangosteen, made up this delightful surprise.
He mentioned it would take me two hours from here, which seemed odd, considering Ena had informed me that the hike would only take one hour. Despite the gray and gloomy weather, I pressed on. Occasionally, it drizzled, making the paths wet and slippery.
The Waterfall Viewpoint
Navigating the path in my sandals required caution, especially on the sections covered in moss, making it extremely slippery. After a couple of slides, I developed a technique for a safe descent. Upon reaching the first viewpoint, perched atop a series of stairs, I was spellbound, exclaiming a heartfelt ‘Wow.’ The waterfalls unfolded before me—majestic and awe-inspiring. The prominent one stood to my left, while another graced the far distance to the right. Descending the stairs, I felt like I had stepped into a cinematic scene. Surrounded by nature, with no other tourists in sight, it was a surreal experience.
The stairs showed signs of neglect. While the initial sections had fences, the most perilous parts lacked any protective barriers. At times, I paused to capture images of bugs, the river, and the wooden bridge. This place had a special charm that I thoroughly enjoyed!
Pure Bliss at the Waterfall
Upon reaching the river, I traversed the wooden bridge and veered left onto a narrow muddy path leading to the Sekumpul Waterfall. In solitude, a sense of tranquility enveloped me. By the riverside, I decided to set aside the umbrella and indulge in all the fruit I had with me. Tired of carrying the weight, I savored the lychees (Rambutan) and sampled the new Balinese fruit (Mangosteen). The mangosteen, with its garlic/mandarin-like white segments, offered an exquisitely sweet taste. It instantly became my preferred fruit, surpassing strawberries. I hope to find this remarkable fruit back in the Netherlands once I return home.
Following my fruit-filled break, I set aside the umbrella and meticulously wrapped my camera in four layers of plastic bags. Wading through the river on my sandals, I held the camera high above my head, shielded by the protective layers. Upon reaching the other side, I took a brief stroll. Avoiding the slippery rocks upstream to keep my camera dry, I captured some pictures, observed small water snakes, and concluded it was time to make my way back.
Dinner at Hotel Suma
Half an hour later, I reached the parking area of the Sekumpul Waterfall and settled the payment with the attendant. An hour after that, I returned to the hotel and took a well-deserved rest. Despite feeling tired, the day had been incredibly fulfilling. Earlier, Ena had shared a cautionary tale about two girls involved in a traffic accident. The prevalence of accidents on Bali lingered in my thoughts, and I hoped I wouldn’t encounter such misfortune.
While heading to my room, I noticed one of my neighbors, one of the two injured German girls, sitting outside. Engaging in a conversation with her, I learned about her severe leg injury, with the leg securely wrapped in bandages. Anna shared the story of the unfortunate incident where she had mistaken the gas pedal for the brake pedal on her moped. Her and her friend Sandy had veered off the road, heading towards a small store, causing locals to scatter from their path. At a speed of 20 or 30 kilometers per hour, they collided with the store. I offered assistance from my first aid kit, but they assured me they were currently okay. Sandy, the other girl, fortunately, only had minor scratches and bruises.
Lost in Translation
Our conversation continued, and we made plans to have dinner together. In the evening, we opted to dine at the hotel restaurant as Anna needed to take it easy and preferred not to walk too far. I was agreeable to the arrangement. During dinner, we encountered two other Germans—a mother and a son. As Anna and Sandy were acquainted with them, they joined our table for the meal.
The conversation predominantly unfolded in German, and fortunately, I could comprehend everything they were saying. The only hitch was that I couldn’t quite match their fluency, haha. The son, named Bor, was spending quality time with his family in Bali, and later he planned to embark on solo adventures to the Gili Islands and Thailand. I’d categorize Bor as the adventurous, social backpacker who enjoys a good party and drinks. Our dinner was delightful, and I opted for the same pizza as Anna, adorned with generous amounts of cheese—quite enjoyable.
Preparations and Football Banter
Afterward, I politely excused myself as I needed to pack and organize transportation for the next day. Returning to my room, I took care of everything at the reception. Koman, a young staff member, assisted with arranging my transport and engaged in an enthusiastic conversation about football. As time went on, Koman continued chatting about soccer, and eventually, I had to interrupt him. “Koman, sorry, it’s getting quite late, and I’m really tired.” Some Indonesians are true football fanatics, haha.
Tomorrow, I was set to journey to Amed, nestled in eastern Bali, renowned for its excellent diving opportunities. I had secured a shuttle bus for around 200,000 IDR, expecting a two-hour journey, factoring in an additional hour for Indonesian time in my mind. Faced with unreliable internet in my room, I took the opportunity to arrange accommodation for the upcoming night. While Moreno and Nathalie recommended Bila Bungalows, I found it a bit pricey and opted to explore other options. Relying on Tripadvisor, I ultimately booked a stay at Manis Homestay—a decision that proved to be fantastic, but I’ll delve into that later.
