I awoke at 12:30 am with a sense of excitement. Today was the day I would witness the mesmerizing blue fire at Kawah Ijen! Quickly, I put on my hiking shoes, layered up in warm clothes, and prepared my daypack, stuffing it with pastries and water. By 1 am, Robik, my guide, had arrived.
We navigated along a well-kept asphalt road, encountering occasional steep inclines. Robik skillfully adjusted gears whenever the terrain demanded. After an hour, we reached the parking area, where I paid a 15000 IDR entrance fee and additional tourist fees of 30000 IDR for my camera. A tip for fellow travelers: discreetly stow your camera in your bag and assert that you don’t have one or it’s malfunctioning (simply remove the SD card or batteries). It’s disheartening to encounter these opportunistic money-grabbing tactics.
The Hike to Kawah Ijen
Embarking on our hike, we ascended a moderately steep trail. It was notably well-maintained, a sharp contrast to my previous trek up Sumatra’s Kerinci. It’s amusing how I now find myself measuring all my hikes against the challenges of Kerinci. The path that Robin and I traversed was a routine route for approximately 300 sulfur workers on a daily basis. Yet, on this particular day, it happened to be a national holiday, granting all the workers a well-deserved day off.
The hike proceeded smoothly, and I observed that my fitness level was commendable as we outpaced numerous other hikers. The most challenging segment was the ascent to the workers’ resting area. This designated spot offered the convenience of purchasing drinks and snacks. We had an unexplained 30-minute delay before continuing our ascent. Upon reaching the higher altitude, we encountered a substantial number of tourists, a situation I found less appealing. Gunung Ijen is one of the only two locations globally where the mesmerizing blue fire phenomenon can be witnessed. Despite my preference for a quieter experience, there were approximately 50 tourists present, a relatively modest number, I suppose.
Towards the Outlook
The concluding stretch of the hike towards Ijen’s crater proved to be undemanding, featuring a mostly standard trail with a gradual incline. By approximately 3 am, we reached the crest of the crater. Positioned on a viewing platform at a distance, we marveled at the spectacle of the blue fire. I was filled with anticipation, and Robik generously provided me with his gas mask, fulfilling my request from the previous evening. Equipped with the professional-grade mask, I was shielded from the sulfur fumes. It was admirable to witness others, without any protection, bravely inhaling the intoxicating fumes.
The scenery from the platform was breathtaking. Regrettably, all my attempts at capturing the moment on camera were futile due to insufficient light. My camera proved inadequate for nighttime photography, and the distant blue fire frustrated me. “The memory will endure,” I reflected. Nonetheless, I relished the captivating display of the blue flames. Similar to a flickering fireplace, the flames danced, expanded, and intermittently intensified. This National Geographic article provides a compelling portrayal of the vista from the outlook. Suddenly, a small group of tourists descended to the right side of the viewing platform. Robik signaled for me to join them. Were we really going down into the crater?
Inside the Crater
Gradually, we approached the blue fire, and at this juncture, I managed to capture some exquisite photographs. However, every image fell short of conveying the true essence of witnessing it firsthand. It felt as though I was immersed in a form of real-life enchantment reminiscent of a scene from a Game of Thrones episode. Moments later, Robik astounded me once more by announcing that we would descend even further!
Incredible! I never anticipated being so close to the blue fire at Kawah Ijen! Once we descended, I realized that Robik and I were the first to arrive. Heading towards the mining area, Robik broke off a substantial chunk of sulfur and insisted I take it as a souvenir. I couldn’t help but burst into laughter. The sulfur piece he handed me was likely around 1 kilogram, equivalent to the size of a melon—an impractical souvenir burden to carry home. Robik snapped some pictures of me as I occasionally found myself engulfed in smoke blown by the wind. Even with my mask on, inhaling the smoke didn’t feel healthy. It’s risky, and many tourists were present without any protection against the sulfur fumes. Ensure you bring a mask!
Challenges Faced by Sulfur Workers
I heard from someone that the sulfur workers were featured in a documentary program, highlighting their job as one of the toughest in the world when considering their wages. The workers earn approximately 15 dollars per round, during which they must collect 90 kilograms of sulfur and transport it to the weighing station. It’s astonishing that the miners operate without any protective gear during the mining process.
Sunrise at the Outlook
We lingered below for 15 minutes before ascending once more. With sunrise approaching in the next 20 minutes, we had sufficient time to return to the viewing platform. As the sun ascended, a breathtaking panorama revealed itself—featuring the crater, the sulfuric smoke cloud, and the azure hydrochloric acid lake.
The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. I found myself enamored with the surroundings, especially the incredibly beautiful emerald lake. Although I captured numerous pictures, they were occasionally photobombed by fellow tourists. A part of me wished this place could remain a secret, untouched by crowds. Ironically, by writing about it, I suppose I’ve become a part of the “problem,” too—haha!
Thirty minutes later, we commenced our return journey, leisurely taking our time. Robik, an exceptional guide, captured several pictures of me. Reflecting on it now, the descent into the crater might be somewhat challenging, but in the moment, the enchantment of the blue fire at Kawah Ijen overshadowed any physical exertion.
Hotel Return
Thirty minutes after that, we descended from the mountain. An hour later, I arrived back at the hotel. The pungent odor of sulfur clung to my clothes and bag due to the fumes during the hike to the blue fire, leaving me feeling dirty and sweaty. Upon reaching the hotel, I approached Robik and inquired if it would be acceptable for me to take a shower first. He assured me it was fine and encouraged me to take my time.
Following my shower, I returned to the lobby feeling hungry. I approached Robik and inquired if it would be permissible for me to have some breakfast. Once again, he assured me it was fine. I enjoyed my breakfast alongside a girl from the hotel, who hailed from Taiwan. Unfortunately, her name slipped my mind. She was on a tour and had completed the Ijen hike the previous day. Today, her agenda included visiting the paddy fields and engaging with locals, guided by a local guide.
Arrival at Ketapang Ferry Port
Following my nasi goreng breakfast, we headed to the ferry terminal. The ride was nerve-wracking as drowsiness overwhelmed me. Throughout the journey, I resisted the urge to succumb to sleep. The thought of nodding off on the back of Robik’s moped with my 23-kilogram backpack didn’t appeal to me. As we traversed the main road toward the ferry terminal, I fervently prayed for a swift arrival. My struggle against drowsiness persisted, and I attempted to stay alert by facing the wind and concentrating on road signs, a challenging endeavor.
Suddenly, we reached the terminal, and the relief was immense. I was on the verge of dozing off on the moped, and it wouldn’t have been long before I asked Robik to stop. I paid him 300,000 IDR for his services, expressed my gratitude, shook his hand, and bid him farewell. A pang of guilt hit me as I realized I hadn’t given him a tip. Despite negotiating the price down from 400,000 to 300,000 IDR, I felt remorseful because he had provided one of the best hikes, organized transportation, taken numerous pictures of me, and served as a guide. I wanted to show appreciation, but considering the upcoming expenses in the final leg of my Indonesian journey, I was uncertain about my financial situation for the next country.
A Ferry to Bali
The ferry ride to Bali was reasonably priced, with a one-way ticket costing 6500 IDR. I was aware that the journey would last up to an hour. It felt strange as, from the harbor, I could see Bali right in front of me. Comparing it to my summer vacations in a southwestern province in Holland, where I also take a ferry, the contrast was striking. The ferry there only takes 20 minutes to sail to the other side, and the distance covered is, I estimate, 20 times greater than the distance to Bali that lay before me.
A Well Deserved Nap
Upon boarding the ferry, I quickly understood why the journey took an hour. The ferry moved at a snail’s pace. I speculated that the vessel must have been built around 1950, given its dodgy and worn-down appearance—haha. Opting for the upper deck, I sat on the side, capturing some pictures. Two Indonesian guys sat on the bench beside me, and when I noticed one of them smiling, I exchanged greetings. Soon after, I found myself nodding off again, signaling it was time for a power nap.
I rested my head on my day pack, where I kept all my valuables. Both of my bags were securely locked, giving me a sense of security for a nap. I improvised by using my large backpack as a makeshift blanket—haha. Here I was, on this sizable ship, stretched out on an iron bench with a heavy bag on my legs and a rigid bag beneath my head. It turned out to be one of the most uncomfortable naps in my life, and for a moment, I doubted if sleep was possible in such a position. Thankfully, the exhaustion from the hike took over, and I soon drifted off. I woke up right on time! A refreshing 50-minute nap. It felt rejuvenating! I smiled at the two guys and attempted to strike up a conversation. Unfortunately, neither of them spoke a word of English.
I descended to leave the boat and stood by for the gate to open. Mopeds and cars were positioned all over the ferry. I waited for them to disembark before making my exit. Immediately, a man on a moped approached and inquired about my destination. I informed him I was heading to Lovina Beach. He offered to take me there on his moped for 300,000 IDR.
Pricey Pitfalls and Misadventures
I anticipated slightly higher prices compared to Java, but this exceeded my expectations. “A two-hour ride on the back of your moped for only 300,000 IDR? That sounds like an incredible deal,” I responded sarcastically. “Yes, just 300,000,” he affirmed. “No thanks, I’ll take the public bus,” I said and proceeded to the terminal. “The terminal is two kilometers away; I can take you there for 10,000 IDR.” After some negotiation, I managed to bring the price down to 5,000 IDR.
Ultimately, I found myself chuckling but also feeling duped when we arrived only 500 meters from the ferry. “This wasn’t a two-kilometer ride, my friend,” I expressed my frustration to him. The public bus turned out to be another scam. I shelled out 50,000 IDR for a ticket, and fortunately, I wasn’t the only one who fell victim to the deception. A French lady attempted to negotiate a lower price, but the driver remained adamant, and she, too, ended up paying the full 50,000 IDR.
The bus journey was comfortable, but my experience was marred by a girl in the front who was mocking both the French lady and me. She laughed and exchanged remarks about us with the driver, exhibiting behavior that one might classify as ‘bitchy’ or ‘snobbish.’ Her actions were souring my mood, and as soon as I sensed the shift in my demeanor, I decided to drown out the negativity by putting on some music and gazing out of my window.
Arrival in Lovina Beach: A Tussle with Persistent Locals
After a two-hour journey, we reached Lovina Beach. I informed the bus driver of my hotel’s street, and he dropped me off at the correct location on the main road, which was just a 5-minute walk away (the town Lovina Beach spans almost 6 kilometers). As soon as I disembarked, a multitude of locals hurried towards me, eager to promote their accommodations and tours. It was bothersome, but I anticipated this would occur.
‘Do you have accommodation?’, ‘Where?’, ‘Did you book already?’ ‘Do you like diving?’, ‘Do you want to see the dolphins tomorrow?’, ‘You like snorkeling?’ and ‘Do you need transport?’—these were the rapid-fire questions thrown my way as I sought directions to my hotel. Under normal circumstances, I’d be fine with such inquiries, but at this moment, it grated on my nerves. The girl in the bus had altered my mood, leaving me feeling quite fatigued and yearning for a bed. Despite my weariness, I managed to maintain a fake smile and politely declined all the offers from the locals. Tucking two business cards into my wallet, I made a mental note to discard them as soon as I reached my hotel room.
Experiencing Hotel Suma: Warm Welcomes and Cultural Invitations
Hotel Suma proved to be fantastic, and I thoroughly enjoyed the check-in experience. The staff was exceptionally pleasant—Moreno and Nathalie, a couple I had met a few days ago, were spot-on in recommending this hotel, and I silently expressed my gratitude to them once again. The room was delightful, the pool was beautiful, and the overall service was impeccable. Ena, the girl at the check-in, went above and beyond by sharing insights into their culture. She suggested that I join her later for a visit to the temple to witness the evening’s full moon ceremony. Ena even offered to take me there for free, and though appreciative, I told her I needed some time to consider the invitation.
In the lobby, I engaged in a pleasant conversation with Susie, a woman from England who was traveling with her friend Rosie. Rosie, unfortunately, was recuperating from a recent accident in Bali where she had a fall and sustained a severe foot injury, now relying on crutches. Despite the setback, Rosie remained optimistic, and they were determined to make the most of their remaining days in Bali.
Later in the afternoon, while working on my laptop in the restaurant, I observed Ena heading out. I called out to her, informing her that I had made up my mind and accepted her invitation for the evening. She instructed me to be ready at the main road by 6:30 pm, and I assured her I would be there. After she left, I decided to take a nap in my room.
Chronicles of a Clockwork Mix-Up: Apologies, Time Zones, and an Evening with Ena
At 5 pm, I decided to take another power nap. I woke up at 6 pm and promptly positioned myself on the main road at 6:30. As I waited patiently, it became apparent that Ena was a no-show. By around 7 pm, I returned to the hotel, intending to ask the receptionist to give her a call. It was only then, upon glancing at the clock in the lobby, that I realized my oversight— I had forgotten about the time difference between Java and Bali.
An hour later, it was the correct time, marking 8 pm. I requested the hotel staff to call Ena and extended my apologies for the confusion. Ena explained that she had waited until 7:20 pm and then left, considering it would be impolite to go to my room. When I inquired if she still wanted to proceed, she affirmed. She mentioned she would pick me up in 20 minutes. This time, I made sure to be at the right location at the right time, and Ena arrived as scheduled.
Culturally Exquisite Attire for the Ceremonial Event
I expressed my apologies once more, and she reassured me, saying it was okay. I found it hard to believe her level of understanding. Ena shared that she studied tourism education and genuinely enjoyed her role at Suma Hotel. Her passion for sharing insights about her culture was evident, and I could sense her pride in it.
On her moped, Ena took me to her family’s home where I was received a sarong. While Ena went inside to change her clothes, I had the pleasure of meeting her delightful family – two cheerful brothers, around 12 years old, a helpful sister who assisted me with the sarong and head cloth piece. Ena’s parents, though not English speakers, were warm and sincere. Shortly after, Ena emerged in a beautiful dress, looking absolutely lovely. I could have spent another hour with her family, but regrettably, we had to leave. The delay was already significant due to my time zone mistake.
Full Moon Ceremony
Following a 10-minute drive, we reached the temple. Ena informed me that the ceremony was nearing its end. She purchased some flowers for the offering in front of the temple, and then we entered. Inside, she performed a ritual, splashing us with holy water. Ena explained that this was part of the cleansing ritual.
I experienced a sense of tranquility within the temple. Its festive atmosphere appealed to me, with women adorned in beautiful dresses, and an overall atmosphere of joy. Ena guided me on how to engage in prayer, and after we completed the ritual, a woman approached me with water.
I observed her offering water to a nearby man, who then drank it. Encouraged by this, I followed suit. Ena provided guidance on the next steps, and I also partook in the ritual, receiving a handful of sacred rice. She instructed me to place three pieces on my forehead, scatter some in front of me, to my left, and to my right. Additionally, I had to toss some behind me. Two flowers were handed to me, and I placed one behind my right ear and the other behind my left ear, as directed by Ena.
The Unfolding Night
After the ceremony concluded, we lingered for another 15 minutes, engaging in a pleasant conversation. Ena and I departed, capturing a final picture together. Ena, adorned in her beautiful dress, looked stunning. Subsequently, she kindly drove me back to the hotel, where I returned the sarong. Once again, I expressed my gratitude and apologized for the earlier mix-up. I assured her that I would present her with a gift to convey my appreciation for the wonderful evening. Ena reassured me that it was unnecessary, bid farewell, and departed.
In the evening, fueled by the adventures of the past few days, I endeavored to work on my articles, conducting also some online research. It’s remarkable how extended a day can feel at times. Then again, considering this day began at 1 am, it’s quite amusing, haha.
