Yesterday, at 9 pm, I bid farewell to Subandi Homestay and embarked on a journey to my next destination: Padang. Anticipating a feast of delightful cuisine in Padang, I set out on a 6-hour drive north from Kersik Tuo, retracing my steps towards Bukittinggi. Nestled along the Indian Ocean, Padang, the capital of West Sumatra, held the promise of stunning beaches. My upcoming plan included exploring Padang before catching a flight to Java from the local airport in the days to come.
Awesome Travel Companions
As my pick-up rolled into Kersik Tuo, I noticed a group of friendly Indonesian locals already occupying the minivan. As I stowed my bags in the trunk, their hushed conversation about ‘bule‘ caught my ear. Responding with a hearty laugh, I exclaimed, ‘Yes, bule bule. From Belanda!’ The whole group burst into laughter, realizing I comprehended their playful banter about me.
The warmth from these individuals in the car embraced me. The driver, Arsel, appeared younger than his 26 years and communicated solely in Bahasa. Married with a young child, Arsel, like many Indonesian men, shared a passion for football. Anim, a lady in the group, played the role of conversation facilitator, skillfully translating between me and the others. The entire car crew engaged with genuine curiosity, delving deep into my story. I openly shared details about myself, sparking particular interest in the cultural contrasts, notably the age of marriage, which intrigued my Indonesian travel companions.
Anim, en route to Padang to seek guidance for her thesis, was working on her final master’s thesis to complete her English master’s degree. Accompanied by one of her students and her young son, Razzi, I found a welcoming spot beside Arsel on the front seat. The warmth exuded by these friendly individuals made me feel right at home.
A Disappeared Hotel
Upon reaching Padang, the allure of a more upscale hotel beckoned, a well-deserved indulgence after my Kersik Tuo escapade. Longing for a plush bed and a pampering soak for my weary legs, I opted for a four-star retreat recommended by Lonely Planet—Batang Arau Hotel, situated near the river in Padang. Anim, the final passenger to step out of the car, graciously provided translated directions to Arsel, ensuring he knew the way to my chosen hotel.
As time ticked away, a sense of unease crept in when I recognized the same street reappearing. Exhausted from scaling a stratovolcano and enduring a 6-hour journey to Padang, sleep beckoned urgently. Arsel, the driver, halted the car multiple times to seek directions, and 30 minutes slipped away in our quest for the resort. It was only at 4 am that we reached Jalan Batang Arau, the main road. Arsel continued to inquire from a few more locals until, at last, he consulted the right person who shed light on the situation.
Upon returning to the car, Arsel conveyed the events through expressive gestures—he held both hands horizontally, shaking them, then mimicked a building by placing his hands vertically before tilting them to the side, accompanied by a rumbling sound. Through his vivid non-verbal storytelling, the revelation hit me: an earthquake had ravaged the hotel. Facepalming in realization, I later discovered that the earthquake occurred in 2006, rendering my Lonely Planet guide from 2004 egregiously outdated.
Hotel Aliga
Arsel and I shared a hearty laugh over our adventure, pressing on to find a suitable hotel. I explored a few options, but some exceeded my budget. Eventually, I stumbled upon the Aliga, a three-star hotel, and at 4:30 am, I inquired about an available room. Opting to be frugal, I resisted spending on a mere 4-hour night and chose to bide my time in the lobby until 8 am. During the wait, I seized the opportunity to capture some photos and pen down a few articles on my laptop. Exhaustion weighed heavily on me, with escalating leg fatigue and muscle soreness. Upon entering my room, I couldn’t help but express my enthusiasm—it was delightful and impeccably clean.
Chores
The hotel staff left a lasting impression with their genuine smiles, always ready to assist wherever I inquired. Upon entering my room, I prioritized tending to my laundry before retiring for the night. With my current attire as my sole option, I gathered my soiled clothes and hailed a taxi waiting outside the hotel. Despite the cab driver’s lack of English, we agreed on a fare of 10,000 IDR for a ride to the nearby laundry shop. While the hotel offered laundry services, they proved excessively pricey, ranging from 6,000 to 10,000 IDR per item instead of the more economical 10,000 IDR per kilogram.
After a series of attempts, we reached a closed laundry shop. Trying a few more without success, I instructed the driver to return to the hotel as it was still early, with everyone likely still asleep at 8:30 am. Considering his effort, I contemplated giving the driver 5,000 for his trouble, but he insisted on the agreed 10,000. Frustrated by the lack of an open laundry facility, I reacted with annoyance, especially since he had not fulfilled the purpose of the trip. Despite having received his phone number the previous day for airport transport, fueled by fatigue, I impulsively discarded the paper in irritation.
Padang’s Public Transport
I grabbed a drink and snack from the nearby store, stashing them in my hotel refrigerator. Following a nap, I woke up at 1 pm, prepared myself, and gathered my dirty laundry. As I strolled down the street, I popped into several hotels in search of a map, only to come up empty-handed. Reflecting on this in 2020, I find it astonishing that I didn’t leverage mobile internet and Google Maps. My aim was to reach a distant laundry shop, realizing as I journeyed that the one I initially intended to visit was quite far.
Opting for a minivan, a common mode of public transport in Padang, I hopped on and grappled with the language barrier, attempting to communicate with a young lad, perhaps fourteen years old. It took a good 10 minutes, but a breakthrough came when I showed him my bag of dirty laundry. He enthusiastically exclaimed, ‘Laundry, laundry!’—finally, some understanding. The minivan dropped me off at Mr. Washi Laundry shop, conveniently situated just across the street from the HW Hotel.
Meeting my Abang in the Electronics Store
I found myself disoriented in Padang, unsure of my exact location. Although not too distant from my hotel, it would likely take a 30-minute stroll to get back. Paying 40,000 IDR for my laundry, I communicated through gestures that I’d return to pick them up around 10 am the next day. After crossing the street, I engaged in some impromptu sightseeing. Following the road led me to the main thoroughfare, where prominent shops were situated. My primary objective was to locate a map and book my upcoming flight to Java.
Once again, I found myself without my camera, a decision I regretted deeply. To amuse myself, I strolled into an electronics store, eager to compare prices with those in Holland. Instantly, I became the center of attention, drawing curious looks from both customers and employees since bules were a rarity in Padang. Engaging in a cheerful conversation, one of the employees, who spoke some English, made the encounter quite entertaining. To top it off, he even assisted me in attempting to book a flight ticket using his mobile phone.
Surprised that he could take a break from his work to chat with me for 30 minutes, I observed as he casually browsed the internet on his mobile phone. “Won’t your boss be upset that you’re not working right now?” I inquired. “Not at all,” responded Halmi, the friendly conversationalist. He explained that his contact at the travel shop was currently having a meal and would call him back shortly.
Lunch with Halmi
Halmi, about to take a break, kindly invited me to join him for lunch. As I had to wait for the call, I agreed and accompanied him to a warung at the corner near the electronics store. Despite not being hungry, I ordered a drink. Inside the warung, Halmi and I engaged in a friendly and genuinely interested conversation. He suggested taking me out for local food later in the evening, an offer I accepted. We planned for him to pick me up at the Aliga Hotel at 8 pm tonight.
Halmi appeared genuinely flattered, finding it hard to believe that a bule like me was willing to spend time with him. I had to reassure him five times that I would indeed be in the lobby at 8 pm, eliciting a few laughs. I suggested to Halmi that he cancel the call when the guy from the travel shop rang back. This afternoon, I planned to sort out my ticket independently. Wishing Halmi a productive workday, I bid him farewell and left
Padang Boulevard
I strolled away from the electronics store, retracing my steps toward the laundry shop. As I reached the end of the street, I found myself on Padang’s main boulevard, Jalan Samudera. A mild sea breeze provided a refreshing coolness, a welcome relief in the warmer climate of Padang. Compared to the last few days in the Kerinci valley, where the temperature hovered around 25 degrees, here it soared to 30 degrees or higher.
Seeking relaxation and a respite from the heat, I opted for a Coca-Cola at one of the numerous little warungs lining the boulevard on Jalan Samudera in Padang. Seated on a modest plastic chair with my drink in hand, I reflected on my current state of contentment. Two cheerful children approached, attempting to engage with me, despite my lack of understanding of Indonesian. The weather was splendid, my Coca-Cola refreshing, and everywhere I turned, I was met with the smiling faces of Indonesians. Life felt exceptionally good in that moment, providing a genuine sense of relaxation.
Arranging Tickets
Following my beverage, I continued my leisurely walk along the boulevard. I approached a man seeking directions to a travel shop, and he suggested the nearby tourist information center. He recommended it for obtaining a map, emphasizing that it closed at 4 pm—an ideal solution for my quest. Fortunately, the tourist information center was just a short 100-meter walk away. Upon entering, the friendly staff welcomed me warmly. I was handed a map along with additional helpful information about Padang’s highlights. The man at the tourist information office also provided clear directions to locate the travel agency at Plaza Andalas.
Empowered by the map, I hopped onto a public transport minivan, informing the driver of my destination, knowing it fell within his route. Upon reaching the mall, I took the opportunity to explore the surroundings. To pinpoint the travel agency, I engaged a few locals with creative gestures—airplane hands, the universal money snap, and explicitly showing the money in my pocket—all accompanied by verbal cues like ‘travel agency.’ Eventually, I successfully reached the secluded travel agency and secured a ticket for February 1, 2014. Returning to my hotel room, I dedicated time to working on articles and planning tomorrow’s adventure.
A Banana Dish
As planned, Halmi and I departed from the Aliga Hotel at 8 pm. Our first stop was Chinatown, bustling with activity due to the upcoming Chinese New Year celebrations starting tomorrow.
Halmi took me to one of his favorite spots in Padang—the bridge leading to the Batang Arau area. Positioned on the bridge was a food cart, where Halmi suggested I take a seat in one of the plastic chairs while he placed our food order. Within moments, the food vendor delivered our dishes—a delightful treat comprising warm bananas adorned with sprinkles and what seemed like cheese. The flavors were exquisite, and I even savored Halmi’s portion since he wasn’t particularly hungry. Whether it’s deemed a snack or a dessert, it certainly made for a delightful appetizer, or perhaps an unexpected dessert, depending on one’s perspective!
Once more, I enjoyed a splendid view, and the ambiance on this bridge exuded tranquility. A vacation vibe enveloped me, and life felt blissful in Indonesia. The hill behind the bridge sparkled with tiny blue lights emanating from the houses.
The Best Chicken Satay in Padang
After spending 30 minutes on the bridge, we opted to explore another spot for a more extensive Indonesian culinary experience, considering the banana dish merely an appetizer. A brief 15-minute journey took us approximately 5 kilometers north of our previous location to a local warung. Here, I had the privilege of savoring the best chicken satay of my life. The chicken was remarkably tender, juicy, and exceptionally delicious. The accompanying peanut sauce, although cold, was flavorful with a hint of spice. The chicken satay plate was complemented by rice cakes and acar.
Throughout our meals, Halmi and I engaged in conversation about various topics, though communication proved challenging. Halmi grasped only simple English sentences. For more complex subjects or when I needed to convey longer statements, we resorted to using Halmi’s BlackBerry for translation between English and Indonesian. Halmi insisted on covering the cost of all the dishes, a gesture I hesitated to accept. In the end, I reciprocated by purchasing a drink during our time at the beach.
Pantai Padang
After we finished our meal at the little warung, we headed to Pantai Padang, the coastline of Padang. Once again, we settled into the familiar cheap plastic chairs, but this time, right on the beach, relishing a refreshing Coca-Cola, pleasant music, and the captivating view of the Indian Ocean. Utilizing Halmi’s BlackBerry, we communicated and devised a plan for the following day. Halmi expressed that I was now his friend.
Since Halmi had a day off tomorrow, he extended an invitation for us to spend time together. Despite my initial plans to explore Padang, his infectious friendliness and cheerful demeanor made the decision easy. I eagerly agreed to join Halmi the next day, right after retrieving my laundry. As the saying goes, a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush, and my decision turned out to be spot-on the following day.
