Today promised a stay at Freddies Santai Sumurtiga, a hidden gem—a unique accommodation in an off-the-beaten-path setting. Danny rose with the sun, embracing the tranquility of his morning prayer. Meanwhile, I enjoyed a leisurely sleep until 7:30, eager for the day ahead.
Breakfast awaited me at the reception, a delightful spread of diverse Indonesian dishes. Although unsure of the specifics, each bite proved surprisingly delicious. To my amazement, there was also familiar comfort in the form of Western bread and Dutch chocolate sprinkles.
Kilometer Zero Monument
Following breakfast, I joined Danny, a local I befriended the day before, on a trip to the motorcycle shop. We snagged a moped for just 50,000 IDR for half a day. Our mission? To explore the zero-kilometer monument and capture some memorable snapshots.
The Kilometer Zero monument, inaugurated on September 9, 1997, symbolizes the unity of the Indonesian archipelago. Positioned in Ibioh Village on Weh Island, Aceh, it marks the westernmost point of Indonesia. According to Danny, a counterpart monument resides at the easternmost point in Merauke, Papua. The four imposing pillars of this monument represent the cardinal points of Indonesia: Sabang in Aceh, Merauke in Papua, Miangas Island in North Sulawesi, and Rote Island in East Nusa Tenggara.
Zero Kilometer Monument Certificate
Although the monument showed signs of wear, its condition didn’t bother me. Danny, on a bucket list quest, aimed to secure a certificate from the Indonesian government as proof of his visit to the zero-kilometer monument in Sabang. Intrigued by the idea, I decided to follow suit, considering the certificate a meaningful keepsake. Unfortunately, no civil servant was available at the monument to issue certificates on the spot. After inquiring, Danny learned that we needed to head to Sabang’s city hall to obtain the coveted certificates.
Sabang, the principal town of Pulau Weh, beckoned us. I suggested to Danny that we check out and head to Sabang together, having already booked my desired accommodation at Freddies Santai Sumurtiga there. After a quick return to our bungalow (a mere 15-minute motorcycle ride away) to pack, Danny secured a cab with the help of locals. However, we hit a snag when a local informed us that it was a public holiday, and city hall, where we needed to obtain certificates, was closed. With Danny’s imminent flight, scheduled for around 2 pm, I assured him I’d arrange the certificates and send his by mail. Meanwhile, we were asked to wait at Ibioh Beach for another traveler joining our cab.
The Departure of Danny
We departed from Ibioh village in a car occupied by five individuals, including the two sisters from Ibioh who served as our drivers. Initially appearing friendly and unremarkable, one of the sisters inquired about smoking, to which we all agreed, even though none of us were smokers. A British man joined our ride, and the two women dropped off both him and Danny at the port. Throughout the journey, I didn’t engage much with the women in the front seats. However, the dynamic shifted after Danny and the man disembarked at the port.
After everyone else had left, I requested a ride to Freddies at Santai Sumurtiga. Now alone in the cab, the dynamic changed, and the two sisters engaged in conversation with me instead of each other. They suggested I return to Ibioh and join them for a party, emphasizing its pleasant atmosphere. Despite their insistence and an offer to take me there, I explained that I had a reservation (partly true) at Freddies Santai Sumurtiga and couldn’t return to Ibioh. Throughout the 15-minute ride, they persisted in persuading me, but I maintained a friendly demeanor with a constant smile and politely declined their accommodation offer in Ibioh.
A Tense Encounter
“No, no, no,” I asserted. The girl behind the wheel chimed in, “Freddie is an old man.” I responded with a laugh, “Aren’t the elderly nice and wise? I’ve heard he’s a great cook.” The woman confirmed that he was indeed the best chef on the island. Despite their efforts to persuade me, they couldn’t change my mind, and I sensed their growing agitation and frustration. To conceal their intentions, they conversed with each other, but their body language and tones revealed an underlying disagreement. Our conversation then shifted in a new direction.
They began probing me about girls, sex, and partying, curious about how people in Holland approach these aspects. “Join us, let’s party all night and have fun,” they urged. At this juncture, their insistence made me uneasy, and I felt unsafe in the car as they persisted in trying to convince me. To add to the discomfort, they engaged in a heated argument in Indonesian, with me clearly being the focal point of their discussion.
I sensed that one of the sisters hesitated to push me further, but the other disagreed. “The beach at Freddies is dirty, full of trash. Come to Ibioh, clean beach, nice people,” she insisted. In response, I transitioned from a friendly demeanor to a more serious expression. With a firm gaze through the rearview mirror, I communicated my preference to be taken to Freddies. It had the desired effect—both sisters fell silent for the next tense 10 minutes. Now, my hope rested on them actually taking me to Freddies, although I had no clue about our location on Pulau Weh.
As I stepped out of the car, the woman driving extended her hand, introducing herself and her sister. Having grown indifferent to their antics, I politely responded with a friendly smile, knowing this encounter would soon be a thing of the past. To ease the tension and hasten our parting, I mentioned visiting their shop back in Ibioh. I settled the fare for the ride, then proceeded to cross the street, eager to move on.
Paradise at Santai Sumurtiga
Following that unpleasant encounter, I crossed the street and wandered through an alley, anticipating an awe-inspiring experience. I was well aware of what awaited me, having previously admired pictures from behind my computer screen months ago, when I planned this journey. An untouched paradise location was about to unfold before me.
As I reached the end of the alley, a gentle, sea-kissed breeze welcomed me. Before my eyes unfolded an incredible sight—I couldn’t help but smile. A pristine white sandy beach stretched out, tall palm trees swayed gracefully in the breeze, wooden bungalows dotted the landscape, and a grand staircase led to the lobby of Freddies. I had arrived at Freddies Santai Sumurtiga, where the mild wind offered a refreshing touch, cooling me as I took it all in.
Upon entering the lobby, I was warmly greeted by the owner, Freddy, whose kindness exceeded my expectations. We had communicated through emails regarding reservations, and now, as I stood in the very place I would call home for the next three days, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of immediate affection for it. Freddy shared details about the dinner and breakfast arrangements, to which I promptly confirmed my participation in tonight’s dinner and tomorrow’s breakfast.
A family room at Freddies
I headed to my room and settled in. It was perfect—far more spacious and surprisingly more affordable than the rooms at Ibioh Inn.
I enjoyed a pleasant view from the balcony, spending some leisure time there. In the afternoon, I sat on the restaurant terrace, dining while working on my laptop.
In the afternoon, I had a Skype call with my younger brother. He shared updates from home, and I shared a bit about my experiences in Indonesia. Later, I continued working on my articles. At around 7:30 pm, a staff member knocked on my door, a timely reminder that it was dinner time, just as I was about to head there. Appreciative of their thoughtfulness.
Dinner at Freddies
Staying at Freddies Santai Sumurtiga is a culinary delight, and one compelling reason is the delectable dinners prepared by Freddy and his team. Their love for cooking is evident in the fantastic meals served to guests. The communal dining experience, where all guests gather to eat simultaneously, is a distinct advantage of this hotel-like accommodation. It fosters easy interactions, allowing you to meet people, bond with neighbors, and share in the delightful culinary experiences. From my global travels, I can confidently say that making friends is more accessible in hostels than in hotels because hostels encourage a shared experience.
Our evening commenced with three diverse starters. The initial course featured a delightful soup comprised of mixed potatoes, cauliflower, and various vegetables, seasoned with local spices—an absolute delight. Following that, Freddy introduced us to the buffet, showcasing a traditional dish from Pulau Weh. A large fish adorned with an incredible sauce graced the spread. While I regrettably forgot the names and ingredients, the meal was a remarkable feast for the senses. For a visual taste of the resort and its dinners, check out this impressive YouTube video.
I engaged in conversation with various individuals and had the pleasure of meeting Erwin, a 28-year-old Dutch traveler who had explored Asia extensively. Pulau Weh marked one of his final destinations on this remarkable journey, which had taken him through Thailand and Myanmar. The anecdotes he shared about Myanmar that evening were truly captivating—beach parties with locals, navigating unknown destinations with his friend. Discovering that we both had similar plans for the next day, we decided to explore together. Afterward, I returned to my room, dedicating some more time to working on my articles. At midnight, I connected with my eldest brother via Skype, finding solace in catching up on the happenings back in Holland.
