Today, I planned to explore another waterfall at the Akaka Falls State Park. Around 8 am, the chatter of people in the dorm lobby, including Wendy, reached my ears, but I remained in bed until 9 am. By then, the voices had dissipated. Taking a leisurely approach, I savored some pineapple and a refreshing drink. As I indulged in my morning ritual, I engaged in conversations with friends back home, mindful of the 12-hour time difference in the Netherlands.
Reflection on Last Night
Despite the dreary weather, which had persisted since yesterday evening’s drizzle, I found a strange comfort in it. Yesterday, the sound of rain, coupled with the chorus of frogs, had a soothing effect on me. With everyone else retired for the night, I had the relaxation area all to myself. Sipping on a Coke, I engaged in lively chats with friends, enjoying the peaceful ambiance.
The stay at Hilo Tropical Gardens hostel was pleasant, and I found myself wishing I could extend it for another night. However, with time rapidly slipping away, I reminded myself that my days in Hawaii were numbered.
A Scenic Drive
At around 10:30 am, I set out towards the north. I headed towards Akaka Falls State Park, which hosts an exquisite waterfall. Akaka Falls at Akaka Waterfall State Park is easily accessible via the 0.4 mile loop path. Along the highway, I spotted a scenic road stretching four miles, and I couldn’t resist the temptation to explore it. The travel guide had spoken highly of it. Despite the lingering fog, I felt optimistic today; weather on the Big Island could shift rapidly, and I had a hunch that conditions would improve on the opposite side of the island.
The scenic drive was decent, although I found the rainforest, Lauhalaland, I drove through yesterday to be more captivating. Perhaps it was due to the rain. There was only one brief moment when I caught a glimpse of the coastline.
Arrival at Akaka Falls State Park
After a 15-minute drive, I reached the Akaka Falls State Park. Parking within the park premises cost $5, but fortunately, it was full, so I parked just outside, saving myself $4 as walk-ins only paid $1. After paying the fee, I walked down the stairs and followed the path.
Another Rainbow
Akaka Falls, boasting a staggering drop of 442 feet or 135 meters, left me in awe, and I was thrilled that I made the journey to Akaka Falls State Park. It marked a wonderful beginning to my day. Anticipating better weather for the possibility of witnessing a rainbow, I couldn’t help but feel hopeful. Despite the initial crowd of tourists at Akaka Falls State Park, they dispersed after about 10 minutes, granting me a serene moment alone with the majestic cascade. I lingered for 20 minutes, observing as the sun gradually broke through the clouds, eventually illuminating the mist and forming a vibrant rainbow. The wait proved to be immensely rewarding!
This moment was absolutely breathtaking at the Akaka Waterfall State Park! Unfortunately, after just 10 minutes, the rainbow vanished as the clouds thickened once more. Yesterday, I had hoped for a rainbow due to the clear weather. Waking up to dismal conditions today, I had resigned myself to the idea of missing out. Interestingly, in the photos above, it may appear as though there’s moisture on my lens. However, those tiny specks are actually misty clouds generated by the waterfall itself.
Venturing North
After exploring Akaka Waterfall State Park, I set my sights on heading northward. Initially planning to visit Waipio Valley near Honokaa, I had to change my plans due to the unpredictable weather. Undeterred, I continued my journey towards Waimea. There, I found a cozy spot for lunch at Waimea Center, a charming small shopping mall. I opted for a delicious Subway sandwich, indulging in their mouthwatering chicken teriyaki.
Eager to find accommodation, I pressed on towards Kapaau, a quaint town nestled at the northeastern tip of the island. The scenic drive from Waimea to Kapaau spanned roughly 40 minutes, offering breathtaking views as the clouds gradually dispersed, unveiling an impressive landscape. The rolling hills adorned with lush greenery evoked memories of the stunning vistas of New Zealand’s North Island. Unable to resist the allure of the picturesque scenery, I made a brief stop to capture the moment with a few photographs.
Enchanting Landscapes on the Big Island
As I ascended the big hill, a light drizzle greeted me, courtesy of a passing cloud. Remarkably, within mere moments, the rain ceased as swiftly as it had begun. The weather on the Big Island proved to be delightfully unpredictable—sometimes showers would last a mere five seconds, even in the absence of visible clouds. Morning clouds often gave way to clear, sunny skies within just a few hours, showcasing the island’s ever-changing climate.
As I descended downhill, the breathtaking vistas of the island’s west coast unfolded before me. The scenery evoked memories of Africa’s vast savannahs, transporting me back to my recent visit to Indonesia’s Baluran National Park in February. It was a striking reminder of the diverse landscapes that Earth has to offer.
It’s fascinating to observe the gradual transformation of the landscape as it nears the coast. Beginning with lush, grassy hills inland, the terrain gradually gives way to rugged wasteland along the coastline. As I anticipated my drive along the coast the following day, I couldn’t help but notice the stark contrast in climate between the island’s west and east sides. This stark difference is attributed to the distinct windward and leeward conditions prevailing across the island.
King Kamehameha I
Upon arriving in Kapaau, my first order of business was to find a restroom. Unfortunately, the gas station didn’t have one, so I headed towards Kamehameha Park, following the advice of the station attendants who mentioned a public toilet there. It’s worth noting a bit about King Kamehameha, the park’s namesake—a significant figure in Hawaiian history, known for his unification of the Hawaiian Islands under one rule. His legacy is evident throughout Hawaii, with numerous highways and streets bearing his name. Interestingly, every time I encounter his name, I can’t help but think of Dragonball Z—a testament to his enduring presence in popular culture.
Locating the park was a breeze, and I took advantage of the facilities before hitting the road again towards the east. My trusty travel guide had already tipped me off about the road’s end point, promising a breathtaking view that I was eager to witness for myself.
Pololū Valley Lookout
After traveling five miles, I reached the end of the road. Luck was on my side as I snagged the last available parking spot. The panoramic views of the valley were simply breathtaking—I was immediately captivated. At the road’s terminus, a steep trail beckoned towards the black sand beach below. As I approached, I observed weary tourists ascending, visibly tired and perspiring. Curious about the trail’s length, I inquired, but upon hearing the distance, I opted to explore the area instead of tackling the hike. A kind lady suggested a short stroll downhill for a quarter mile, promising splendid views. Following her advice, I embarked on the brief walk and was rewarded with stunning close-up shots of the distant island.
After spending 30 minutes exploring, I returned to my car. Disappointed by the lack of affordable accommodations nearby, I made the decision to continue my journey towards Kailua-Kona, a drive of about 1.5 hours south. I opted against staying at the Pineapple Park hostel again, as I suspected they might have bedbugs. Over the past three days, I had been incessantly scratching all over my body. While it could have been mosquito bites from my time at the Hilo Tropical Garden hostel, I mostly wore trousers and a sweater for protection. Moreover, some of the bites were in rather unexpected places, like my backside, leaving me to suspect bedbugs as the culprit. Additionally, these bites were exceptionally itchy, unlike any I had experienced in my travels through Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia, New Zealand, and Fiji. The relentless itching forced me to rely on special creams for relief.
The Kohala Village Inn
Returning to my journey towards Kailua-Kona, I retraced my route back towards the small town, just 8 miles from Keokea. Passing through Kapaau, I soon arrived at another charming spot called Hawi. Curiosity led me to explore the town further, and I decided to stop by the local supermarket. As I navigated the area, my attention was caught by a hotel across the street—the Kohala Village Inn. Intrigued, I made a mental note to inquire about their rates.
The receptionist was quite accommodating. After discussing, she quoted me a rate of around $85, inclusive of taxes. She mentioned ongoing renovations throughout the hotel, warning of potential noise disruptions. I expressed appreciation for their efforts to improve the property, indicating it was a positive sign of their commitment to guest comfort. She nodded in agreement. Requesting a room with a desk for my laptop work (though I ended up working on the bed), I ultimately decided to book a room there. The decision stemmed from my desire to avoid returning to Pineapple Park Hostel and my exhaustion after a full day of driving.
I was thrilled with the room I was given. It had just been freshly painted, and the king-size bed was incredibly comfortable—it felt like a slice of luxury reminiscent of accommodations in Bali, bringing a smile to my face. In the afternoon, I took some time to unwind in the room before heading to the supermarket conveniently located across from the hotel. There, I treated myself to a generous serving of Häagen-Dazs ice cream. Later in the evening, I indulged in chips with dip sauce while I worked on some articles. I capped off the night by relaxing with episodes of How I Met Your Mother before finally calling it a night around 1 am.
