Today I would visit the village Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historic Park. I woke up around 7 am but opted to snooze a bit longer. By 9:30 am, I finally rose for the day. I had a simple breakfast of bread with peanut butter, grabbed a drink, and packed my belongings back into the car. I had no intention of returning to this hostel. While it was acceptable, I had read some negative reviews about it online.
The Beach Next to the Airport
Today, I planned to camp overnight at Volcano National Park, where camping was free. Currently, I was in Kailua-Kona, located on the western coast of the Big Island. Over the next few days, I aimed to complete a full drive around the island, which would take approximately 6 hours without factoring in any stops.
I opted to start by spending some time at a beach. I found a promising one in my travel guide that didn’t necessitate a 4-wheel drive. Heading back towards the north, I discovered the beach conveniently located next to the airport.
I reached the beach in 30 minutes after making a quick stop at the supermarket in Kailua-Kona. I grabbed some extra food, including more pineapple, for tonight’s camping trip.
Upon arriving, I observed some locals sheltering under a parasol, as there wasn’t much shade available. Opting to settle beneath a palm tree near the restroom facility, I indulged in some reading and music. An hour later, I strolled around, capturing photos of the breathtaking waves crashing against the lava rocks.
Another Day, Another Lookout
It was time to depart. The journey to South Point would span approximately 2 hours, with another hour’s drive to reach the Volcano National Park. If possible, I intended to explore some sights along the route. Heading back south, past the hostel, I made my way for about an hour before feeling the need for refreshments and a restroom break. Opting to detour at Honaunau, I descended and stumbled upon a lookout point. Unable to resist, I snapped some photos—old habits die hard.
From there, I noticed the inviting palm tree area. Assuming it would be a beachfront with some amenities, I was confident I could find a drink there. Determined, I jumped into the car and proceeded down the road. Following the next significant left turn, I arrived at the destination—a historical national park known as Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park.
Arrival at the Hawaiian National Historical Park
I didn’t mind; it was time for some cultural exploration anyway. In Fiji, I hadn’t delved into their cultures much—it wasn’t a priority for me there. The only thing cultural I experienced there was the kava session after my visit to Monuriki Island (aka Cast Away island). However, in Indonesia, I did experience a lot of culture, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I suppose I’m more inclined towards nature, but I welcomed the opportunity to learn about Hawaiian culture. Parking my car, I noticed the absence of the lady in the booth, so I didn’t have to pay the $5 fee. Instead, I received a small free map of the park and inquired about any entrance fees. The staff informed me that it was free of charge. As I walked in, I relished the chance to immerse myself in the sights and learn about the ancient Hawaiian people.
A Journey into Hawaiian History and Culture
I strolled around the first part of Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, which was quite pleasant. A small bay before the wooden house was fenced off, likely to protect it. Turtles dotted the shore, but visitors weren’t permitted to access that area. This place held significant cultural importance as a sacred Hawaiian village. In ancient times, Hawaiians adhered to different laws, and breaking any of these sacred laws meant facing death. However, individuals had a single recourse: they could flee to the sacred refuge of Honaunau. There, a priest would absolve the offender, granting them freedom from blame and allowing them to return to society.
The small bay at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, where turtles frequented (as seen in the second picture above), served as an anchoring spot for fishing boats. Adjacent to the bay, small ponds were utilized by fishermen for storing their catch. The meaning behind the statues eluded me. However, I couldn’t help but marvel at the impressive walls. Constructed entirely by hand and without the use of mortar, the stones remained in place solely due to their weight. To confirm, I even tested it myself and found that I could lift the top stones.
A Relaxing Experience
I followed the wall towards the palm trees by the shore, finding solace in the serene surroundings. The sight of the palm trees, the rugged lava rocks, and the rhythmic waves of the sea truly calmed my senses. After wandering over the rocks and along the beach, I retraced my steps. Along the way, I revisited the Hawaiian houses I had encountered earlier. Among them were two traditional fisherman’s boats on display, along with a wooden chair that evoked memories of my childhood. The familiar sight of chairs crafted from tree trunks transported me back to my preschool days.
Upon returning to the entrance of Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, I noticed three individuals engaged in a traditional game known as Konane, which bears resemblance to draughts or checkers. In the final picture, a fallen tree marked the impact of lava flow.
Contemplating the Big Island’s Road Rules
After spending an hour at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, I set out southward once again. Driving on the Big Island brought about mixed feelings for me. Remarkably, it was incredibly relaxed; I hadn’t encountered a single tailgater, which was quite unusual. Instead, drivers simply adjusted their speed and followed in line. However, I couldn’t help but find the speed limits to be ridiculously slow.
Comparing them to Australia or New Zealand, where road conditions were similar, the limits here felt excessively low. Despite the straight roads and excellent condition, speed limits were capped at 35, 45, or 55 miles per hour (50, 70, or 90 km/h), even in remote areas where driving faster would be safe. Though I typically adhere to the law, I found myself making an exception, often exceeding the limit by 10 miles per hour (16 km/h).
Unknown Village Visit
I headed south, and after about 30 minutes, I decided it was time for an early dinner or late lunch. When I spotted a turn leading towards the coastline, I didn’t hesitate to take it. Descending down a long and steep path, I was treated to breathtaking views of the small cottages perched on the hillside.
The road wound its way down, taking longer than I anticipated to reach the houses below. Upon turning towards the houses, I drove through the area, expecting to find some shops, but to my disappointment, there were none. It seemed to be holiday homes for those with second residences. As I navigated through the streets, I spotted a man working on his boat in a shed. I approached him and inquired about restaurants in the area. He directed me to drive back to the highway and head south for about 10 minutes. Expressing my gratitude, I left promptly as it was getting late.
Lunch Time and Book Tip
The journey back uphill took another 10 minutes. After driving along the highway for 15 minutes, I finally spotted the sign I had been searching for: ‘Sea View.’ Making a left turn onto the premises, I found a small grocery store, a gas station, a local shop selling various items, and a snack bar. I parked the car and ordered a combo burger along with a drink.
While enjoying my meal, I delved into my travel guide, “The Big Island Revealed.” Although it was a good read, I found it lacking in accommodation information compared to Lonely Planet, which typically includes such details. However, I appreciated the author’s humorous tone and relatability. His witty remarks, such as renaming ‘Back Sand Beach Village’ to ‘Village located in the middle of nowhere surrounded by jungle,’ were spot-on and entertaining.
I highly recommend the book for its spectacular photos and comprehensive information on prices, beaches, hiking trails, and more. What I valued most was the author’s honesty and humor. He genuinely seems to prioritize helping readers save money and have a great experience. His tips, like suggesting to visit a waterfall in the early morning when the sun is behind you to possibly catch a rainbow, were invaluable.
Check-in at the Hostel
After spending 30 minutes exploring, I returned to my car and concluded that it was too late to continue heading south. Opting for convenience, I booked a room at the Pineapple Park Hostel via my phone on hostelworld.com. The drive back north took around 1.5 hours, and I arrived at the hostel around 6:30 pm feeling tired and exhausted.
The lady hostess was absent, so I had to check in with one of the staff members. He quoted me a rate of 34 dollars for the night. However, a thought struck me: “Wasn’t the rate 30 dollars, as I paid yesterday via hostelworld.com?” I queried. The guy explained that the additional amount was tax. Realizing that I had made a reservation through Hostelworld, where the rate was fixed, I decided to mention it. “You know what, I just remembered something. I made the booking on Hostelworld, so I should pay 30 dollars,” I asserted.
The guy checked his reservation papers but couldn’t find it. “No, no, no, it’s not in there. I made the booking an hour ago,” I clarified. He looked at me skeptically and requested to see my reservation. Retrieving my phone from my pocket, I opened my email and showed him the confirmation from Hostelworld. Finally, he acquiesced, noting down the details, and I paid him the agreed-upon 30 dollars instead of 34.
Wrong Date
Later in the evening, the hostess approached me, pointing out that I had made a mistake on Hostelworld. Apparently, I had booked for tomorrow night instead. I apologized, though it seemed rather unnecessary as Hostelworld typically defaults to the next day’s date for bookings, requiring manual adjustment beforehand. Nevertheless, the hostess assured me that it wouldn’t be a problem if I left a review for them. I agreed, realizing it would save me the hassle of rectifying the error. The hostess seemed aware that I was planning to head to the other part of the island the following day.
Weird Hostel Guest
In the evening, I attempted to use my mobile phone for internet access, but T-Mobile didn’t have coverage in the area, so I relied on the Wi-Fi instead. The man in the Hawaiian t-shirt, who had been there earlier, engaged in a conversation about politics with the two employees. I overheard his impassioned rant about something trivial and found him rather peculiar. Deciding to avoid any interaction with him, I refrained from making eye contact whenever he was in the kitchen. As I sat next to the Wi-Fi access point, I noticed him on the opposite couch with his laptop, likely using the internet extensively. Frustrated with my browser not working, I gave up. Later, as I passed him on my way to the toilet, I glimpsed him watching videos about the Nazis on YouTube. I always made an effort to steer clear of odd individuals in hostels, avoiding eye contact and keeping conversations superficial to prevent any awkward encounters. It may not have been the friendliest approach, but it helped me avoid getting into uncomfortable situations.
Chores and Entertainment
In the late evening, the guy had left, leaving the Wi-Fi all to myself. With the incredible speed, I took advantage of it to download the final season of How I Met Your Mother. Having completed season 8, I now knew who the mother was. These past month I was so eager to discover how Ted would meet her.
I worked on the articles for a while and made plans for tomorrow. South Point was finally on the agenda for the next day. I headed to bed around 1 am.
