My mission for the day? Conquer the summit of Mount Kosciuszko. At 9 am, I rose to face the day, greeted by persistently gloomy weather. The previous evening had been marred by drizzles, and the forecast didn’t promise any relief for the next three days, as warned by the knowledgeable lady at the Cooma information center. After a quick morning routine – teeth brushed, a quick visit to the less-than-ideal eco-toilet – I set out from the campsite, embarking on a 15-kilometer drive to Thredbo.
Swiftly arriving, I grappled with a decision: ascend the mountain or embrace inertia for the day. The chill in the air was palpable, marking the first occasion this trip demanded a sweater and jeans. Despite my aversion to the cold, the allure of checking off a bucket list item prevailed.
Thredbo Gateway to Mount Kosciuszko
Exploring Australia’s premier alpine resort in both winter and summer, I spotted a few lost tourists amid the tranquility of the off-season. With numerous shops and restaurants shuttered, Thredbo, renowned for skiing in winter, revealed a quieter charm. The ever-open ski lift beckoned, extending an invitation for year-round hiking adventures around the majestic mountain.
Surveying the array of hiking options, the information center lady enthusiastically proposed a 40-kilometer trek to Charlottesville and back. While she meticulously detailed the route, my internal dialogue was more like, ‘WTF, is she serious about a 40-kilometer hike?! Is she thinking I’m some hiking superhuman?’ Politely, I said I’d mull it over. Evidently, my appearance belied the fact that, in reality, I might not be as fit as I look – a good laugh at my own expense!
Splurging about 10 dollars on breakfast from a charming bakery, I strolled back to my car, grappling with a decision. Casting my gaze towards the ski lift, I pondered the day ahead. Determined, I opted to ascend and assess the weather at the summit, deferring my final decision on conquering Mount Kosciuszko. Extracting my winter coat from the trunk – a thoughtful gift from my mom sent to my relatives in Rockhampton a month prior – I finally got to put it to good use. Thredbo’s chill was undeniable.
Securing a round-trip ski pass for 33 dollars, I hopped on the ski lift for a scenic journey to the summit. The ascent was substantial, taking roughly 10-15 minutes, during which I captured some delightful snapshots of the picturesque views.
Chairlift Summit Station
Ascending the mountain, the temperature steadily plummeted. Arriving at the chairlift top station, the surroundings were veiled in fog, yet mercifully, it wasn’t raining. Eagerly, I embarked on the path, reveling in the breathtaking landscape, reminiscent of Scotland’s beauty. The relatively easy 8-kilometer hike to the summit of Kosciuszko beckoned from the chairlift top station.
Indecisive, I opted to delay my decision once more, choosing to explore the first lookout along the way, situated 2 kilometers ahead. Having prepared, I brought along two peanut butter sandwiches and a refreshing Coke Zero, a perfect trailside treat.
After the initial 50 meters, the stone-paved path transitioned into steel bars. As I continued my journey, I soon realized I had underestimated the distance. Although the walk was only 2 kilometers, the biting cold caught me off guard. Despite the dry conditions, the pervasive fog and intense cold made it quite challenging. Up here, I estimated the temperature to be around 5 degrees Celsius, a stark contrast to my body accustomed to the more pleasant temperatures of 20-25 degrees Celsius.
Kosciuszko Lookout
I found solace in the steel bar pathway, as the ground below appeared drenched, resembling a swampy terrain. After a 20-minute trek, I reached the lookout, only to be greeted by a lack of views, shrouded in thick fog.
Standing at Kosciuszko lookout, uncertainty crept in about my decision. Should I backtrack or push on to the summit? Two conflicting voices waged a debate in my mind. One urged, ‘Come on, it’s a bucket list item! How often do you find yourself in Australia, let alone at the highest point on the mainland?’ The other voice countered, ‘Maarten, just head back to your car. It’s already been an amazing day—ski lift, a two-kilometer walk. Your three-month journey has been incredible; you don’t need this, especially with the foggy view!’
Ultimately, the persuasive first voice triumphed, and I resolved to press on. The bucket list held a certain sanctity, after all. Continuing my trek over the iron bars, I once again miscalculated the distance. From the lookout, there were still another six kilometers to conquer.
Quit or Continue?
A kilometer past the lookout, a light drizzle began, much to my annoyance. Though not a heavy downpour, within 30 minutes, my pants were thoroughly soaked. I found myself holding my arm above my camera bag, desperate to shield it from the persistent rain.
The fog thickened with each step, and the chill in the air intensified as my walk continued. To boost my spirits, I indulged in my sandwiches. Every sign I encountered brought a fresh wave of disappointment in terms of distance. Just when I believed I had covered a full kilometer, it turned out to be only 500 meters—quite the amusing realization, haha.
Finally reaching a junction, I checked the sign—only 2 more kilometers to go. The temptation to call it quits crossed my mind; I was thoroughly soaked and shivering. Plus, my camera bag was growing damper, risking damage to my equipment. Doubts crept in about the wisdom of this journey. However, determined to see it through, I pushed ahead. The desire to complete this hike outweighed the discomfort. I knew that if I abandoned it now, I’d undoubtedly regret it later. At last, I approached the final stretch leading to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko.
The Final Stretch to the Summit of Mount Kosciuszko
The path twisted, and I realized I was now trekking in a circular route towards the summit. The trails were drenched, and my feet were cold and thoroughly soaked. Contemplating the return journey, I yearned for a warm shower. Considering I had to exit the National Park today, staying at a hostel in Thredbo wasn’t an option.
The final 2 kilometers demanded 40 minutes of my time, leaving me utterly fatigued. Exhausted, I hurriedly approached a kid and asked for a photo. I was aware it might not be the best shot, but preserving my camera from the water was my priority. My clothes were drenched, and I lacked any means to wipe off the moisture from my camera.
Swiftly, I descended from the summit within just 5 minutes. I tucked my camera bag beneath my jacket to shield it from the rain. In the moment, I didn’t fully appreciate my accomplishment; my mood was soured by the inclement weather. However, I knew that later, after a rejuvenating shower, I would reflect on this achievement with pride. The hike itself isn’t inherently challenging, but the bone-chilling fog and persistent drizzle elevate the difficulty level exponentially!
The journey back to the ski lift was another 8 kilometers. Just ten minutes in, I cracked open my can of Coke Zero – the taste was pure bliss. Despite my aching legs, I pushed through without taking a break. The clock struck 1 pm, and the descent was imperative. Surpassing three groups of hikers on my way back, I could tell my pace was solid.
The Information Center Staff to the Rescue
By approximately 2 pm, I reached the chairlift top station, feeling the biting cold. Opting to warm up, I headed to the restaurant and took a restroom break. Following that, I descended with the ski lift. Recalling information from my Wikicamps app, I was aware of a shower facility at the information center in Thredbo, conveniently located almost 20 meters from where I had parked my car.
Upon returning to the ground station of the ski lift, I promptly headed to the information center. Inside, I found only a middle-aged woman and a girl of my age behind the counter. Describing my adventurous hike and how I ended up tired and drenched, I inquired about a place to take a shower. They kindly informed me that there was a shower in the building, available for my use. Though I feigned surprise, I was already aware of this courtesy, thanks to the Wikicamps app (truly a lifesaver!). With modesty, I asked if there was a fee, to which they reassured me it was free of charge.
The Best Shower of my Life
I returned to my car, grabbing my clothes, a towel, and my toiletry bag. Carrying everything, I headed back to the information center for a long, warm shower – the best I’ve had in a month! It felt incredible. However, as I turned off the water tap and dried myself with the towel, my legs suddenly started itching intensely. It was an unfamiliar and overpowering sensation, unlike anything I’d experienced before. Perhaps my skin needed time to adjust to warmth after the cold, wet hike. Even my eczema had never triggered such a relentless itch. I scratched my legs vigorously and had to force myself to eventually stop.
Following that, I wore my underwear and retrieved hydrocortisone cream from my bag. Applying the ointment to my legs, I patiently waited for a minute. Thankfully, it began to take effect. The intense itching gradually faded away, providing a welcome relief from the peculiar discomfort I had just experienced.
In just 10 minutes, I got dressed, brushed my teeth, and styled my hair with some gel. I emerged looking clean, fresh, and relaxed—a remarkable transformation. I stepped out of the men’s bathroom and expressed my gratitude once more to the lady at the desk. Following the swift shower, I promptly returned to my car and departed Thredbo. With my coat and camera bag soaked, I turned on the car heater to dry them. The bothersome part? My shoes were also wet, adding an extra layer of discomfort.
Back to Cooma: A Race Against the Library Clock
The intention was to head to Cooma; it was 3 o’clock, and my goal was to charge my laptop at the library. I arrived around 4:10 pm, utilized the time to charge both my laptop and phone, and managed to work on some reports. However, the library closed at 5 pm, forcing me to leave before my laptop and phone were fully charged.
Having that shower was a game-changer, and I genuinely felt rejuvenated. Post-library, I purchased some ice and snacks. Subsequently, I found refuge in a cafe, utilizing their power to ensure my laptop was fully charged. While there, I enjoyed a hamburger and a drink. By around 7 pm, I was all set to depart Cooma and head back to the resting area where I had woken up yesterday morning.
I caught up on some TV shows and hit the hay around midnight. Tomorrow, my plan was to head to the coast, as the gloomy weather was starting to affect my mood. The rain persisted throughout the evening and continued throughout the night.
